Agitator Came Off
Eddie,
That's good. The shaft and stem seal don't look to bad from what I can see. Some WD-40 and a toothbrush would clean the shaft and seal up pretty well. Get a bunch of old rags and put around the bottom of the basket, so the WD-40 won't run down in the outer tub. Spray a little WD on there and brush it with the toothbrush.
Hold a rag around the stem seal to catch the run-off. Just do a quarter at a time so the run-off doesn't get away from you. Clean the retaining washer and spring (under the splined part of the shaft). Don't try and move the retaining spring and washer, just clean the area. Clean the rubber stop ring, between the spline and the top of the stem seal. It should turn on the shaft with a little bit of resistance. I put a new stop ring in mine when I got it, but your old one is probably fine. After the whole stem and shaft are cleaned, wipe everything down. Give the basket a good cleaning while the agitator is out.
Now give the agitator a good cleaning, especially the underside. Clean out the splined hole with a degreaser or the WD-40 again. Use the toothbrush to scrub inside the hole. Wash it all down and dry it. Twist up the corner of a rag and stuff it down in the hole to dry it. You can use a screwdriver, but be careful. You don't want to damage the splines or the stop ring seat.
Then lubricate the shaft, stop ring, and top of the stem seal, where the washer and retaining spring is. I think I even greased the spanner nut, in case it has to come off someday. I don't know if it will do any good or not. I'm not sure how big the air bubble underneath the agitator is. It protects the parts. I'm sure you've figured that out by now. Put some grease up in the splined hole before you put the agitator back on. I think I've heard of people using Vaseline for grease. I used Poly-lube. The Maytag store here had a jar of it, so I used it for several things. I don't know if it's necessary or not, but I oriented the stop ring in a certain way before I replaced the agitator. Maybe someone on here with more knowledge than I can answer this question.
There are high and low spots on the stop ring. I lined up one of the high spots on the ring with one of the high spots on the shaft. That makes every other spot on the ring NOT line up with the shaft. I suppose this makes the agitator seal and the ring pop into it's seat when the agitator is pushed down. There's nothing in the service manuals I have about this. If someone has the answer to this, please comment.
After you've done these things you can polish up the agitator and the inside of the basket with some Pledge, turn your tub light on and get some really knock-out pictures.
Sometime when you have the front panel off again, take a picture of the tub bearing and post it on here. It's between the bottom of the tub and the transmission. By looking at the rest of the machine, I'm willing to bet you have the old style tub bearing. If you do, it can be oiled very easily, without having to take the whole machine apart. And it sure helps it spin. You can find the spot under the machine by spinning the transmission until the trans. and the counter-weight are out of the way and then you'll have good access to the bearing. If you can get a hold of a hypodermic syringe (about 3cc's) and a large bore needle (maybe a 14, not sure), you can inject the bearing with 3 to 5cc's of turbine oil and when you pull out the needle the hole seals up. The rubber goes back together because the needle's not that big. The wicking inside the bearing soaks up the oil and when you put it into spin the bearing sucks up that oil and you've added years of life to your machine.
Well, I've gone and told you way more than you asked for. Sorry. Start checking the old threads. You can find a lot of good info in there. Have fun.
Brian