My General Electric Refrigerator/Bottom Mount Freezer. P1

Automatic Washer - The world's coolest Washing Machines, Dryers and Dishwashers

Help Support :

 

 

Hi Jennine. I would imagine the 1965 is the closest to mine if you have it. I now believe mine is a 1968 model. Judging from the amount of bare/broken wiring I found, I'd say this refrigerator has been out of service for many years, which may explain why it's so pristine. So far, every time I put in my model number I have gotten nothing.
 
Hi Louis, Unfortunately, I have not had much luck. Neither of the Americanas have a wiring diagram on the back, nor did the 1965. I did attach pictures from the 1961 manual for model number TC-469V which is top fridge with swing out shelves and bottom freezer, although it may be too old to be similar. These are just the diagrams, there are a few other pages about electrical parts that I can scan for you. I've also attached pictures of the compressor from one of the Americanas, and also of the 1965 Coppertone when we had the back off to blow out the dust before installing it in the house. Not sure if any of this is helpful.

spacepig-2019050511050700972_1.jpg

spacepig-2019050511050700972_2.jpg

spacepig-2019050511050700972_3.jpg

spacepig-2019050511050700972_4.jpg

spacepig-2019050511050700972_5.jpg

spacepig-2019050511050700972_6.png

spacepig-2019050511050700972_7.png
 
Wiring Diagrams For GE FG Hot Gas Defrost Ref

Thanks Jeannine, Your 61 diagram is the one needed except the compressor is the older one that has four terminals instead of three like Louie's, so the wiring between the older style relay and condenser fan motor are different, but that does not matter as Louie is using the newer 3 in 1 relay.

 

John
 
 

 

Some detailed pictures:

 

<script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

 

<script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

 

<script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

 

<script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

 

<script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

 

<script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

 

<script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
 
Maybe onto something....

Louis, it seems that the wiring diagrams are very similar for the defrost and compressor control on most of these. Please see this drawing.

It seems the brown wire is supposed to be the Line side of the power cord, only. It needs to go to the power cord but not be tied together with anything else.

The white (ivory) wire was part of the original 3-wire condenser fan circuit which you will not use. Isolate it.

Remove all the connections in the compressor compartment except the single wire to the defrost coil.

Connect the power cord line side to the Brown wire.

From the Orange wire coming out of the cabinet, connect the following things together:
-Orange wire from cabinet
-One of the Supco power input wires.
-One of the fan motor wires.
-Power cord Neutral side.

From the Black wire coming out of the cabinet, connect the following things together:
-Black wire coming out of the cabinet.
-Remaining Supco power input wire.
-Remaining fan motor wire.
-Remaining Defrost coil wire.

turbokinetic-2019072918092507015_1.jpg
 
Yes, I probably meant to type "live" there. Got a few things going on at same time and typing too fast.

If you have a 3-wire grounded cord, it is the black wire. If it's a two-wire polarized cord, it's the smooth wire, going to the "smaller" pin on the plug.

The Neutral is the White wire on a 3-wire cord; or for a 2-wire cord, the grooved wire, going to the larger pin on the plug.

It won't really matter much on this one because the original cord was non-polarized.
 
One thing I noticed....

... in the pictures you posted; did you remove the insulation from the lower part of the fridge under the rear cover? If that was missing to start with, you need to replace it with more fiberglass padding. If that space is open without insulation there will be a good chance for frost or moisture buildup in there; plus a bad loss of efficiency.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top