Range Clock & Rotisserie motor Lube?

[ken]

So what would be best lube to use to lube the clock and rotisserie motor in my 67 GE? Both work fine but it would be a safe bet both are running on the original lube job. Would the 3-in-1 in the blue bottle be acceptable? I have that.

And as I believe I've read here I should heat them with a light bulb and place a drop on the stem and let it be drawn in? What wattage bulb and heat for how long? How much oil?

 

[rp2813]

Does the clock use a Telechron rotor?  If so, then the blue 3-in-1 is correct.  I think a 60 watt bulb is sufficient.   Balance the rotor as level as possible with its small end on the bulb so the pinion gear is accessible on top, and turn on the light.  Give it 30-60 minutes, then shut the bulb off and start adding oil on the pinion gear by the drop or two and wait for it to get sucked inside the housing before adding more.  If the rotor hasn't been raspy or otherwise noisy, I would stop short of ten drops.

 

I'm not familiar with the rotisserie motor so can't advise on that one.

 

[sel8207]

might this work

Might this work for a 57 g.e. liberator clock that doesn't work at all, I mean in terms of getting it to start working again? les.

 

[rp2813]

Might this work for a 57 g.e. liberator clock

It's a safe bet that it will.  GE and Telechron were interchangeable brands for clocks for a few decades.  Your Liberator likely uses a Telechron movement.  If the rotor looks like this one (even if the casing isn't copper), the method above can be used.

 

 

[kb0nes]

I'd probably use TriFlow, somehow 20 weight oil seems awful heavy for a clock motor. I use TriFlow (get a dropper bottle!) on all my bicycles and precision tools and it really performs well. Never been fond of any of the 3 in 1 products, they always seem to gum things up for me.

In any case a small drop of lube is better then none. If they are running fine now I can't see any need to heat them up.

 

[ken]

That's what mine looks like. So the oil will draw in without heating? I thought the reason behind heating was to increase clearance so it would be easier for the oil to enter?

 

[customline]

I used this............

On my "57 Hotpoint oven rotisserie motor I coated the gears with Anti-Seize that you can buy at any auto parts store. The clock motor gears get a coating of some space age spray lube that I found at the hardware store. A lot of heat gets built up in that top cavity where all the electronics and wiring are.

 

[rp2813]

Phil is correct with his suggestion about if it ain't broke, don't fix it.  If the rotor is running quietly, it doesn't need oiling.  If you add oil to a rotor that doesn't need any, it can possibly bog down the rotor and cause it to run slowly. 

 

The main reason you shut off the bulb is because heat makes things expand.  As things contract during the cooling process after the bulb is off, it allows the small well around the pinion gear to suck in the oil.  At least that's the theory as I understand it.  Some rotors will suck the oil in quickly, others not so fast.  This heating process works best on copper clad rotors, but I've had success with aluminum ones as well.

 

The other reason to turn the bulb off is plain and simple -- so you're not blinded while you're applying the drops of oil.

 

On the Telechron collectors' site, 3-in-1 in the blue bottle is what the experts there recommend.   I think it's necessary to take into account the heat that's generated as the rotor operates, which I presume makes the blue 3-in-1 the preferred lube.  I have clocks with bulb-treated rotors running in my unheated garage, and lately we have had temps down near freezing overnight.  Those clocks are still keeping perfect time, as they have been for a few years since I repaired their rotors.  As the Telechron ad copy used to state about their clocks, they can't run wrong.

 

 

 

[kb0nes]

Ralph,

My point wasn't to not add a little oil, the poor thing is nearly 50 years old, a drop or two is probably a good idea!

What I was trying to convey is that seeing as how the thing runs, it won't take any hysterics to get a little lube in the bushings. If things were gummed up and stuck then maybe heat might help.

As for the idea of 50 or 100 degrees making a difference in the dimensional tolerances in the parts, no that's not it. It will make the applied oil less viscous so yes it will wick better. I still think 20 weight is a bit thick for a clock motor, these things are slow and have precious little loading.

Seeing as how Ken's clocks are still running, adding a little anything will likely make them happy for a long time. Strikes me as a perfect is the enemy of the very good kinda deal.

 

[ken]

Here's some good info I found.

In checking further online I found a discussion forum with discussion recommending cleaning the old lube out first as it turns to sludge over time. They discuss creating a small hole in the top of the case by first grinding down the peak of the "nub" (of the three) opposite the drive pinion. Then use a small sharp punch or a small sharpened nail. Someone else mentioned using a small drill to make a hole anywhere in the top of the case. But you have to be careful as you don't want any drill shavings getting into the case. One guy mentioned using synthetic oil of wintergreen to break up the old sludge as that's not as harsh on the internals as a strong solvent might be. He uses a syringe to flush out the old oil. Relube with a PTFE based high-speed electric motor oil (1.5-2 cc). Seal the hole with solder or epoxy and restore the "nub" to its original height. [this post was last edited: 12/29/2015-20:43]

Telechron Electric Clock Repair Tips

Repair information for Telechron/G.E. electric clocks, especially motor rotor relubrication.

www.siber-sonic.com

 

[rp2813]

Ken,

 

I'm familiar with that procedure as well.  It's for extreme cases involving rotors that are not running and do not respond to the bulb treatment.  It's always best to avoid drilling if the rotor is still good and the clock keeps time (like yours) but may need oil topped off.

 

[ken]

I don't plan on drilling a hole in mine. But I can see how getting the old oil out would be good and that would be the easiest if not only way.

 

[pulltostart]

Examples of Nationals

Here are some images showing the progression of the National Homes line from about 1950 through 1957.  The first two are classic pre-1953 products; fairly straightforward four-square housing.  The third and fourth images are 1953 models.  The one with the carport was popular and featured the living room on the rear of the house for the first time, the other was a very classic ad and credits Beatrice West (New York color designer) with influencing the look of the house.  The fifth image is from the 1954 model year and includes credit to Charles Goodman's influence.  The sixth image is a larger, clearer one of the 1955 "Fleetwood" model - pure Goodman.  The seventh ad features several models from the 1956 model year (including the optional fully-featured Frigidaire built-in kitchen and the General Electric combination washer/dryer).  The largest image was of a home that was covered extensively in the April 1956 issue of House Beautiful.  The last image is a totally custom house built in 1957 using National's wall components.  The point being that almost any home could be constructed through National Homes.  This particular home was the home of James Price, President of National Homes Corporation and was featured in the May 1957 House Beautiful.

 

I have several of these ads and "one day" would love to have them framed and displayed.  One day....

 

lawrence

 

[rp2813]

Yeah Ken, I had to drill a couple of gummed up rotors and flush them out.  I used a manual drill and went about it very slowly.  The hole was just barely big enough to get one of those red tips for spray cans to fit over it (not through it).  I had some carburetor cleaner on hand, so that's what I used.  I gave the rotors some good shaking and when I let it drain back out of the hole, the fluid mixture was black. 

 

I repeated the process a time or two, then followed up with WD-40, drained that, then added the 3-in-1.

 

Both rotors are still operational a few years later, one on a garage clock and one in the dining room.  To patch the holes I used a small amount of that "miracle" putty material that heats up as you knead it in your fingers.  I first tried a tiny square of foil tape, but that stuff can lose its adhesion if any oil at all makes contact with it.

 

Just FYI for future reference.

 

[sudsmaster]

How cool.

 

Anybody remember when trepanning was all the rage? People used to swear by drilling holes in their heads (not kidding). They claimed all sorts of beneficial effects.

 

I don't think they were squiring oil of wintergreen or 3-in-1 oil in their noggins.

 

But you never know. I would lump those individuals into the same general category as those who split their tongues so they look more like snakes.

 

I wouldn't mind trepanning one of those Kit Kat Klocks, though. They totally creep me out!

 

 

[davetranter]

Trepanning

I recall the 'Hole in Head' brigade. I think it was more popular in Continental Europe. We tended to be a bit 'conservative' here in the U.K.

I think the idea was to open up the fontanelles as a sort of 'rejuvenation', following the 'Children have open fontanelles and don't have any worries, so let's drill holes in our heads and be like children' logic..... Weird!!

All best

Dave T