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Unimatic1140

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Here is my finished project, anyone care to guess what this little box will do (and NO it's not a bomb)? I got the circuit board components as a kit that I assembled and soldered. The rest of the unit I made from stuff around the workshop. I'm powering the circuit board components with 12volts dc power...
 
some kind of control system

Judging by those big wires on those terminal, looks like you're trying to interface a washing machine via Serial port to a computer.
 
I'll go with a computer interface to washer/dryer/dishwasher controls. You have a program running on the computer that allows you to customize any wash/dry program you want and the machine runs it accordingly. Need your Unimatic to spray rinse? No problem! Want your Whirlpool to spin-drain? Piece of cake! Want your Youngstown to prewash-rinse-wash-rinse-rinse? You got it!

Robert, you are getting dangerous...
 
some kind of relay.

I agree.

for not only controlling the cycles an appliance goes through but also to monitor the electricity used?

Either that or it's just a damn run-of-the-mill bomb. blah, blah, blah.
 
You guys who said its a computer run washing machine timer are right on the money! Using Visual Basic to program the Parallel port, I will be able to program any type of cycle I want, the timer increments can be in as little as a quarter of a second if I wish.

I tested it this afternoon with a cheap $25 computer that I got at an estate sale for today for this project and it works perfectly!

Now my project for the winter will be to make a "Super Unimatic". How about a recirculation system and on-board heater, maybe a 240 volt Unimatic. I have enough spare parts to build a machine from scratch. Just something to keep me off the streets I guess.
 
Hmmm...perhaps it could be a timer controller for the Youngstown to increase the wash time? Inquiring minds quieren saber...
 
Should we be worried where this all is going to lead?

wouldn't it be cool to modify an I-18 washer and dryer with a computer timer. Complete with soak cycle, dispensers, like you said a heater, temperature controlled inlet valves(like whirlpool) and a lighted console. but it has too look like it was made original. perhaps 3 speed motor that alternates speeds for certain cycles, a programmable chime for when ever you want it to ring. I think it would be convenient to have a remote speaker that you could carry anywhere in the house that would talk to you telling you what the machine is doing as it changes cycles.

Now that I say I know I couldn't make all these things happen but I think Robert could.

A lighted wash tub. a water hardness monitor. a water presure monitor. Ah, I know
... an atuomatic detergent and fabric softner dispenser that measures and dispenses only the amount needed to achieve a certain PH or acidity or however it would measure that.
A motor monitor and machine diagnostics program. An onboard generator that would use the spinning motor to feed back into the electric system so hopefully the machine would run actually consuming no measurable electricity or even create it. A set back timer for the washer. An automatic lint trap scraper for the dryer that would package the lint after each cycle and then tell you when the container was full.

Now you've got me thinking even more than usual, which is a GOOD thing!
 
Here's a cycle I just tought of. Wuold be done on a Unimatic

Start - fill
1 or 2 minutes in - start agitating while filling (like Magic Minute)
3-8 minutes wash
9-10 wash overflow
11-12 spin
13-14 spray rinse
15-16 spin
17-19 fill
20-25 agitating and filling at once
25-26 start spin
27-28 spray rinse
29-30 spin

And there you have it. A UniKelviMatiNator
 
Wow...how cool...a BASIC timer program!! Is the computer you're operating it with a DOS-based system?

I like the "Super-Uni" idea too...it's PROTOTYPE TIME! :)
 
early atttempts

Hi Robert
Now you are really moving up my alley.
My first interest in washing machines was to design the "perfect" (based on my own values and biases) washing machine to use on solar power.
MY frustration is that many machines are designed with little regard for power consumption, when with a little change at almost no extra cost they could use a fraction of current power.
The main exception is F&P whose washers use less than 170 watts on all cycles and have no high current surge when starting up. But they are water hogs...

The worst offenders (Sorry Louis) are the little Philips TLFLs. The motor in them is a marvel, a tiny DC permanent magnet motor which uses less than 200 watts AT THE MOTOR to wash and less than 250 watts to spin. But the electronic controller circuitry is ridiculous, they put the motor in series with the heating element to give the slow (wash) speed, so the motor sees 24 volt x 8 amp = 192 watts and the heater element sees 216 volt x 8 amp = 1728 watts so the entire circuit uses 240 volt x 8 amp = 1920 watts. What a waste!!

I am not up with interfacing computers to the outside world, my attempt was with a stand alone circuit to be an electronic washing machine timer. I used a modified "electronic dice" circuit. The dice uses a 555 timer feeding pulses to a 4017 decade counter. The decade counter has one input and up to ten outputs, and the power out is changed to the next output in sequence each time it gets a pulse from the 555. In the dice circuit only six outputs are used and the 555 very rapidly cycles the outputs until the button is released, continues a little and stops on a ramdom one of six outputs.
In my timer circuit I slowed the 555 to pulse once every 1.5 minutes and used all 10 outputs of the 4017 decade counter. My initial attempt was:
1. - fill, -> when pressure switch clicks over wash for preset time from 5 to 20 minutes - time selected by a variable resistor.
2. - drain 1.5 minute
3. - spin 1.5 minute
4. - fill then rinse
5. - drain
6. - spin
7. - rinse
8. - drain
9. - spin
10 - off (illuminate "finished" light)

I had relays to switch the circuits, LEDs to show each output in turn, variable resistor to select wash time, switches to select wash temp but keep all rinses cold.

Main hassle I had was the 12v DC motor I used in the washer gave huge spikes when it was switched, which caused the timer to skip to the next output. It could have been solved with filtering or at worst, a separate battery power supply for the timer which charged up when the washer was off. /The washer was entirely 12 vdc, a Hoover Premier TL with 12vdc solenoids for hot and cold fill and a home-rewound big solenoid for spin brake. The motor was a 12vdc golf buggy motor. It used about 200 watts to wash and 170 watts to spin. Pump was a hoover twin tub pump driven by a car heater fan motor.

Since then I have been distracted with trivialities like building a house and found machines that work OK from the factory with minimal modification. In the not so distant future I would like to get into it again, perhaps with a computer driven board like yours initially, later a programmable chip in the timer.

Looking forward to see what you do with yours.

Chris.
 
Wow Chris, that sounds quite interesting. I don't quite understand what you parts and devices you used to accomplish all that, but it sounds very interesting.

As for my “SUPER-Unimatic”, I’m trying to think out of the box a bit, here are my first thoughts, I have all of the necessary parts listed below from other machines:

Picture a Unimatic with the Unimatic mechanism pump disabled and then I add:
- Two electric pumps, one drain, one heavy duty 30gpm re-circulation pump.
- An in-line Dacor dishwasher water heater
- Flow through Detergent and Fabric Softener Dispensers.
- Two fill flumes, one fills the outer tub, one fills the inner tub.

How about this for the SUPER White-whites cycle or SUPER Clean-Shop Towels Cycle:

Fill OUTER drain tub with 4 gallons of hot water, when 2 gallons have filled start dry clothes spinning.

"Four Minutes of Magic":
After four gallons of water are in the outer tub, turn off motor but leave spin solenoid energized so tub coasts from 1140rpm down. Start 30 gallon a minute spray from the re-circulation pump and angle the nozzle so the water hits the side of the clothes in the tub towards the direction of spin as to help keep the tub coasting. Start in-line heater pump heater. Water sprays through clothes and back out into the outer tub and re-circulates over and over again. When the wash tub gets down to about 500rpm cycle the motor on to speed the tub back up to 1140rpm as coasting will slow the tub down. A Unimatic with heavy wet clothes will coast for almost four minutes if the brake is kept from engaging!

Wash:
Fill the outer tub with six more gallons of water and pump it up through the re-circulation pump. When tub is full agitate for 60% of the wash time (20 minutes or so) and pause for 40% of the time while keeping the water heating through the re-circulation system for the entire 20 minutes. Maybe put a filter pan below the incoming stream of water.

First Spin:
Spin off wash water for a minute and a half. Turn drain pump on only to drain a few gallons of water from the outer tub so the water level is below stays the bottom of the wash tub to prevent any drag during spin, but keep most of the water in the outer tub to add plenty of extra weight to help keep the machine as stable as possible during 1140rpm spin. Of course introduce four 7 second cold spray rinses into the spinning tub and cycle the drain pump on just enough to drain the extra water.

Pause and Drain:
Stop the tub and drain the water using the drain pump.

Fill for rinse:
Fill in outer tub with cool water and pump water back into inner tub with re-circulation pump, start agitation. Immediately add two minutes of overflow rinse turning by turning off re-circulation pump and turning on drain pump. Stop pump and dispense softener and have a minute of agitation with softener and no overflow.

Dry Spin:
Spin out rinse water, if the towel cycle is selected spin for eight minutes otherwise five.

Ohhh the dreams we can come up with.
 
Finally something I can relate to...

I used to do this kind of stuff for a living. Although I can't tell for sure without a schematic of the relay board, I bet you won't be able to sense the relay positions programatically. So I can suggest that rather than writing the relays once each time any one needs to change, that you periodically rewrite them all. Sometimes those wascally welays get glitched by sinister forces (like gizmo's 555 timer was) and rewriting them can potentially save embarrassing erroneous states.

I like the hose clamp used to strain-relieve the 25-conductor cable.
 

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