My New Boiler is now smaller than my Dryer!

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HOLD THE FREEKIN PHONE!!!

And just where in the double hocky sticks did that charcoal grey 57 set come from?  I do NOT ever remember seeing those in any preivous pictures of any of the wings of your laundry studio.  those got snuck in under the radar screen I do believe.  HUMPH!!!    Venture just a select few knew those landed in your basement!!  The acquisitoin of the 21st century!!  I do not think thsoe were professionally repainted at an autobody shop like Rick has done to some of his beautiful machines.  Me thinks this was simply a ploy to discretely announce to the world these machines reside in your basement all in the disguise of a new boiler, which dooesn't even closely resemble a vintage washer. 
 
One other consideration I have on ever changing out my big old boiler for a newer compact one is that this old one acts like a gigantic heat sink and keeps the basement very toasty warm all winter long. I don't think it wastes heat as it is all convected up the stairs to the rest of the house as well. And checking with neighbors etc who have newer boilers and mid-hi efficiency gas furnaces our gas bill is good, sometimes even less ( I keep the house at a minimum of 72 all winter, don't like it cold)
 
Oh Jon, just think of all the fun you will have filling up the space that oil tank took up!!!  You are going to be nice and toasty all winter long!
 
AWESOME GAS BOILER MISTER!

I re-tweaked mine when the installer left.

The pressure should not exceed 5 psi ever. 3 psi is more than adequate to get steam to the 2nd floor. Test yours to see that steam gets to the further /highest radiator at the lowest possible set pressure.

I also played with the differential (adjustment of a knob within the "pressure-trol" which is the box mounted on a "pigtail"of looped pipe) to reduce the amount of on-off cycles. The control cuts out the boiler at the setting shown in front, (say 3 psi or leas) and will kick it back in based on a differential). I had mine set for 2 lbs., IIRC, so the boiler would again start at 1 psi to build to 3 psi if the thermostat was not yet satisfied.

You may also want to adjust your heat-anticipator in the thermostat.
These are designed to let the boiler run long enough to build up a head of steam but shut off-prematurely (purposely) such that the remaining steam and retained heat in the cast-iron pipes and radiators brings the room to the set temp, and won't over-shoot that temperature.

BTW the steam header and rising should NOT be copper piping within I think at least 6 feet (2 +/- meters/yards) of the boiler itself. It should be threaded cast-tron pipe. The expanding and contracting of the pipe will rip the soldered joint out eventually.

MUCH LUCK WITH IT.

When I replaced my 1946 oil-fired steam boiler (that also generated hot water for the taps by way of a tankless coil) with a new one, my fuel-oil usage wet down by HALF! Install took ONE day and it cost me $4,500 for a Weil-Mclain unit with an Italian-made RIELO burner head. Said to use high pressure to atomize the fuel-oil more finely and burn more cleanly. (less soot and less carbon build-up).

Dying to find that commercial advert on YouTube that says "I've got gas"; super funny double-meaning word-play TOOT-ing (HA HA HA HA ) the benefits of gas heat.
 
BTW what is that device (that I have only seen in Massachusetts) that goes on the boiler room ceiling to cut off ower to the boiler if the room gets too hot (or is it too-hot-too-fast i.e. a "rate of (temperature)rise" sensor.)

Thanks!
 
Steve

 

The box above the boiler is a heat fuse, if there is ever a runaway boiler it will melt and shut off all power to the boiler.

 

You know your steam, did you read "The Art of Steam Heating"? Don't forget the Hartford Loop there! And copper pipe is the reason the old boiler was getting replaced 20 years early, a very bad install in the 70's caused it to run dry too many times. Nothing but iron pipe in my whole house now, the only copper allowed near the boiler is for the feed and the power!

 

I expect to save a lot on energy this year, I am putting in two zones so the tenant can set their own heat finally! I had to crank my thermostat to 69-70 to get a long enough cycle to get heat to the upstairs apartment so I always ended up roasting down here. And I could never use my wood stove as the tenant would freeze. Now I have all my wood stacked and ready and I can start a fire at 5 PM and it will toast up the house to 72 degrees and run till way past bedtime so I won't have to run my side of the boiler unless I am feeling lazy.

 

jetcone++10-15-2011-00-37-46.jpg
 
The thread seems in the right place to me.

Jetcone the basement "additions" look really nice.  The grandparents all had wood burning stoves, so the late folks had a "stairstep" buck stove in the basement as a backup and to save a little money during really cold periods, I am glad the tradition lives on at your home.  There was always something very special about waking up at the folk's home in the winter, the faint smell of a wood fire, fresh coffee brewing, bacon frying.  Thank you for posting the Frigidaires too. alr
 
Mike the boiler is Steam

and is supposed to come in around 86-92% efficient. But the piping overhead will still get toasty hot so the basement will still be warm-warm and dry in the winter especially when the Filtrator Dryer kicks in. Greg wouldn't let me even turn it on this summer!

The dryer that is.

 

alr: what is a stairstep buck stove? is that like a wood burning boiler or furnace for hot air?

 

 

 
 
Don't worry, Robert.  I'll protect you from JC's slaps.  I know they're-a-gonna be coming!

 

Now that the cat's out of the bag, or the charcoal control towers are in your basement, or the boiler's been replaced...

hooverwheelaway++10-15-2011-09-03-20.jpg
 

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