Rebuild of Maytag Transmission and Transplant into LAT 9800 AAW.

[beekeyknee]

Remove rubber water deflector from trans stem.

 

[beekeyknee]

Clean drive pulley and parts and use fine steal wool on inside of pulley groove if there's any rubber glazing from the belt.

 

[beekeyknee]

Here's all the rubber parts. I clean these in hot water with lots of soap and a green scratchy pad. Then I take the air dome with hose, fill the dome about half way with baking soda, pour vinegar down the dome, pinch around on the dome, pour in more vinegar until it starts to come out the tube at the other end. I keep repeating this until it's clean. I don't want old muck and hard water deposits to interfere with the water level switch.

 

[beekeyknee]

Then I take all the rubber parts in the previous post, arrange them in the bottom of a pot, pour rubber protectant (Armor All type stuff) over them making sure all the air bubbles are out of the tubes, cover the pot and cook it in the oven at around 175-200 degrees for 24 hours. The parts usually come out like brand new. If they're starting to degenerate this may not work. The bleach tube didn't soften up much, but it didn't hurt it.

 

[beekeyknee]

Removed the bolts and knocked the trans. halves apart with a screwdriver and rubber mallet.

 

[beekeyknee]

Dumped the old oil in a box lined with a plastic bag to be recycled.

 

[beekeyknee]

The orifice that gets starved for oil when the oil gets thick.

 

[beekeyknee]

O-ring at the top is the one I ordered from Direct Maytag (Whirlpool) to find the correct size. The three directly below it are from Ace Hardware. The O-ring at the bottom right is the one I cut while removing the mounting stem. The three to the left of it are from Ace. Took the two original rings to Ace Hardware and matched the sizes. The rings are made by Serv-a-lite. The small ring was labeled ORM-206-315. Its measurements are: I.D. 15mm/ O.D. 21mm/ Thickness 3mm. The large ring was labeled ORM-206-325. Its measurements are: I.D. 25 mm/ O.D. 31/ Thickness 3mm. These are the rings to go for. The cost was only about $1.40-$1.50. Much better than the $17.00 Maytag (Whirlpool) wanted for them. Thought you guys might like this info.[this post was last edited: 2/8/2012-08:32]

 

[beekeyknee]

This is the agitator drive shaft pinion I don't recommend removing. I have been advised that it usually doesn't go very well. I tried and gave up. Even if you get it out there's no guarantee it won't be worse if you CAN reinstall it.

 

[beekeyknee]

Use snap ring plyers to remove the rings over the intermediate gear and the washer that holds down the Pitman arm and gear.

 

[beekeyknee]

Washer over Pitman arm and gear. In some older models there was a cover plate with bolts that held this down and I believe in even older models there was no retainers at all. When you took the cover off the transmission and turned it over to dump the oil the gears would just fall out.

 

[beekeyknee]

Take out Pitman arm.

 

[beekeyknee]

Take out segment gear.

 

[beekeyknee]

Take out Pitman gear. Looks like a weird face.

 

[beekeyknee]

Take out intermediate gear.

 

[beekeyknee]

Pull groove pin out of drive shaft nylon pinion gear.

 

[beekeyknee]

Be careful with this pin. It's small and easily lost.

 

[beekeyknee]

Pull up on drive shaft while spinning counterclockwise.

 

[beekeyknee]

When you get to the top of the helix you should feel the O-ring start to thread into the helix. Keep turning and the shaft should move slowly past the O-ring.

 

[beekeyknee]

Once the O-ring reaches the end of the helix the shaft should pull straight up and out of the drive tube.