Presenting the In-Sink-Erator Classic Supreme Dishwasher

[magic clean]

Ralph if I recall;

after a full fill, the pool of water in the sump should be up to the rim of or over the top of the fine filter under the hydrosweep. Perhaps someone can confirm with their KD-21 or 22 machine.

Knowing this, you'll have a good idea if you have a water level concern. Also, check the upper rack manifold (the soft rubber tube) that delivers the water to upper wash arm support. Sometimes it can become sticky,distorted or gummy reducing the free flow of water. (note the small weep hole should point down) Try to tilt concave bottomed mugs so as to reduce the amount of water that remains after the machine drains. This will minimize any grit that can collect.

all the best...LP

 

[appnut]

Ralph has always wanted a John Wayne Brand dishwaher,  one with True Grit

 

[rp2813]

Oh yeah Bob, this machine has true grit compared to the Thermador. 

 

What's weird is that as thorough as the drying was with the Thermador, I'd always get water dripping down the inside of the glass coffee carafe from the neck after unloading it from the machine.  With the ISE's use of forced air drying, I get a bit of water remaining in some of the cup bottoms, but no more drips inside the carafe.

 

I'll check water level after filling is through next time I run the machine.

 

Meanwhile, this is the second week I'm running an ad on CL for the Thermador.  I've reduced the price but after three interested parties last week (none of whom panned out) I've not had any responses this week.

 

I'm going to twist Nate's arm to evict the Frigidaire and put the TT in its place.  If I'm not successful with that, I'll drop the machine off at the Re-Store.

 

[rp2813]

Fill Levels

I checked water levels for wash and purge per advice posted above.

 

For purge, the fill is so short -- I'd be surprised if it's much more than 15 seconds -- and the water level is barely 1/2" deep in the sump area.  My KUDI-21 had a longer fill time for purge and I could hear water being shot out of the wash arm.  I don't think the Supreme is filling with enough water to execute an effective purge and definitely not enough to send through the wash arm.

 

For wash/rinse the level is about 1/2" below the filter rim.

 

I think I need to remove the inlet's restrictor, no?

 

[toploader55]

Hi Ralph

I'm sure your fill solenoid has a Line Strainer. That was the only thing wrong on the Regency and the KDS 55 I got about 4 years ago was a dirty filthy line strainer in the Fill Solenoid.

The complaint on both Machines when I picked them up was "They just don't clean well anymore." You can always (which I'm sure you have) is at the start, Keep the door ajar, Overide the door safety, Latch the door, and hit a cycle button to start. Then you can visually check the flow pressure into the machine. Just my 2 cents. Eddie

 

[magic clean]

Yup

it sounds like there is not enough water. I confirmed that the full fill level at least should be to the top edge of the filter screen and can reach as high so as to completely cover the screen.

As stated, there probably is sediment in the inlet valve screen or perhaps a new valve is in order.

 

[rp2813]

Thanks guys.  I was fairly sure there would be an issue with water supply.

 

This machine enjoyed the sweet life of Hetch Hetchy water direct from Yosemite, probably one of the finest drinking water supplies in the nation, if not the world, before it landed in my kitchen.  While sediment could be the problem, I'm thinking water pressure could be the bigger factor.  I will check for sediment and if I don't find much, I will remove the restrictor while I'm at it.  These old galvanized pipes will generate sediment for sure, so removing the restrictor makes a lot of sense.

 

[stevet]

Don't blame me...

just be sure to never open and close the door and press the cycle button to start the machine in rapid succession or else you will blow water out the door. I take no responsibility for damaged flooring!

Let us know how it turns out.
BTW, how high does the water get when it finishes filling for the wash portions of the cycles? If that is fine then it would be the short purge fills you claim to have. Maybe all you hear is the purge running for 15 seconds and because of low pressure, you never hear the water going in.

Can you run a new copper line from the HW heater to the sink area? That way you would have better pressure and less sediment as well.

 

[rp2813]

Steve, the level after a wash/rinse fill is about 1/2" below the top of the filter screen and I'd say 5/8" to 3/4" below the flat plate at the bottom of the wash arm assembly.

 

I've just encountered a new problem.  The rinse/hold button has stopped working.  I may have to trade out control panels.

 

[combo52]

KA DW WATER FILL ISSUES

Ralph try to see if you can draw two gallons of hot water from your kitchen faucet in one minute, if you can your old water pipes are not the problem. If this test fails also try this test with the faucet aerator and restrictor plate removed from your faucet. You can check the inlet valve screen if you wish but unless it is packed solid it is not the problem, usually the DW inlet screen, is one of the last things to clog in a home plumbing system. Most sediment falls to the bottom of water heaters, one possible exception is when the white plastic dip tube in the water heater fails you will see little bits of white plastic residue in the inlet screen, but buy the time this happens every strainer and shower head and the washer will have clogged as the DW doesn't use nearly as much water as these other things in most homes.

 

[rp2813]

Thanks John, I will try what you've suggested.  I have a pull-out style sink faucet so will disconnect the head from it and fill the container straight from the hose.  From my own casual observance over the years, I really doubt I'm going to get two gallons in one minute but the supply line to the dishwasher is a much larger diameter than the faucet hose so it may deliver more gallons per minute.

 

Also, the Rinse/Hold issue has changed.  It appears that there's something related to whatever drives the "clean" indicator light.  Tonight, since Rinse/Hold didn't seem to be an option, I selected Light wash.  Nothing happened after pushing that button, except that the "clean" light lit up.  I opened the door and closed it, re-selected Light and the clean light lit again, but the RAT also started to click forward.  I immediately unlatched the door to stop the process (I'm still not used to having a Cancel button), latched it again, selected Rinse/Hold and it went right into operation.  Weird.  I may need to take the timer from the other ISE, not the control module.

 

[appnut]

Ralp;h, did you leave the machine latcheed and let it thoroughly complete the R&H cycle?  Sounds like you unlateched the door too soon before the timer could completely reset itself after a R&H. 

 

[rp2813]

Bob, yes, the machine probably went through the night before the door was opened, however . . .

 

The R/H button is hard to push, and it doesn't pop out completely when the door is unlatched or cancel button is depressed.  I think the selector module itself needs a cleaning.  There was a thread containing that procedure recently.  I may change out both timer and selector module with my other ISE machine if this continues to be a problem.

 

[toploader55]

Hey Ralph

I remember my KDS 19 on Light Wash would Rapid advance to the portion of the timer that it wanted to run.

 

[combo52]

ISE DW CYCLE BUTTONS [ AND KA ]

All the buttons must pop out completely for the machine to function properly, you may need to lubricate the cycle selector switch. Also when you use the cancel setting it may take as long as two minutes after every thing has stopped before you can select another cycle, with the door closed and latched. This is why WP had the WAIT light on some rapid advance timer models, as this issue was generating expensive warranty calls from impatient customers.

 

[rp2813]

The issue is definitely related to buttons not popping out fully.  I have to pull out the "cancel" button in order to have the timer re-set itself.  I'll be changing out the entire control panel and timer with my spare machine that doesn't seem to have the button issues.

 

Today I pulled the machine to tend to the leak and remove the fill inlet restrictor.

 

The source of the leak was unexpected, yet easily seen with the insulation lifted.  The screw holding the rear roller for the upper rack had broken off inside the plastic piece that the roller attaches to, and everything was loose.  Water was escaping through the opening created by the loose screw, and running down the side.  Judging from the white streaks down the side, this had been going on for a while before I got the machine.  I traded out the roller assembly with one from the spare machine and the leak is fixed.

 

I also pulled the restrictor from the fill valve.  The screen had a rusty film over it, but no big sediment particles.  Now the machine fills (and sounds) as though a garden hose is aimed into it full blast.  I've turned the supply valve way down so the machine just fills before wash action starts.  The fill for purge is still ridiculously short, so there is no bonus rinse action during purge.  I know the purge gets a partial fill, but the timer is only allowing maybe ten seconds of fill time.  I know the purge fill on my KDI21 was longer than that.  Perhaps switching out the timer will change things.

 

 

 

 

[rp2813]

Selector Module

I changed out the selector module with my spare machine and lubed both of them while I had them off their respective machines.  Buttons are working fine now on both, but I stuck with the plan and installed the selector from the spare machine.  It functions just a bit more smoothly than the one that had been on there.

 

Looks like the machine is now ready to provide me with high performance over the long term.  Yay!