exploder321
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Singer had furnaces?
Reality check again please: Your home heating costs
- Thread starter petek
- Start date
Help Support :
We have a Heat pump... It sucks... We have almost $190 a mon
My house is 1200 sq ft and I heat with a heat pump also. My bills are about the same as yours, Chad, and I really don't feel that they are all that bad.
I have a setback thermostat(Honeywell). When there is more that three degrees difference during the heating phase, electric resistance backup coils kick in(EXPENSIVE!). When in recovery, it locks out the electric coils so they don't come into play.
My house is 1200 sq ft and I heat with a heat pump also. My bills are about the same as yours, Chad, and I really don't feel that they are all that bad.
I have a setback thermostat(Honeywell). When there is more that three degrees difference during the heating phase, electric resistance backup coils kick in(EXPENSIVE!). When in recovery, it locks out the electric coils so they don't come into play.
How much do you pay per cubic foot or meter?
exploder321
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I am suprised..My old heat pump was a very efficent for the time Trane unit and it was for a 1,150 sq ft house... It cost about half as this to run/operate...It was almost 17 years old..Grams and granps old house was 3300 sq ft and also a fairly efficent unit (thik it was a Heil) and it cost the same as this unit..The unit i currently have is for a Mobile Home...Not for a house...
I guess i need to add:
I wanted a Near TOL Trane/American Standard System with at least 15 or 16 SEER... This is not what i got at all..I got a crappy Coleman-Evcon system with a 10.5 SEER (or whatever the lowest seer avaliable is)... My trane was a higher seer than this... This was the builders el-cheapo thing and he tried to give some whole song and dance how wonderful they are...It doesn't even heat the house right, keeps the back wing (where grams and gramps area is) just warm enough, my room and office like a Sauna and the rest of the house is freezing cold..I usualy keep my T-stat at 69 in winter and 72 in summer.. But this system just runs and runs until it cuts off and then come on again 25 min. later.... Have had it checked 3 times and there is no problem....
Thats why i think it sucks... It just don't work worth 2 shi** and isn't the greast thing in furnace techonlogy..Which would be ok if it where a fridge or something more fun..
I guess i need to add:
I wanted a Near TOL Trane/American Standard System with at least 15 or 16 SEER... This is not what i got at all..I got a crappy Coleman-Evcon system with a 10.5 SEER (or whatever the lowest seer avaliable is)... My trane was a higher seer than this... This was the builders el-cheapo thing and he tried to give some whole song and dance how wonderful they are...It doesn't even heat the house right, keeps the back wing (where grams and gramps area is) just warm enough, my room and office like a Sauna and the rest of the house is freezing cold..I usualy keep my T-stat at 69 in winter and 72 in summer.. But this system just runs and runs until it cuts off and then come on again 25 min. later.... Have had it checked 3 times and there is no problem....
Thats why i think it sucks... It just don't work worth 2 shi** and isn't the greast thing in furnace techonlogy..Which would be ok if it where a fridge or something more fun..
Gary & I have the same t-stat!!!
exploder321
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I would like one, but I will have to dump the crap-ola furnace first
My old Carrier Heat Pump
Was replaced in August of '99 with another Carrier(Model#38YRA). I heat(and cool) basically two floors with this unit. Daytime heating temps are 68 with the setback at 64. Cooling temps remain at 74.
Was replaced in August of '99 with another Carrier(Model#38YRA). I heat(and cool) basically two floors with this unit. Daytime heating temps are 68 with the setback at 64. Cooling temps remain at 74.
Gary & I have the same t-stat!!!
How exciting!
Mine was actually free when CL&P did an energy audit. And only after 1 year, the t-stat crapped out. Decided to replace it with the same model and has worked flawlessly since. When the old thermostat was first installed, I guess they crossed the wires(installed in the summer), and when it called for heat, I only got cool air. Someone had to come out and play with the wires in order to get some heating.
How exciting!
Mine was actually free when CL&P did an energy audit. And only after 1 year, the t-stat crapped out. Decided to replace it with the same model and has worked flawlessly since. When the old thermostat was first installed, I guess they crossed the wires(installed in the summer), and when it called for heat, I only got cool air. Someone had to come out and play with the wires in order to get some heating.
exploder321
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I would almost donate this one to a poop soule who can't afford a new one, if i did not have to finish paying the builders off and wanted any money left over... The one at my moms old house was a GE Weathertron and it was 26 years old when she left and still worked like a charm and didn't cost an arm and 3 legs to use..
exploder321
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Correction:
Poor Sole
Poor Sole
I should be getting my bill in a couple of days.
mayken4now
Well-known member
Yours gonna be expensive Bob.
Prolly will be for me @ 14.3 cents/kwh. But teh new washer is helping with the drying, which is now taking about 22-26 minutes of heat per load, better than about 40 minutes of heat.
Petek,
Good work shutting down the fireplace flue.
Other things to check: Any ventilation fans should be checked to make sure they have working automatic dampers. These might be in the kitchen, usually over the stove, or baths. If there is no automatic damper, or the damper is stuck open, it's an open heat leak to the great outdoors.
Check for air leaks between the living space and attic. Bring a caulking gun and a couple of refills with you ;-). Pay particular attention to any modifications to the ceilings - such as new lighting, dropped ceilings, etc. Similarly for the usual weatherproofing around windows/doors/electrical outlets/plumbing on external walls. And of course the obvious set-back microprocessor-controlled thermostat. Lastly, 70F is a bit toasty for Canada in the winter - just my opinion. I keep mine at 65F and wear heavy shirts (thick flannel) or sweaters or sweats at home.
A more efficient boiler would probably help. Since the existing one is keeping the basement very warm, it's probably wasting energy doing that. It might be better to install a register in the basement - that can be controlled - rather than rely upon heat loss, which can't be controlled.
When I bought this California house, the two fireplaces had leaky dampers. Additionally, the stove hood had no damper at all, letting warm air go up the flue all the time. There were many air leaks between the living quarters and the attic. The force air furnace ducting in the crawl space had leaks as well, one quite large. There was zero insulation in the attic.
After addressing all these issues, the natural gas consumption in the winter dropped to half of what it was the previous winter. Plus, the home was far less drafty and much more comfortable. This despite a 1980 furnace in the crawl, which is probably not much better than 75% efficient, and which is now oversize for the better insulated home. One of these days I'll get around to replacing it with a modern unit.
Good work shutting down the fireplace flue.
Other things to check: Any ventilation fans should be checked to make sure they have working automatic dampers. These might be in the kitchen, usually over the stove, or baths. If there is no automatic damper, or the damper is stuck open, it's an open heat leak to the great outdoors.
Check for air leaks between the living space and attic. Bring a caulking gun and a couple of refills with you ;-). Pay particular attention to any modifications to the ceilings - such as new lighting, dropped ceilings, etc. Similarly for the usual weatherproofing around windows/doors/electrical outlets/plumbing on external walls. And of course the obvious set-back microprocessor-controlled thermostat. Lastly, 70F is a bit toasty for Canada in the winter - just my opinion. I keep mine at 65F and wear heavy shirts (thick flannel) or sweaters or sweats at home.
A more efficient boiler would probably help. Since the existing one is keeping the basement very warm, it's probably wasting energy doing that. It might be better to install a register in the basement - that can be controlled - rather than rely upon heat loss, which can't be controlled.
When I bought this California house, the two fireplaces had leaky dampers. Additionally, the stove hood had no damper at all, letting warm air go up the flue all the time. There were many air leaks between the living quarters and the attic. The force air furnace ducting in the crawl space had leaks as well, one quite large. There was zero insulation in the attic.
After addressing all these issues, the natural gas consumption in the winter dropped to half of what it was the previous winter. Plus, the home was far less drafty and much more comfortable. This despite a 1980 furnace in the crawl, which is probably not much better than 75% efficient, and which is now oversize for the better insulated home. One of these days I'll get around to replacing it with a modern unit.
powerfin64
Well-known member
trane owner here too
I replaced my old Coleman Evcon heatpump(2-1/2 ton unit) 4+years ago after it died( it was about 7-8yrs old. I'll NEVER own another coleman heatpump!) I will say it did work ok, but was LOUD. it was about 3 yrs old when I moved in here( single wide mobile home) the only problem I had was one winter I had to have the Defrost board relplaced, but the damage was done already.
I got a Trane XL 1000(10EER,2-1/2 ton) and have been happy with it, other than, the service guys for them around here are IDOITS for service work. I've had a few problems with mine, but it was do to VERY shotty work by the previous service guys. I won't go into details about that.
I keep my temp in the winter at 68( day and night) and summer A/C temp at 76( day and night)
My electric bill isn't all that high most months, under $80.00
Im a firm believer in heatpumps.
I was told by a guy that is a independant repair guy for all brands, to set your temp and forget it. It will cost you MORE to heat up/cool down a house, than maintain a steady temp. In the summer, have your furnace fan run all the time to eliminate hot spots, which I do and that has helped alot.
and btw, CLEAN YOUR AIR FILTERS 1x A MONTH!! I do mine like clockwork.
Rich
I replaced my old Coleman Evcon heatpump(2-1/2 ton unit) 4+years ago after it died( it was about 7-8yrs old. I'll NEVER own another coleman heatpump!) I will say it did work ok, but was LOUD. it was about 3 yrs old when I moved in here( single wide mobile home) the only problem I had was one winter I had to have the Defrost board relplaced, but the damage was done already.
I got a Trane XL 1000(10EER,2-1/2 ton) and have been happy with it, other than, the service guys for them around here are IDOITS for service work. I've had a few problems with mine, but it was do to VERY shotty work by the previous service guys. I won't go into details about that.
I keep my temp in the winter at 68( day and night) and summer A/C temp at 76( day and night)
My electric bill isn't all that high most months, under $80.00
Im a firm believer in heatpumps.
I was told by a guy that is a independant repair guy for all brands, to set your temp and forget it. It will cost you MORE to heat up/cool down a house, than maintain a steady temp. In the summer, have your furnace fan run all the time to eliminate hot spots, which I do and that has helped alot.
and btw, CLEAN YOUR AIR FILTERS 1x A MONTH!! I do mine like clockwork.
Rich
Glenn (Dadoes) and all:
Is there a cut-out temp (outdoor minimum during heating season) at which the heat-pump should not be run?
And Glenn, how can I be sure the electric coils are not energized when they should not be? I was thinking of putting an indicator light on GadgetGary's air-handler, with his permission, of course!
Is there a cut-out temp (outdoor minimum during heating season) at which the heat-pump should not be run?
And Glenn, how can I be sure the electric coils are not energized when they should not be? I was thinking of putting an indicator light on GadgetGary's air-handler, with his permission, of course!
Hi Rich
Your points above are all on my mission list, to seek out as many leaks as I can find within reason starting with those easy fixes like the dampers you mentioned. Thankfully the previous owners put in new windows recently (except for the aforementioned 3 bathrooms which are being attended to temporarily with the stretch film till I can replace them) I know there isn't enough insulation in the ceiling over the bedrooms which would lead me to believe the same exists in the ceiling over the laundry/garage/sunroom which are directly below the bedrooms. That's gonna be tougher and will require blowing in from the small access panel in the ensuite bathroom down there. But I will say since closing that fireplace damper I've already noticed a difference. Obviously with the house being 50 y.o. it's never going to be as tight as a new build but I should be able to get it down to a more realistic level so I don't have to spend a fortune heating it yet keep it comfortable.. I dunno about less than 70 degs though,many people keep their places somewhere in the 60's even during the day but I find that too chilly, 70-72 is in the words of Goldilocks herself "just right" Funny thing is that for me anyways, 70-72 in the summer isn't just right, that's too chilly and I like the rooms about 75-76
Your points above are all on my mission list, to seek out as many leaks as I can find within reason starting with those easy fixes like the dampers you mentioned. Thankfully the previous owners put in new windows recently (except for the aforementioned 3 bathrooms which are being attended to temporarily with the stretch film till I can replace them) I know there isn't enough insulation in the ceiling over the bedrooms which would lead me to believe the same exists in the ceiling over the laundry/garage/sunroom which are directly below the bedrooms. That's gonna be tougher and will require blowing in from the small access panel in the ensuite bathroom down there. But I will say since closing that fireplace damper I've already noticed a difference. Obviously with the house being 50 y.o. it's never going to be as tight as a new build but I should be able to get it down to a more realistic level so I don't have to spend a fortune heating it yet keep it comfortable.. I dunno about less than 70 degs though,many people keep their places somewhere in the 60's even during the day but I find that too chilly, 70-72 is in the words of Goldilocks herself "just right" Funny thing is that for me anyways, 70-72 in the summer isn't just right, that's too chilly and I like the rooms about 75-76
Forgot to mention.. being a ubiquitous 4 level split, each level isn't the exact same temperature. It's warmest in the basement here, probably around 76, up 6 steps to the sunroom and laundryroom and it's a perfect 72, up 4 more steps to the kitchen/dining/livingrooms and it's a nice 70 (where the T.Stat is located), up 6 more stairs to the bedrooms and it's about 68. Those temps work for me. I figure that very warm heat in the basement is going to rise convectivly anyways to the other levels so I don't have a problem with it.
Armstrong Air
Well, I went and checked and we have an Armstrong Air Ultra V. It is Energy Star rated, I guess that is what makes it really effecient. See the link for more info.
We also have a whole house humidifier as well but I forgot to look at the brand.
I know our bills are cheap. I think the one that was the highest was last December at it was around the $200 range. I was baking up a storm for the holidays for several days straight, as well as having visitors that liked the house warmer than 70 (Arizona wimps).
Well, I went and checked and we have an Armstrong Air Ultra V. It is Energy Star rated, I guess that is what makes it really effecient. See the link for more info.
We also have a whole house humidifier as well but I forgot to look at the brand.
I know our bills are cheap. I think the one that was the highest was last December at it was around the $200 range. I was baking up a storm for the holidays for several days straight, as well as having visitors that liked the house warmer than 70 (Arizona wimps).
