David! Thank you so much in explaining the differences. So how can I determine the correct start capacitor for my GE?
1966 General Electric Spacemaker 19 Refrigerator MOD. TCF19DBC P.2
- Thread starter Ultramatic
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David! Thank you so much in explaining the differences. So how can I determine the correct start capacitor for my GE?
Start capacitor
Am I looking at something like this?
<script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Am I looking at something like this?
<script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Reply # 41
Thats a run capacitor.
Thats a run capacitor.
So the run capacitor would be in addition to the start capacitor.
I think we're in business...
Original GE Relay #WR7X85 Type 3ARR12PK125A
(Pick-up current AMPS. 11.6 Drop-out current AMPS. 9.9)<span style="left: 608.16px; top: 841.344px; font-size: 31.36px; font-family: serif; transform: scaleX(1.13308);">
</span>
Cross referenced with MARS 27006 and GEM CR316
[this post was last edited: 8/13/2019-06:59]
Original GE Relay #WR7X85 Type 3ARR12PK125A
(Pick-up current AMPS. 11.6 Drop-out current AMPS. 9.9)<span style="left: 608.16px; top: 841.344px; font-size: 31.36px; font-family: serif; transform: scaleX(1.13308);">
</span>
Cross referenced with MARS 27006 and GEM CR316
[this post was last edited: 8/13/2019-06:59]
The Guardette WR7X83 Type 3ARG1C28 is cross referenced with MARS 35012
On it's way.
[this post was last edited: 8/13/2019-06:56]
https://www.bigcanningstore.com/products/new-mars-35012-motor-overload-protector
Thanks Ken!
This refrigerator never had a run capacitor, so I wouldn't know which one to use or how to install it.
This refrigerator never had a run capacitor, so I wouldn't know which one to use or how to install it.
Run capacitors for older compressors.
You just wire it in across the start winding as David explained, take an amp reading before and after to see if it helps, in most cases it helps even older compressors run cooler and uses less energy.
John L.
You just wire it in across the start winding as David explained, take an amp reading before and after to see if it helps, in most cases it helps even older compressors run cooler and uses less energy.
John L.
Thanks John.
Would a running capacitor help extend the life of the compressor? And what values must the running capacitor have?
[this post was last edited: 8/14/2019-19:58]
Would a running capacitor help extend the life of the compressor? And what values must the running capacitor have?
[this post was last edited: 8/14/2019-19:58]
The GEM CR316 relay has arrived, but the <strong>MARS 35012 overload protector is now "not available". Funny how they take your money and only tell you it's not available after you inquire on the status of the order. I found another source and ordered it. So let's wait some more.
</strong>
350 Series 3/4" motor protectors
HP @ 110/115V: 1/5, 1/4, 1/3
HP @ 208/240V: 1/2
Post #32 is incorrect for my model, disregard.
The correct schematic for my model is post #33, FIG. 10.1
Guardette saga continues...
Had to cancel the last order for the motor overload protector because the model was incorrect. However I did find a direct replacement of ebay (MARS 35012) and ordered that. Let's wait some more.
Had to cancel the last order for the motor overload protector because the model was incorrect. However I did find a direct replacement of ebay (MARS 35012) and ordered that. Let's wait some more.
Well the new Guardette replacement arrived today. Notice the rating for HP. At 110/115 Volts It's good for up to 1/4 HP. This refrigerator is 1/3 HP. After extensive cross referencing, the 35012 was the direct equivalent to the original WRWR7X83 Type 3ARG1C28. I read somewhere that you can not determine the correct overload protector using the HP rating alone.
Huh
So, I never was interested much in fridges and freezers...
But that freezer sure as heck looks verry advanced technology wise, almost like a convection oven, just cold, if you know what I mean...
So, I never was interested much in fridges and freezers...
But that freezer sure as heck looks verry advanced technology wise, almost like a convection oven, just cold, if you know what I mean...
If you are so compelled .....
here is the schematic updated for a start and run cap added to the circuit. I am assuming you said it was a 1/3 hp compressor, but these cap values would be good for 1/4 to 1/3 hp.
The run cap would be:
https://www.speedyapplianceparts.com/frigidaire-5304464438-refrigerator-capacitor-replacement/
The start cap would be:
https://www.mccombssupply.com/packard-ptmj243-motor-start-capacitor-243-292-mfd-uf-220-250-vac/
I would run these part numbers thru ebay and probably will find the best price for these 2 caps.
In simple terms, a Start Capacitor holds an extra charge to get a motor moving. Whereas a Run Capacitor keeps a motor running smooth with no up and down spikes. The run cap also lowers the power factor that is inherent to an AC motor and lowers the "stress" on the motor increasing its overall life. But if a motor did not have a run cap or a start cap in the first place, then the "need" for either almost becomes a moot point. The motor was therefore built well/heavy enough to start/run without either cap. But adding them won't hurt anything. If you get "added life" out of the compressor motor by adding a run and/or start cap would be speculative at best.
I just did this very same thing to a '55 Philco 2-door refrigerator with a 1/3 hp compressor and it has been running nicely for a while now. But I did it because on start-up of the compressor, it had a slight hesitation for the first split second. With the start cap added it has no hesitation whatsoever and actually sounds like it has less of a load or strain at start-up. I added the run cap to lower the power factor .... and with it added, my Kill-a-Watt meter showed that normal run current lowered from 2.1 amps average, to 1.7 amps .... so I left the run cap in the circuit to "maybe" add life to the original '55 compressor. Again can only be a speculative debate, but less current inherently sounds like a good thing for the same amount of work.
Cheers!
BTW, no warranty expressed or implied. lol
Bud - Atlanta[this post was last edited: 8/24/2019-12:23]
here is the schematic updated for a start and run cap added to the circuit. I am assuming you said it was a 1/3 hp compressor, but these cap values would be good for 1/4 to 1/3 hp.
The run cap would be:
https://www.speedyapplianceparts.com/frigidaire-5304464438-refrigerator-capacitor-replacement/
The start cap would be:
https://www.mccombssupply.com/packard-ptmj243-motor-start-capacitor-243-292-mfd-uf-220-250-vac/
I would run these part numbers thru ebay and probably will find the best price for these 2 caps.
In simple terms, a Start Capacitor holds an extra charge to get a motor moving. Whereas a Run Capacitor keeps a motor running smooth with no up and down spikes. The run cap also lowers the power factor that is inherent to an AC motor and lowers the "stress" on the motor increasing its overall life. But if a motor did not have a run cap or a start cap in the first place, then the "need" for either almost becomes a moot point. The motor was therefore built well/heavy enough to start/run without either cap. But adding them won't hurt anything. If you get "added life" out of the compressor motor by adding a run and/or start cap would be speculative at best.
I just did this very same thing to a '55 Philco 2-door refrigerator with a 1/3 hp compressor and it has been running nicely for a while now. But I did it because on start-up of the compressor, it had a slight hesitation for the first split second. With the start cap added it has no hesitation whatsoever and actually sounds like it has less of a load or strain at start-up. I added the run cap to lower the power factor .... and with it added, my Kill-a-Watt meter showed that normal run current lowered from 2.1 amps average, to 1.7 amps .... so I left the run cap in the circuit to "maybe" add life to the original '55 compressor. Again can only be a speculative debate, but less current inherently sounds like a good thing for the same amount of work.
Cheers!
BTW, no warranty expressed or implied. lol
Bud - Atlanta[this post was last edited: 8/24/2019-12:23]
Bud...
Thank you so much for the information and the schematic!
Thank you so much for the information and the schematic!
The original Guardette has both wires attached to the #1 tab. The replacement MARS has one wire at the #1 tab. The other wire at the #3 tab. If I am reading the schematic correctly, the #3 with would plug into the relay. The #1 wire would be connecting to the orange wire coming from the refrigerator cabinet.
[this post was last edited: 8/31/2019-23:19]
This mess.
The original wiring coming off the power cord schematic. I am taking guesses here since what I have doesn't exactly match the schematics I am using.
<script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
[this post was last edited: 8/31/2019-22:59]
The original wiring coming off the power cord schematic. I am taking guesses here since what I have doesn't exactly match the schematics I am using.
<script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
[this post was last edited: 8/31/2019-22:59]
Well it's running and beginning to cool. Amp. draw is a steady 4.9. We'll see in a few hours. Let's hope the third time is the charm.
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