Need manual for Maytag HA806...

[LintTrap]

... or any help fixing my Harvest Gold baby. Without the manual it's hard to even tell you what needs fixing.

At the bottom of the tub, on the back right side, there is a hose that connects to the water level controller, (or whatever it's called). The pipe on the tub is about an inch long and is rusted out. I want to fix that pipe. Can it be done?

Thanks for any info.
Virginia

 

[LintTrap]

Name of the Hose

I found pdf of a parts list with pictures. Awesome. I still don't know what to call the pipe on the back of the tub, but the hose that goes to it is 2-12942, called "air dome and tube".

Can I fix this pipe?

http://https//www.maytag.com/digitalassets/MLPDF/Repair Part List - A806.pdf

 

[LintTrap]

Hmmm... my link didn't go to the parts list, but to find it, go to the Maytag website and search a806 in the "manuals and literature".

 

[kenmore71]

You will likely be able to fix it, depending on how bad the rust is and how determined you are. That "pipe" stub that the air dome attaches to was welded on to the outer tub during manufacture. There are products out there that can seal up that sort of thing but I don't personally have experience with them. Robert (our webmaster) and number of others have experience with this sort of repair.
A parts list will not do you any good other than if you need to replace the air dome itself (part #2-12942). You will need to "improvise" a fix for this problem with various silicone, epoxy or other "miracle" products.

 

[LintTrap]

That's encouraging! Thank you so much for your reply. I'm going to try to upgrade my membership so I can upload a photo of the damaged pipe. I'd like to hear what epoxies you all prefer, or if the hole is a lost cause. Should I start a new tread for that? Thx!

 

[akronman]

Stick with same thread

Welcome to AW.org

 

Stick with the same thread, since you mentioned the exact problem and rust spot right in the first thread and the model number is listed in the title.

 

Some of the experienced pros here will advise the epoxy/sealant/goop to use. I'll keep watching this thread so I can learn.

 

Also, the H in HA806 refers to the color of the washer, you'll have best luck researching using only the A806.

 

Again, welcome to the website, and pictures can help for sure.

Mark

 

[LintTrap]

Photo of damage

H for Harvest Gold... good to know. Thank you, Mark! Hopefully this picture will upload.

As you can see the hole is relatively large. We were messing around with different copper fittings to see if one would either fit inside the pipe, or over the pipe like a sleeve. So far have not found a good fit.

 

[goatfarmer]

I've had some success using a 2 part epoxy, that looks like modeling clay.  It comes in a tube, you break off a piece, and knead it until the color is uniform. Then mold it to the shape needed.

Be sure to clean the area well. and maybe scuff it with steel wool or similar.

 

[LintTrap]

That sounds cool. If it's like clay, maybe it would fill in the gap between the pipe and an inserted coupler...? I wonder if it will make the pipe too narrow inside then and effect the way the machine operates?

There is a 3/32" difference between the I.D. of the pipe and the O.D. of a coupler that fits inside. The reduction of the pipe then goes from 3/4" I.D. to 3/8" I.D. Maybe I need a coupler that goes on the outside instead?

I just realized my photo exceded the max size. Sorry... should I edit?

 

[Unimatic1140]

Can you shoot a photo of the broke hose port that isn't quite such a close up so we can tell where on the outer tub that piece is?

Does a hose attach to this port?

 

[bajaespuma]

Maybe some of these might help:

 

[bajaespuma]

,

 

[bajaespuma]

3

 

[bajaespuma]

5

 

[bajaespuma]

7

 

[bajaespuma]

8

 

[bajaespuma]

10

 

[bajaespuma]

11

 

[bajaespuma]

12

 

[bajaespuma]

13

 

[LintTrap]

The hose port is on the back side of the tub, on the right side. This picture is taken from the access hole on the back of the machine. You can see the side wall.

Thanks for posting the parts manual for a806. The picture of the hose that goes to that pipe is #2-12942, called "air dome and tube". You can see a picture of it on p.12 (or p.654) titled "Water Injection".

 

[gansky1]

If you press around the edges of the oulet-stub nearest the tub, is it solid or beginning to crumble? It appears that you have enough of the stub left to clean up, stop the present rust and clamp on a new air dome hose to. This hose does not move much at all, with the tub while spinning and the stresses are really on the upper parts of the hose. Since it's located in a corner of the machine cabinet, it is very unlikely that it will ever get knocked around in an off-balance load scenario. I would clean the outlet with a small brush to remove any loose rust, coat it with a good rust-inhibitor paint such as POR-15 and then when that's cured, replace the air dome hose with a new one and some RTV Ultra-Blue silicone to seal it and give a little extra holding power. Spread the silicone around the stud before slipping the hose on and then clamp - not over-tight, just enough to hold it firmly in place.

 

[LintTrap]

It is solid. There is about 1/4" of uncorroded stub left. If we use the original hose clamp (and not wide kind with a screw), it might hang on.

In this new photo, can you see how the hole is beveled? The beveling goes farther up than the hole. (I think the repairman did that before he pronounced it dead. He was trying to use a wide hose clamp and said you have to have a special tool to put the old clamp back on...)

If I use the two-part epoxy, should I try and close the gap all the way? Is the dried epoxy brittle enough to break off? Or should I just patch it part way?

 

[Unimatic1140]

It is solid. There is about 1/4" of uncorroded stub left. If we use the original hose clamp (and not wide kind with a screw), it might hang on.

That is exactly what I would do, except I would put a bead of Permatex Ultra-Blue silicone (found at Ace Hardware) around the uncorroded section of the stub and tighten the clamp only with a small amount of pressure. Let the silicone dry for 24 hours before testing.