Swedish Electrolux EWC-1350 help needed...

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inverters whimpy? really? depends on what you are trying to power with it, the quality of the inverter, where it is made, what you paid for it. Maybe bellalaundry is in over his head with the conversion. If that is the case, maybe you should stop this project while you are ahead? It would be great if you posted what the power requirements are for this machine. We don't know if this machine will with a different wiring/electricity configuration, as some foreign device require leg + neutral and not just leg + leg.
 
Just as an aside, if you do go down the inverter/generator route you'll be able to have just about any modern European or Australian appliance you like from anywhere you can get it.....

 

Australian domestic appliances run 230V @ 10 amp maximum....
 
Power Generators and Inverters

Went through this with my Pfaff ironer early on (requires 3.05 kW/50hz @ 220v/50hz).

Unit runs on 60hz well enough and was designed to be sold/used all over the world so *whatever* 220v power source (American 2 wire vs European 1 wire system and so forth)will power the unit. There is even a method of adjusting the speed of the roller to compensate for changes that would occur when using the unit in either 50hz or 60hz situations.

As for voltage both our Miele repairman, Miele's technicans and our electrican explained the rules.

For things such as washing machines and other appliances with large motors, heating requiremnts etc one needs a converter at least *twice* to *three* times the maximum load. Otherwise one will simply burn out the unit which should ever exceed using 1/3 to 1/2 of it's rating.

In the USA the largest units sold for domestic use top out at around 10,000 watts or more and *must* be hardwired into an outlet.

The problem with washers,dryers and other items with heaters that draw high amounts of power is that they can do so for sustained periods. Think about a washer heating cold tap water to 140F or even 195F. That is going to require some time. If the unit is plugged into the proper rated electrical socket this isn't a problem. However running such a thing off a converter and or inverter means that unit must work very hard for a very long time. This could create conditions leading to an electrical fire. If nothing else using a unit that is under powered for the job will simply cause it to burn out before it's time.

If you really want a headache, pipe:

[this post was last edited: 11/27/2011-01:35]

 
using 1/3 to 1/2 of it's rating

Not really! If the inverter is not Chinese crap it will sustain its rated load indefinitely so a 2kVA inverter will supply a 2kVA load indefinitely.

Maybe the technician from Miele was thinking about surge currents like when motors switch from washing to spinning. If that is the case consider that the motor is usually in the 300/400 Watts range and an inverter used on a washer has to sustain at least a load of 2500Watts so there's no problem in handling a surge current from such a small motor.

The heater, on the other hand, being a 100% resistive load, once connected, will "burn" always the same current regardless of where it is connected and the waveform or frequency supplied.

@qualin

Yup, one of those two inverter can do the job nicely. The 3kVA one will supply nicely any domestic European appliance and some more but I guess that the price will be way higher than that of the washing machine!

Anyway, because of the cost and ability to sustain surge currents better than the solid state type I'd say that the diesel generator is a better idea. It's also easier to find a used one, just remember that the output should be 220/240V at 50Hz of course and that the sustained current must be of at least 10A! So you should be in the 2300/2500 VA range
 
Chinese C**P Converters

They are all pretty much the USA market has when it comes to step-up/step-down converters. There are some better versions on the market, these are sold to those who know and or for such bodies as the federal government including the military, embassy staff and such. Such units though tend to be *very* expensive and again if one is going at or >5kW should if not must be hardwired.

Motors and *surge currents*, yes that came up with Miele and others. Even using an appliance such as my ironer that has a motor can cause problems. Constant stopping and starting one was told would stress an improperly sized converter.
 
The

quicker I can get rid of this, the faster I can move onto another project! My partner is quietly unhappy and I know there is a lesson in this for me!

I am lucky though, I still have a top load H-Axis AEG Lavamat that is totally mechanical and I can play with from time to time!

Guy
 
gabriele:
From a practical perspective the Chinese ones do still serve their purpose as they are made to be used on light loads, or every once in a while. They a made cheap, and are cheap to buy. If you need one for a one use, emergency deal, it's the way to go. The output is not as clean. If want something with a cleaner output, you get a true sine-wave unit. The cost is significantly more, but better output. From what you say it sounds like you are looking for a long-term solution. One could purchase a frequency converter, but it would require hard-wiring it. The generator is more of a long-term solution, but not everyone has the space, or ability to maintain it. Solid-state power electronics in general are not as able to stand up to abuse are their counter parts. As long as people who use these devices keep that in mind, they should have no problem.

bella: maybe you could put it on ebay?
 
@ supremewhirlpol

You're right about what you said but with such a high load resistive + inductive with surge currents you risk in burning the inverter the first time you use it unless it is really able to hande what the machine requires
 
My brain must still be on vacation...

I don't think Guy/bellalaundry ever posted the nameplate of this machine. I was going by that the heater would not be used. When I said the above statements, I was thinking inductive and small loads, like laptop power supplies, etc. You are VERY right about the resistive load part of this machine. If the heater is used its resistive load would require constant current all the time. Resistive loads are very demanding on the power source. I consider things with heaters to be a heavy load. Surge currents would be ok for the inverter to handle. Otherwise he would need a heavy duty inverter. BUT, if the machine was to be used on the warm or cold setting, would the heater still activate? I suppose that Guy could disconnect the heater, but he'd have the thermostat to deal with so that the machine could progress through the cycle.
 
I will be bringing

the machine to the dump on the weekend. Lesson learned...no electronics for foreign machines!

The AEG Lavmat that I have and use sometimes is a Lavamat 240...the one that shakes around a lot on it's final spin. There are a couple of videos on Youtube that show the dancing around!

Guy
 
I never needed one. Actually I never have come across one either. Which one is missing? And what color is your control panel, white or brown?

Eddy1210 here knows a repairman in Vancouver who repairs German appliances (mainly Miele and AEG), he might be able to help you. Eddy can give you his address.
 
While some older machines may survive on a US phase-to-phase 240V 60Hz supply, there is no guarantee that you will not cause problems as it is not what they're designed to be connected to.

European power is normally 230V 50Hz standardised within the following tolerances 230 V ± 6% at 50 Hz = 216.2 to 243.8 Volts

USA and Canada 120V ± 5% at 60 Hz or phase-to-phase ± 5%
= 228 to 252 Volts

So, if the machine's tolerances are finely tuned to European specs, it's possible that a constant US supply that was set a little high on the spec, could fry the circuitry.
 
Ah did a little more research!

I did a little bit of googling and it seems Electrolux's European machines display error flashes in the form of hexadecimal codes. More modern machines have displays so do not need to flash codes in pulses.

So, instead of counting 0,1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11,12
Count: 0,1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,A,B,C,D,E,F

Error codes all start with "E" so, they just ignore E.

11 flashes = B
You need to count for 1,2 or 3 flashes after the 11 flashes for the finer detail.

So, the error code you're getting is

EB something..

EB1 = Incorrect mains frequency
EB2 = Mains voltage too high.
EB3 = Mains voltage too low.

Mains in standard English is the same as "line" in US English.

More info below:
So, Mains Frequency = Line Frequency.

Zanussi Washing Machine Error Codes

Zanussi, AEG, Tricity and Electrolux fault codes, how to find them and how to find out what they are telling you
www.ukwhitegoods.co.uk www.ukwhitegoods.co.uk
 

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