Patience has its rewards: 1940's Bendix Washer

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Those machines . . .

. . . are great. I have a 1944 diving bell model that must run on EverReady batteries -- it just keeps going and going and going . . .

You're gonna love it. The mechanism is so simple and gets the job done.

Don't forget to pour HOT water in so the seals will expand before using it.

Jerry Gay
 
Here are some pics i took of the machine when i went to a museum!

Scroll down.


aquarius8000++10-17-2011-12-03-22.jpg
 
bolting it down . . .

. . . can be a problem. If you want to give it a whirl, you or one of your burly friends could sit on it when it gets to the spin cycle. That's the only time it would try to walk. And if there's nothing in it, it won't walk.

Good luck.

Jerry Gay
 
Well I guess I could set it up in the courtyard outside and plumb it for cold water only (after adding hot from a watering can to soften the seals etc) just to see if it all works as it should. I'd just hate to see it take a leap and hurt itself.
 
The door gasket on this washer is bisque in color and quite hard.

I found a replacement door gasket on eBay. It's in the process of shipping. It's used but said to be in "good" condition. It's also black in color, not bisque. We'll see!
 
Congratulations!

I guess the old adage 'good things come to those who wait' is true!   What a great find and how nice that the seller thought to contact you after all that time.  It was meant for you - enjoy it and have fun with it!!
 
Thanks.

It's interesting to read that the service and owner's manual recommend that the incoming water be as high as 165F. I doubt that most homeowners keep their water that hot these days - but it is a good temp for sanitizing laundry, and something that most modern washers with internal water heaters can do more economically.

It's also very interesting that the owner's manual goes into far more detail about the technical aspects of laundering than do most modern washer owner's manuals. There's a good deal of discussion about the appearance of properly "lively" soap suds, as well as a detailed discussion of the pros and cons of various water softeners - with complex phosphates like STPP (in the Calgon of the day) specifically mentioned. The washer also has a proper soak cycle - with a drain after the soak, so that the soak water/dirt/soap can be eliminated before the wash cycle starts. And there is a discussion that long, overnight soak periods may impair laundering efficiency, as dirt can redeposit on the fibers during the long soak, and that the 10 minute soak cycle of the Bendix is superior in that aspect.
 
Door gasket arrived today. It's in much better condition that I thought it would be. Like unused, although the seller said it was pulled off a low use machine.

 

Now the tricky part may be getting the old, very hard gasket off the machine. I'd like to do it preserving its form, just in case, but that might be impossible.

 
 
First test run

Rolled the Bendix out to the courtyard (I have it installed on top of a furniture dolly) and filled the tub with hot water by hand. It immediately started to leak out of the bottom of the machine. Just for fun, plugged it in, and it went through all the cycles OK, at least with manual turning of the timer: soak, drain/spin, wash, drain spin, rinse, drain/spin.

Then I set about pulling off all the external panels to find the leak. Turned out to be the short 1" ID rubber hose (about 5" long) running from the bottom of the tub to the water pump. Found a replacement at the auto shop (a small hose section preformed with the appropriate 45 degree angle). That fixed that leak. Then I noticed that the coin trap gasket was also leaking. No surprise there; it's heavily cracked. Found a toilet part gasket that I was able to carve into a shape that fits OK. Fixed that leak. Door gasket dripping a bit while tumbling; have a replacement gasket for that but am waiting a bit before I install that. I'd like to try to save the original door gasket; might try painting it with brake fluid to see if it can soften up and swell a bit.

Other findings: The timer motor must be seized, because it doesn't advance on its own. The cold water inlet valve seems to work ok, but I don't think the hot water valve is working. The screens before the valves were heavily encrusted so I simply yanked those. Will replace them with new screens later. The drain connection from the pump to the back of the machine (a short length of hose with a 90 degree metal bend, like some washer hoses, and a hose thread on each end (F/M) is leaking where it rubs against the chassis. Another easy enough fix.

The rubber connector between the top of the outer tub and soap dispenser is sort of shot. It still fits but it would probably be best to replace it. Might have to find some sort of huge industrial rubber hose for that.

So the work to do: fix the timer motor; fix the hot water inlet valve; fix the drain pump outlet connecting hose; fix the soap dispenser connector. And, of course, clean the inside of the machine and have the panels sanded, de-rusted, and painted appliance white. The porcelain top is in relatively good condition with some light scratches, and the timer dial looks intact if a bit in need of cleaning.

The drive belt is in surprisingly good shape; can still read the "Bendix Home Appliances" logo and the part number on it. But probably wouldn't hurt to replace that as well.

The wiring looks to be intact and in good shape, but I was a bit alarmed to see that a hot wire connection is exposed at the timer very close to the back of the outer tub. Since the power cord is not polarized, that could be hot or neutral. When I service the timer I'll look into putting in some extra insulation in that spot, as well as rewiring the power cord to a three wire grounded one.

I took photos and even a video of the machine running; will try to upload those here later.

It's a project, but can be fully restored, I think.
 
Anybody have any advice on the best way to get the timer going again?

Obviously I'll need to remove it from the machine - taking lots of pics because there are many wires going into it. Fortunately there's a wiring diagram under the washer top and there's also the service manual.

But if it's the motor that has stopped, it might just be out of lube, and a little high quality lubricant might free it up, I suppose. Like an old electric clock?

I wonder if there's any new old stock timer motors, or substitutes that could be used.
 
It sounds like you're right on track to getting this beauty running automatically again. The water valve is pretty straightforward, looks like the hosing is going well and that leaves the timer...

I would start by removing it from the machine, taking off the timer motor and checking to see if that runs when it's off the timer. If so, you're good to go there. Replacements can be found, but it can be challenging. It could be that the escapement just needs a bit of cleaning and light lubrication.

The replacement gasket (spud) looks like a brilliant solution!
 

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