Reality check again please: Your home heating costs

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<blockquote>appnut said: I got my bill today. $100.64 for 677 kwh</blockquote>Dayum. That's $0.14866/KWH.

No bill here yet. IIRC, the last was 'tween 9 and 10 cents, or 10 and 11.

Whoa. I just figured the theater's last bill. $779.69 less $58.35 sales tax (commercial accts are charged sales tax, residential are not) and $14.14 city franchise fee. So that's $707.20 effective power cost. 12,600 KWH used. $0.056127/KWH. I had no idea.
 
To paraphrase Togs, "amazes how cheap people's utility bills are compared to my area". something like that. Yeah, in Texas, we pay more for natural gas and electricity than many places because we deliver at a cheaper price there than inside our own state.
 
We have the higest energy costs here in the state..Mind you i don't have gas or anything...
I would have loved a gas furnace and water heater, however due to the placement of these items (the furnace is above a bedroom the other is in a closet adjacent to the bathroom) i felt it wasn't the safest if either decided to produce co2....

Plus it would have been LP gas not Nat. Gas (we don't have natural gas here and not that kinda gas either BOYS!)

But now i think that could have been abaited by simply putting in fire proof sheet rock and by putting the water heater someplace else..Or installing several c0 dedctors
 
All i know is that its 72 in my office area and the heat pump is cranked wide open to 80 to mantian a 70 degree temp..I don't think my house is insulated
 
Its now 74 in my office..Sitting here in Shorts and T-shirt..If i go out tot he other part of my house, i need to put on my cloths
 
Read and weep with me. I just received my bill dated 12/01 from Washington Gas. My bill for October was $32.56. For November, I used 56 cubic feet of gas equalling 57.5 therms for a grand total of $103.31 meaning that with the supply and distribution charges, I am paying $1.84 per cubic foot of gas. You would think at that price the stuff would smell like roses, but it does not. The main part of the house is heated by an efficient gas condensing furnace and the glass block room is heated with a hot water baseboard system that will work without electricity, if that is necessary. I am comfortably warm with the thermostat at 68. I could not get by without the little electric heater in the bathroom. It is so nice in the morning to be warm while showering and drying off.

Pete, Do you have any carpeted floors with your baseboard hydronic system? If so, check to make sure that there is space between the carpet pile and the bottom of the baseboard hydronic units. If air can't flow through, heat does not come out. And for your rooms with the cathedral ceilings, you do not have to worry about getting a ceiling fan up to distribute the heat that rises to the ceiling. All you need is a Vornado fan on the floor in each room angled up so that it blows from the floor to the ceiling as the air crosses the room. The fan will mix the air perfectly.

About your basement: Do you realize that your boiler is taking the warmest air in your house for combustion and then sending it up the flue? If there are extended periods of time when you are not down there and have a manifold system with distribution valves for the hot water, you might want to turn off the heat downstairs when you are not down there to enjoy it so that the colder air near the floor on the next level will fall downstairs and be used for the boiler's air supply. If the heat down there is just waste heat escaping from the boiler, you might not be able to do anything about it.
 
exploder321, if your thermostat is set at 80°F and the room temp is 70°F to 72°F, then your auxiliary would have to be running and it oughta be able to get closer to 80°F unless the system is quite a lot undersized. My house is 2,550 sq ft. My heat pump is a 5-ton (60,000 BTU) unit. The outdoor temp right now is 42°F which may be higher than what you've got. My thermostat is set at 70°F. The system is cycling on and off, holding 70°F without the slightest strain. It can hold 70°F and cycle on/off even with an outdoor temp of 34°F, without using the auxiliary.

Maybe your filters are clogged.
 
Just poked at the filter.. Like new... The back wing of the house (bathroom, laundry, three closets, office/sitting room and bedroom)is steady at 71 dgs all day... My office/bedroom is at steamy 75 with a low of 71, with, the remainder of the house, where the t-stat is, the thing reads 69 degrees... Its still running, has been on all day....

I intended to call the furnace people monday..
 
Cathedral ceilings look great but are notoriously difficult to insulate. Many were built with minimal insulation, especially those with exposed rafters or beams. It might be helpful to have someone inspect the ceiling and see just how much insulation is there, and how more can be added from the inside without destroying the "look".

Every time I see one of those "dream homes" on TV, with the hallways and even bathroom with two and three story ceilings, I wonder how high the fuel bill must be to heat them in the winter.
 
We on;y have Catherdial celings in one room (the new part).... The rest of the house in the attic i had 24" of cellouse insulation blown in... The outside walls have very little..
 
Tom...there are no baseboards here in the workshop where the boiler is located so I guess it's all waste heat.. It can get a little too warm for me so I have a floor fan blowing it out the door and up towards the stairway.

I experimented with the Mr. Slim a/c that is mounted up near the peak of the cathedral ceiling on the end wall. First I mounted a digital thermometer right next to the Honeywell roundie and the room temp was 70.. I turned on the Mr.Slim fan only with the vents blowing somewhat downwards towards the thermometer and within about 5 minutes the thermometer was up to 72 so it did bring down quite a bit of warm air that was floating around up there and saved the Thermostat from kicking in for awhile.
 
Yes, Pete said his living room and dining room both have cathedral ceilings. Together that might account for 1/4 or more of the floor space of the home - so heat loss through a thinly insulated cathedral ceiling could be a major concern. One could probably tell if it's underinsulated in Canada in the winter by going outside after a snowstorm and observing where on the roof the snow melts first...
 

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