Transplanting a WP/KM/Inglis Dryer Console

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The quirks....

Firstly, the timer motor continues to run in the off position if the door is open. Once I close the door it stops. If I leave the door open it will continue past the off position and into the next cycle. I'm sure this isn't supposed to happen but I'm not well versed enough with the wiring diagram to figure it out. If anyone has ideas I'd appreciate it!

Secondly, although not a quirk, there was no spot to mount the coil relay except the one you can see I mounted it to in the picture. I'm unsure if this is too close to the heater yet. It's made of bakelite and steel, the heater is angled away from it and after a few loads there is no noticeable damage. I believe bakelite is quite heat resistant so I think this should be OK given the temperatures the dryer heats to isn't likely to exceed 250.
 
Wow you got a nice result! Congratulations! Does the door from the old lint filter fits over the hole? There are ling lint filters with a recessed handle available for dryers from the late 1960s and early/mid 1970s.

About your timer, does it stopped as supposed with the door closed? I'll have a look at mine to see how it behaves.
 
Thanks Phil - definitely not perfect but I'm still happy with the result. Yes the lint filter cover from the old machine does fit over the opening perfectly. I think the style of lint filter that was used with models that had a separate cover are still available.

As for the timer, yes it does stop at the off position when the machine is running and the door is closed. However, when its in the off position and the door opens the timer motor starts again. The timer part # is 348316.

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James, I just looked at my dryer and the timer motor does stop when the timer goes to off. It advances when the door is opened but not once it's at the "off" position.

My timer has a different part number and connectors in different locations but it's probably similar in function to yours or interchangeable with it.

The first thing I'd suggest you to check with a multimeter (with the dryer disconnected) is the continuity between the neutral prong of the plug (the "L" shaped one) and the TM1 terminal of the timer (on the upper left corner) with the door closed and with the door opened. You should see that there's continuity when the door is closed but not when it is opened. I think that's your problem and that the neutral side of the timer remains energized when the door is opened. If that seems fine, do the same test with the ground prong of the dryer plug to see what happens (since Canadian dryers have separate ground and neutral connections).

That could be caused by a faulty switch or a neutral wire that's shorted to the ground between the door switch and the timer. Since I think it had the same issue you described before I removed the wiring from the old dryer, I'd suspect the door switch first. How did you adapt the switch to the new dryer? I thought both styles must have been different since the hinges are.

The door switch also cuts the continuity between the "TM" terminal of the timer and one of the "hot" prongs of the dryer plug when the door is closed.

The timer itself should cut the continuity between the "Y" contact and the "TM" contact at the "off" positions on the dial.

If I'm not mistaken, in both the timed and automatic cycles, the timer goes into 3 steps and makes 3 audible "clicks" at the end of the cycle after the third click at the end of both cycles, there should be no continuity between the "Y" contact and the "TM" contact.

I hope I didn't mix things up as I'm a bit tired as I write this (It's now past 4 AM here!)

Here are 3 pictures of my Whirlpool dryer's timer. The 4th and 5th ones are pictures I took of yours. [this post was last edited: 5/30/2015-03:46]

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Tony, it's true that the light from germ lights is bad for our eyes but most dryers (and washers!) that use them use the drum/tub illumination light as a ballast for the germ light so they come on together when the machine works and when the dryer's door is opened.



 



 



 

 

The exception is some late-model Frigidaire Filtrator dryers that use the door heater as a ballast for the germ light instead of the drum light. So in these, the germ light only comes on when the door is closed (or when the door switch is!)

 

(click on the picture to see the video)

 

[this post was last edited: 5/30/2015-10:46]
 
You were right Phil....

There is continuity between the neutral wire and the TM1 terminal both with the door open and closed. Therefore I expect this is likely a door switch issue.

To answer your question about the door switch.....it fit as is into the newer style door frame without any modification. The height (when looking at it directly from the switch side) is the same on this 5 terminal switch as the standard switch, it's just the depth that's different so it doesn't have any impact on the fitting into the actuator assembly.

The PN stamped on the switch is 298800 which subs to 239453 at $36. I found one in stock locally but there is also a Gemline version, PN: 16400 which I think I can get from a supplier I know so might try that first.

Interesting to note that it appears the timer may have been replaced at some point. Service documentation indicates the PN to be 298972 however the one in the machine is 348316. As such I'm going to check the wiring one more time too (all switch wiring is correct however)....
 
James,
Before you order a new switch, if you want to make sure it's really what's causing the problem (and not the wiring itself or something else that I might have missed), you should just disconnect the wires from it, (one at a time, and isolate the terminal with a piece of tape), to make sure removing one of the wires makes the timer motor stop when the door is opened... I never had such a problem or replaced one of those switches so I can't tell you more!
 
Just to close the loop on this....

in case anyone ever has the same issue, it was in fact the door switch. I purchased a Gemline version, PN 164000 that I located locally and the timer no longer runs in the off position with the door open. The replacement door switch had six terminals instead of five but I just capped off the sixth terminal that wasn't used on the original

While I had it apart again I also replaced the rollers, idler pulley and front glide bearing / felt seal. Runs like it's brand spanking new again!

I'm still on the lookout for a metal door handle so if anyone has one for sale please get in touch!

Thanks for everyone's help :)
 
Thanks James for the update!

I'm happy to learn that the switch was indeed the problem and that you were able to adapt a replacement.

Now you certainly have a unique dryer, one that probably performs better than the original ever did and that looks like the perfect match for your washer!!
 
for the record

lots of posts say a 40 watt incandescent bulb works as the ballast for the ozone bulb, but my 1959 Whirlpool dryer for some reason needs a 60 watt, then the ozone bulbs comes on with a nice blue light.
 

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