Toastmaster Table Fan

[Ultramatic]

 

 

<span style="font-size: medium;">Some of you may recall I purchased this fan a few months ago</span>

<span style="font-size: medium;"> http://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?43923</span>

 

<span style="font-size: medium;">A Toastmaster Mod. 5301-1. Well the motor is dead, and I was wondering if anyone knew where I could get a replacement. I suspect this fan was manufactured for Toastmaster by McGraw Electric.  Any info would be appreciated. </span>

 



 



 



 

 

 

 

[retromania]

Love it!

Love it! Love it! Love it!

 

[tolivac]

How bout salvaging a motor from another table fan?A donor fan may be needed to save this one!

 

[jetaction]

Perfect site for you to visit

The Antique Fan Collectors Association is a wonderful club with a great website that I am sure you will find helpful. They have a buy/sell/trade section and I have been lucky every time I have had questions like yours.

 

[appliguy]

Hey Don I haven't seen you post here in a while

good to see that your still a member I hope all is well with you.....PAT COFFEY

 

[dustin92]

I kind of doubt the motor is actually "dead". I would first try wiring a new cord directly to the motor leads, bypassing the switch. I would imagine you have a bad switch or bad wiring. I am a member of the AFCA forums and DT Vintage Fans forums, and I am sure somebody there would be willing to help you out.

 

[rp2813]

Is the AFCA site the one with all the tight-ass rules, and the one that makes you become a dues paying member before you can access any of their forums?

 

[Ultramatic]

Hey thanks guys!

 

<span style="font-size: medium;">I became a member last night of the AFCA. I want to try the motor directly, bypassing the switch as suggested by Dustin, but the paper wrapping the coils has disintegrated. Can it be tried without the paper? I know next to nothing about electric motors. Thanks again!</span>

 

[Ultramatic]

<span style="font-size: medium;">Hey Pat, have you forgotten something?</span>

 

[dustin92]

As long as you only have 2 wires coming out of the windings, you can carefully attach a known good cord directly to the wires, but be careful to not pull them out, that is why the paper tape was originally there- to keep the leads from being pulled out, and to reduce vibration of the windings. The tape usually deteriorates over time from heat. Are the windings a bright coppery or reddish color and the tape beige or light brown? If the windings or tape are blackened (from overheating, caused by internal shorts), there really isn't much point in testing it, the motor is fried. In that case, I would try to track down a parts fan. It is definitely worth fixing in any case though. I tried to reply to your post on the AFCA forum, but my membership has expired, and I can only reply to my own posts...

 

[Ultramatic]

Thanks Dustin...

<span style="font-size: medium;">The motor coils look bright. The paper was beige, nothing blackened.I think it's a one speed. Here's some more pictures:
</span>

 



 



 



 



 



 

 

 

 

 

[Ultramatic]

Grim news...

<span style="font-size: medium;">One of the leads is broken off. </span>

 

[tolivac]

Can the broken lead be resoldered?

 

[dustin92]

The lead can be resoldered, is there enough wire to solder to?

 

[Ultramatic]

Resolder...

<span style="font-size: medium;">I have no broken lead wire. Do I have to resolder exactly where it broke off? </span>Thanks!

 

[dustin92]

Yes, it has to be soldered exactly where it broke off- the windings are one continuous copper wire, and in your case, with a single speed motor, it has two "poles"- one on each side, one side is hooked up to the hot wire of the cord, and the other side to the neutral, which causes a magnetic field between the poles, causing the rotor (and fan blade) to spin. Are you able to disassemble the fan and remove the motor from the housing?

 

[Ultramatic]

a little bit more disassembly...

<span style="font-size: medium;">I found the broken lead wire. Before I go any further would like to clean out all that old grease and grime. </span>

 

 



 



 



 

 

[Ultramatic]

 

<span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-size: medium;">U</span>pdate, I cleaned it with compressed air, oiled it then<span style="font-size: medium;"> </span>connected the leads directly and tied the winding, first with electrician's tape, it started right up, but noisily,  then it started to smoke and the tape melted. I then tried plastic zip ties, ran quieter, but still smoked after 2 minutes<span style="font-size: medium;">, however the ties did not melt but the tape to one of the leads has. A wire cap is next.</span></span>

 



 



 



 

<span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-size: medium;">W</span>hile quieter on the second test, still made a lot of noise. Sorta like a whining sound, like the motor was not turning, but in this case it is.The shaft turns smoothly.
</span>

 

 

<span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-size: medium;">
</span></span>

 

[dustin92]

Did you solder the lead wires onto the motor leads? If not, that would explain the tape melting, it did not have a good connection and was arcing. On the second picture that shows the zip ties on the windings, by the lower zip tie, is that area of the winding darkened, or is that where tape melted onto it? Your noise issue sounds like an alignment issue or a bad bearing. With the motor assembled, try moving the shaft side to side and up and down. Can you feel a clicking movement? It is normal to have front to back movement, but up/down/ side to side means your bearings (usually the front bearing) are bad. As for the smoking, have you been running it with the blade on? These motors need airflow over them to keep them cool, because the tend to run hot anyway. Does it run really fast? a 2 pole motor should run very fast, if not, you have a lubrication or binding issue.