"New" GE Filter Flo owner here :) Questions and strange noises . . .

[RWIndiana]

On this one you can see the grease splattered on the wall of the cabinet. Seems like a lot of grease all over the place. Yet, right now, everything is running fine. I wonder how long it was like this, and how the floor underneath it looked before I got it! It hasn't made a mess on my floor yet.

 

[RWIndiana]

So I guess I'd better be looking for a new tranny? Who knows how long this one will last.

 

[RWIndiana]

Forgot to mention, you can also see the damage to the belt in these photos.

 

[cfz2882]

tranny seal

yep,tranny seal is damaged and belt has been ruined by the oil.Leaky lower seal is a very common filterflo problem-it is caused by metal particles and filings that filterflo transmissions normally generate over years of use collecting atop and wearing on the input shaft seal.Transmission change super easy on a filterflo though.The belt groove on the two-speed clutch is aluminum and wears like mad if the belt has been slipping.

 

[RWIndiana]

Thanks for the info. Any ideas what I might be spending on a new transmission, or where I can get one (along with a belt)?

 

[goatfarmer]

It's also possible the transmission is taking on water internally, forcing the grease out. Either way, not good.

 

Best way is to find another washer with a good trans. GE's of that era are starting to rust through the outer tubs, so the trans is still good.

 

[tecnopolis]

I would try using some degreaser like simple green and get all of that built up gunk out of there to see what's really going on. This way you can see if there is any fresh evidence of oil being blown around. 

Maybe the grease was there from a prior breakdown and the person that fixed it didn't bother to clean it up? 

 

 

[redcarpetdrew]

It's also possible to replace the lower seal and change out the oil. If the trans is in otherwise good shape, I've done this. Pull the trans, flip it upside down (either hold it by securing the agitation shaft in a bench vise or use a jig made from a piece of plywood with a hole cut in it so that the trans case sits nice and pretty in it...), then access the lower cover. The shaft seals used to be pretty easy to find and put in.

Just an idea...

RCD

 

[tecnopolis]

.GE doesn't make it easy to see, but the solenoid is behind the motor, pointing towards the center of the machine.  

Follow those 2 wires branching off of the maim motor wiring harness back to it.

The noise I heard when mine was acting up was like someone rapping on an empty coffee can. Click, click, click.

 

[arbilab]

Done is done and works when works. But I would love to have been a fly on the wall at the engineering meeting where they decided that was a better way to do 2 speeds than a motor with 2 windings.

All that mecha AND the vulnerability of the customer changing speeds while running.

 

[tecnopolis]

I like my one-speed better in the sense that it is quieter than the 2-speed. Less to go wrong and yes, the repair guide warns NOT to change speeds while the motor is running. I guess it was too costly to put an interlock on the switch once the motor is activated to prevent it.  

 

 

 

[akronman]

2 speeds, 2 sets of windings

....would have been easier, but GE wanted to filter and pump well regardless of agitaton and spin speed, and they accomplished it with this contraption. Many other brands have anemic recirculation filtering at low speeds, and poor pumping ability, either slow pumpout or it won't lift the water very high for unique drainage applications. Only with the Filter-Flo can you get excellent filtering and high speed pumping even if your cycle is all delicate and gentle. It has its advantages.

 

[combo52]

GE FF Washers With a 2 Speed Clutch Instead Of a 2 Speed Mot

Mark is correct as to why GE had these stupid and troublesome 2,3,4 and variable speed clutches in their washers instead a multi-speed motor. The irony is that GE is one of the woulds biggest electric motor makers, and every other washer maker made great performing washers without these clutches. The higher speed of the motor really wasn't necessary for good washer performance, in fact Frigidaire 1-18 washers always started their spin cycle on the low speed of the motor, and even had a smaller drain hose and always worked fine [ they did this to reduce the amount of dirty water that can be thrown back over the wash tub and threw the clothing as the machine goes into the spin&drain cycle. which turns the clean clothing into a dirt and lint filter ].

 

As I have said before you can change the speed selector on a GE FF washer back and forth from Hi to low and low to Hi while the motor is running all you want without harm to the clutch and I invite any of you to come do this on any of my GE FF washers.

 

[arbilab]

Thanks for your perspectives gentlemen. I have very little hands-on with GE. I replaced a pump coupler once in 1981.

I understand the desire to have the pump run at full speed, but it would have made more mechanical and economic sense to put the gearbox/clutch on the pump where the load is light than on the main drive. Or just let the pump choke some on high, there is little deficit to doing that.

I have also owned 2-speed Maytags which don't seem to suffer overtly from running the pump at lower motor speed.

 

[redcarpetdrew]

It must just be me...

I've actually knocked the shifter arm off on.a GE clutch. Bent a couple as well. After a few service calls, I've learned that customers are better at it than I am...

RCD

 

[yogitunes]

Been there.....Done that.........while at John's, I had the chance to play with his filterflo, at first was a little worried about shifting speeds while running.....but guess what?...you can!.....the speed won't change from fast to slow while running, but the switch can be flipped back and forth with NO issues.....actually the fingers that are held by the solenoid, retract while the machine is running at high speed.....so no damage could occur while running......

probably the most damage that may occur is when trying to shift speeds, the operator will shut the machine off, flip the switch, and turn back on, not allowing enough time for the clutch to slow down to a stop before restarting the machine.....

 

[RWIndiana]

Thanks for all the conversation guys! It's all very fascinating for a newb like me.

I think I am going to go ahead and take the transmission apart and see what's going on in there. I noticed a drop of oil on the floor today, but it looked clean (me confused) unlike the black splatters. Question is, what type of oil should it be packed with to replace whatever has been lost?

 

[tecnopolis]

I am going to go ahead and take the transmission apart and s

You're on your own with that, I will defer to other experienced members who are better versed in a transbottomy's than I. 

It's not something I've had a chance to do, and dreading the day I have to. That gear oil has a very nasty smell and it can only get worse with prolonged exposure.

 

[RWIndiana]

Didn't mind the smell of the oil too much! Although I was told just today that I am "different" for enjoying a project like this. The story isn't over yet, but I think I'm seeing the light. Unless the pulley seal on the transmission is supposed to be thinner on one side than the other, it's definitely worn, and didn't seem real tight at all around the pulley watchamacallit. I have no idea how to actually get the seal out. Is that thing glued in there? Got some 80w90 oil to replace what was lost (found a thread on here linking to a page that recommended that). There was about an inch of oil left on the bottom. Should I fill it up? That will take a couple of quarts! I dumped the old oil so I can start fresh.
Hmm, can't remember if there's any other info I should share. The number on the seal is 717B328, and also says "nok" on it. On the inside, it says "made in Singapore". No idea where to find one of these, but I guess I will start looking.
Now some pics:

 

[RWIndiana]

The gears look alright to me. There were metal grounds down in the seal which I cleaned out, but nothing substantial. I think my original agitator problem was simply the oil covered belt slipping.