Time for new washer?

[s2_82]

Hi there, I'm Steve, and I'd like to say hello, and introduce myself to this site as I'm new on here.

I do have a fascination with appliances most of which are washers and have good memories growing up in a time when appliances (washers especially) were built to last and be repaired..

Lately I've been having a problem with my own washer though, and am not sure whether it's time to say goodbye to it and buy a new one, or whether it's worth repairing.

Long story short, I have an 8 year old Amana top load washer
Model NTW4600VQ1 to be exact which replaced a an older Maytag legacy series (2005) which died after only 4 years due to transmission faliure that my home insurance didnt want to fix.. so they replaced it with the Amana that I currently have.

Back to my story.. the problem I'm having for quite some time now is that it leaves clothes soaking wet after the spin cycle.
After a load or two it does fine, three or more loads it leaves them soaking wet in a big clump and wont spin again till it gets an hour to an hour and a half break of it being turned off.

Another thing that I notice when it does this is that the washer doesn't engage in that extra fast extended spin speed after the first drain/spin.. (if that makes sense)

So I just want to know what do you all think? Is this something that could be repaired or should I invest in a new washer, and what should I be looking at?

Thanks!

 

[DADoES]

 
Your Amana is a Whirlpool direct-drive.  One of the simplest/easiest mechanisms for repairs.  You just need to pinpoint what is the problem by observing very closely what is the operational sequence that happens when it fails to work compared to what's supposed to happen.  Have you watched the machine through an entire cycle?  Or do you start it running, leave, and come back later to find the clothes dripping wet, or spun-out as the case may be?

 

[norgechef]

You should let it cool off

I always let my washers cool off for at least an hour after a large load of wash. The motor and the transmission need time to cool down to prevent these issues. Thats probably the reason your Maytag Legacy broke after only 4 years. I have a 2003 Atlantis which is basically the same as the Maytag legacy and I've noticed with most of these washers (I've had 3 before this) start getting loud during agitation if you run several loads in a row. Also the motor will get very hot. If you want a washer to last its best to let it cool off after every cycle. This would likely fix the issue without needing to repair the machine anytime soon. However if it happens all the time the clutch is likely the problem. Needless to say I have saved a lot of money and repairs by letting my machines cool off. I never need to replace any parts related to the drive system.

 

[jasonlittle]

It could be possible that clutch is wearing out.

 

[DADoES]

 
Coin-op machines of the same mechanical design in a laundromat, apartment complex laundry room, etc. may run repeatedly all day without appreciable down-time between cycles.  Those machines may have a 6-pad spin clutch instead of 3-pad, and a sturdier motor coupler (which doesn't sound to be the problem in this case), but the mechanics otherwise are robust enough to handle it.

 

[s2_82]

Thanks for all the replies.. to answer some of your comments:

@norgechef
I caught on quick that I need to give the washer a break (a couple hours) before doing more laundry.. so I usually will run no more than two loads..

@dadoes
Ive actually sat watched/listened through entire cycles and I definitely can tell when things aren't going right.

When things are going correctly, the washer goes into drain after the rinse cycle, and then pauses for about 30 seconds. The washer then starts up again and then immediately engages into a high speed extended spin (forecefully continuing to drain water)to "spin dry" the clothes and then comes to a gradual slow stop at the end.. (whine down)

This is what happens when the machine starts acting up:
Right after the rinse water drains, the machine starts at a slow spin.. at this time I notice sort of a sound like either the motor is starting to struggle/hesitate to pump out the water. The washer then pauses for 30 seconds.

After it starts up again the machine gets stuck in a very low to medium extended speed spin, with barely any water escaping. At this point, I already know things arent going well..At the end of the cycle, the machine just abruptly stops as if its transitioning from wash to drain or rinse to drain... you open the lid and just as expected, a heap of very wet clothes.

Which coun op machines are you talking about, Speed Queen by chance? I never knew you could use coin op machines as a residential washer (coin box)if that's what you meant..

@jasonlittle,

Yea when I tried diagnosing the possible causes over the internet, I also came up with bad clutch or motor coupler

 

[DADoES]

 
So it always drains the rinse (or wash) water OK.  Sometimes spins OK to full speed, and sometimes not.

The timer should pause the motor briefly at the end of rinse (and wash) agitation, then restart for drain (*without* spin).

It should always fully drain the water before spin.

It should pause briefly again after 2 mins of drain, then restart for spin.  This pause releases the neutral drain latch inside the transmission which holds the basket from spinning during the drain period (the neutral drain latch sets during agitation).

- Wash or rinse agitate.
- Pause.
- Neutral drain 2 mins (no spinning).
- Pause.
- Spin.

What happens if spin is struggling and you stop and restart it (either open / close the lid, or push / pull the timer off and back on)?

 

[s2_82]

Yes it always drains the wash and rinse water, it sometimes will spin to full max speed and sometimes doesn't.

That all seems pretty logical just as you have listed, and yes it does that exactly in that order.

But, if you were to stop or when the washer comes to the end of the cycle, and when you pull the timer back on, it will do the same thing over and over again (I've tried 3 times in a row) until you've given the machine 1.5-2 hours rest. When you then turn the dial to spin, it works perfectly normal, and goes into that full, max spin.

 

[DADoES]

 
Are you wanting to DIY the repair, or weighing whether to hire a servicer?

 

[henene4]

Sounds like a neutral drain issue.

Wild guessing would make me believe the neutral drain kit is faulty and either works as intended or - when the washer struggles - never fully engages nor disengages during the next pause.
The additional friction keeps is from full speed spinning.
Then it takes a few hours to actually reset.

That could also affect the motor and clutch.

In that case your workload could be anywhere from a neutral drain kit replacement up to New clutch, transmission and possibly motor.

 

[s2_82]

At first I did think about the DIY repair but honestly don't have too much time on my hands so more than likely I'll be calling a service tech.

I'm definitely preparing for what more than likely will be a nightmare of a repair bill, expecially with all that could possibly be wrong with it.. and gets me thinking whether it's worth saving or not..

I go to these big box stores and they don't have anything like what I have now. I don't know what new machine I would buy even if I had to.

So Im just weighing my options at the moment, we'll see

Henene4,
That's a good possibility