URGENT: My '57 GE Combination -- Is it Done For?
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Many thanks to Ben for sharing his scanned service manual!
I was able to remove the condenser fan motor, but I see no way to take the housing apart in order to replace its crispy cord. It looks as if the two sections have been pressed together.
I can't find a part number on the housing. Just this: 5K51AL24D. Per the service manual, this is a two-phase motor, and as was stated further up, the cord has three conductors, black, white, and green. They connect to the relay as follows:
Green = Terminal 1, shared with Blue wire from the guardette
White = Terminal 2, shared with White wire from compressor start terminal
Black = Unnamed, possibly AKA Terminal 4 --shared with the power cord and either common or run wire from the compressor, I can't be sure.
New aftermarket replacement fan motors only have two conductors (as seen in Paul's picture). I guess I'm OK with that, and it looks like placement of the holes for the mounting screws is standard. Unless there's a way to get the existing fan motor apart, this may be the best solution for the fan.
Now here's the interesting thing I discovered. When pulling the green fan wire connector off the relay, the whole blade it slid onto was moving around. The screw holding this blade and the wire from the guardette was slightly loose. Could this have been the source of the trouble? It would be just my luck that tightening one screw would have fixed the problem and left the fan and its wiring undisturbed.
I was able to remove the condenser fan motor, but I see no way to take the housing apart in order to replace its crispy cord. It looks as if the two sections have been pressed together.
I can't find a part number on the housing. Just this: 5K51AL24D. Per the service manual, this is a two-phase motor, and as was stated further up, the cord has three conductors, black, white, and green. They connect to the relay as follows:
Green = Terminal 1, shared with Blue wire from the guardette
White = Terminal 2, shared with White wire from compressor start terminal
Black = Unnamed, possibly AKA Terminal 4 --shared with the power cord and either common or run wire from the compressor, I can't be sure.
New aftermarket replacement fan motors only have two conductors (as seen in Paul's picture). I guess I'm OK with that, and it looks like placement of the holes for the mounting screws is standard. Unless there's a way to get the existing fan motor apart, this may be the best solution for the fan.
Now here's the interesting thing I discovered. When pulling the green fan wire connector off the relay, the whole blade it slid onto was moving around. The screw holding this blade and the wire from the guardette was slightly loose. Could this have been the source of the trouble? It would be just my luck that tightening one screw would have fixed the problem and left the fan and its wiring undisturbed.
I went ahead and snipped the fan motor cord near the strain relief and spliced/soldered on a new section with black, white and green conductors. I feel fairly confident that the old wiring I spliced onto won't short out.
I'll still look for a replacement fan, but I know anything new will fail well before 62 years go by. If I can hold out for a NOS 2-phase motor I will. I don't even know the difference between 2-phase and single phase, or why GE thought two-phase was a better idea.
If I do end up with a single phase replacement, is it safe to assume the black and white leads are interchangeable? Everything I've seen has a standard tandem black cord. And if there's no third (green) wire from the fan motor, should I assume that the blue wire from the guardette will live by itself on relay terminal #1 and the fan will still operate properly?
As for the replacement relay, I noticed it has no mounting piece like the existing relay, so I guess it will just hang or lay somewhere like a Supco would.
I'll still look for a replacement fan, but I know anything new will fail well before 62 years go by. If I can hold out for a NOS 2-phase motor I will. I don't even know the difference between 2-phase and single phase, or why GE thought two-phase was a better idea.
If I do end up with a single phase replacement, is it safe to assume the black and white leads are interchangeable? Everything I've seen has a standard tandem black cord. And if there's no third (green) wire from the fan motor, should I assume that the blue wire from the guardette will live by itself on relay terminal #1 and the fan will still operate properly?
As for the replacement relay, I noticed it has no mounting piece like the existing relay, so I guess it will just hang or lay somewhere like a Supco would.
Question regarding brittle wires - has anyone simply slid some heat shrink tubing over the crispy insulation? Add a little heat and it should be as good as new. Might be easier than stripping and soldering.
turquoisedude
Well-known member
Yes! I did that on the drive motor of my '53 Westinghouse washer because I didn't feel competent enough to replace the wiring. That might work in this case!
Replacement Condenser Fan Motor For A 57 GE Ref
Hi Ralph, you can use almost any two wire motor, WPs PT# is 833697 for example we usually have these around because they sell them in quantity to servicers for around $11.00.
GE originally used the 3 wire 2 phase motor because it had more starting torque and used less power once it started, the compressors relay also started the fan motor.
The orignal 3 wire motor drew around 30 watts when running, most 2 wire CFMs drew around 45 watts, new electronic ECM motors today only draw around 5 watts toady, I always like putting these new ECM motors in all my rebuild projects, but lets not make this any more complicated.
The new 2 wire motor will just get connected to two of the orignal leads [ I am not sure which two as we don't do this repair that often any longer, I would always just test which set is hot when the compressor is running ]
John L.
Hi Ralph, you can use almost any two wire motor, WPs PT# is 833697 for example we usually have these around because they sell them in quantity to servicers for around $11.00.
GE originally used the 3 wire 2 phase motor because it had more starting torque and used less power once it started, the compressors relay also started the fan motor.
The orignal 3 wire motor drew around 30 watts when running, most 2 wire CFMs drew around 45 watts, new electronic ECM motors today only draw around 5 watts toady, I always like putting these new ECM motors in all my rebuild projects, but lets not make this any more complicated.
The new 2 wire motor will just get connected to two of the orignal leads [ I am not sure which two as we don't do this repair that often any longer, I would always just test which set is hot when the compressor is running ]
John L.
Thanks John, I'm going to test my fan motor repair today. I'll use a power strip with a breaker in it, and plug that into a GFI outlet.
Matt and Paul, I had thought about a way to re-insulate the wiring but didn't know that heat-shrink tubing was a thing. I'm not sure if it would have been any better than electrical tape, as the sort of twine material in the fan's cord makes the whole repair process difficult. If the motor shorts out when I test it, I'll either go back to square one and give heat-shrink a try (I hope it comes in at least three colors) or buy a new fan and replace per John's input.
Can I assume that a new motor designated as a GE replacement (for refrigerators a lot younger than a '57 Combination) will have mounting holes in the same places as the current one?
Matt and Paul, I had thought about a way to re-insulate the wiring but didn't know that heat-shrink tubing was a thing. I'm not sure if it would have been any better than electrical tape, as the sort of twine material in the fan's cord makes the whole repair process difficult. If the motor shorts out when I test it, I'll either go back to square one and give heat-shrink a try (I hope it comes in at least three colors) or buy a new fan and replace per John's input.
Can I assume that a new motor designated as a GE replacement (for refrigerators a lot younger than a '57 Combination) will have mounting holes in the same places as the current one?
The Fan Is Toast
I tested the fan motor on a GFI outlet, using only the black and white leads from the motor. Dead. But apparently not dead enough to keep from tripping the outlet. I'm sure this is about the crispy wires deeper into the sheathing than I could reach.
Now the question is, if I buy a replacement motor, how can I be sure the blade will mount on it? The existing blade has two tabs near the center mounting hole and they fit into a component of the motor that doesn't exist on replacement motors. Do I just flatten those tabs? I was surprised to find that the blade is fastened to the motor with a simple zip nut.
I tested the fan motor on a GFI outlet, using only the black and white leads from the motor. Dead. But apparently not dead enough to keep from tripping the outlet. I'm sure this is about the crispy wires deeper into the sheathing than I could reach.
Now the question is, if I buy a replacement motor, how can I be sure the blade will mount on it? The existing blade has two tabs near the center mounting hole and they fit into a component of the motor that doesn't exist on replacement motors. Do I just flatten those tabs? I was surprised to find that the blade is fastened to the motor with a simple zip nut.
Replacement Condenser Fan Motor
Will it fit a 57 GE ref ?, Hi Ralph, I though I said it would in my reply # 35 if you use a WP 833697, there are also GE Pt#s that fit as well, these fan motors are one of the most universal parts out there, this WP part literally will fit billions of different refs built from 1950 through many new models roiling off assembly lines now.
John
Will it fit a 57 GE ref ?, Hi Ralph, I though I said it would in my reply # 35 if you use a WP 833697, there are also GE Pt#s that fit as well, these fan motors are one of the most universal parts out there, this WP part literally will fit billions of different refs built from 1950 through many new models roiling off assembly lines now.
John
Thanks John. It's been a hectic day between trips to the DMV (because their web site is so lame) and the usual responsibilities for Dave, so I'm feeling kind of like a human pinball. I completely spaced out on the information you shared above.
The relay arrived today (it's bigger than the original), so now it's just the fan that's holding me up. I don't know if I can test the relay without the fan connected, so won't do anything until I have a replacement fan motor.
I'm familiar with those old WP fan motors since replacing the one on my mom's '75 Coldspot. As long as the mounting holes match up, I'm good with anything that will be compatible. I've bought a motor that appears identical (except for that 3rd wire) with WP PN 833697 so now I just have to wait for it to get here. Thanks again.
[this post was last edited: 2/28/2019-00:22]
The relay arrived today (it's bigger than the original), so now it's just the fan that's holding me up. I don't know if I can test the relay without the fan connected, so won't do anything until I have a replacement fan motor.
I'm familiar with those old WP fan motors since replacing the one on my mom's '75 Coldspot. As long as the mounting holes match up, I'm good with anything that will be compatible. I've bought a motor that appears identical (except for that 3rd wire) with WP PN 833697 so now I just have to wait for it to get here. Thanks again.
[this post was last edited: 2/28/2019-00:22]
R I Prius
I'm sad to say that a new relay didn't fix the problem. The compressor tries to kick in -- rattling to a start -- and then clicks off, like maybe there's a problem with its "run" circuitry. The more it tries, the shorter the attempts.
As much as I've enjoyed using this refrigerator, I can't justify the cost of replacing the compressor and it would be difficult to find anyone locally to do the job even if I wanted to.
This coming June would have marked nine years since Nate and I buzzed up to Reno and picked this thing up after RCD had hauled it back to his shop as a filthy "cash for clunkers" garage fridge surrender. Apparently it has decided to quit at 62. Not a bad run at all, and by today's standards, flat out impossible. It was fun while it lasted.
[this post was last edited: 3/3/2019-14:49]
I'm sad to say that a new relay didn't fix the problem. The compressor tries to kick in -- rattling to a start -- and then clicks off, like maybe there's a problem with its "run" circuitry. The more it tries, the shorter the attempts.
As much as I've enjoyed using this refrigerator, I can't justify the cost of replacing the compressor and it would be difficult to find anyone locally to do the job even if I wanted to.
This coming June would have marked nine years since Nate and I buzzed up to Reno and picked this thing up after RCD had hauled it back to his shop as a filthy "cash for clunkers" garage fridge surrender. Apparently it has decided to quit at 62. Not a bad run at all, and by today's standards, flat out impossible. It was fun while it lasted.
[this post was last edited: 3/3/2019-14:49]
Awe man. Sorry that the relay wasn't the problem.
It seems that this style of compressor has a somewhat finite life to it. There have been so many similar sad stories on the site about them.
They should have kept the scotch-yoke compressor; as the CK Monitor Top and several others have. I just got one going for someone. It's 83 years old and still runs and sounds like new.
This person has been trying for 2 years to get someone to fix it. The wiring was crumbly and the control sensing tube had been broken. Should be fairly simple to get that done but all the service companies act like you're asking them to overhaul a flying saucer when you mention a MT fridge.
It seems that this style of compressor has a somewhat finite life to it. There have been so many similar sad stories on the site about them.
They should have kept the scotch-yoke compressor; as the CK Monitor Top and several others have. I just got one going for someone. It's 83 years old and still runs and sounds like new.
This person has been trying for 2 years to get someone to fix it. The wiring was crumbly and the control sensing tube had been broken. Should be fairly simple to get that done but all the service companies act like you're asking them to overhaul a flying saucer when you mention a MT fridge.
Thanks David.
I knew when I got this fridge that it wasn't going to last forever. Since I have the room for one (no need for a shoulder hinge type), I'm open to an older GE Combination as long as it has a drain in the freezer, as that makes defrosting a cinch. The ones from the late '40s and early '50s seem to run forever, and they show up on CL now and then. I don't know what I'll use in the meantime, but I hope to find a temporary fridge soon. The Combination was always well stocked with a full shelf of sodas and another one full of bottled beer. We've had a drinks fridge of one kind or another for about 30 years.
One other thing I forgot to mention was that when the compressor tried to kick in, the condenser fan did too, but cut out. This makes me think that the fault lies with the "run" wiring. All connections to the compressor are good.
As much as I hate to do it, I'm going to have to offer this fridge up for free to whoever wants to haul it off. I don't have room to harvest parts off of it and store them, so away it has to go. I'm so bummed.
I knew when I got this fridge that it wasn't going to last forever. Since I have the room for one (no need for a shoulder hinge type), I'm open to an older GE Combination as long as it has a drain in the freezer, as that makes defrosting a cinch. The ones from the late '40s and early '50s seem to run forever, and they show up on CL now and then. I don't know what I'll use in the meantime, but I hope to find a temporary fridge soon. The Combination was always well stocked with a full shelf of sodas and another one full of bottled beer. We've had a drinks fridge of one kind or another for about 30 years.
One other thing I forgot to mention was that when the compressor tried to kick in, the condenser fan did too, but cut out. This makes me think that the fault lies with the "run" wiring. All connections to the compressor are good.
As much as I hate to do it, I'm going to have to offer this fridge up for free to whoever wants to haul it off. I don't have room to harvest parts off of it and store them, so away it has to go. I'm so bummed.
Ralph, I am sorry to hear that you were not able to get your fridge working again. If you change your mind about parts and are willing to ship, let me know. I would be interested in your door shelves. Hopefully you will find another vintage refrigerator that brings you as much joy. Jeannine
Hi Ralph, Sorry to hear that the compressor is shot, I just wish that I was closer [ or someone else that can diagnose refrigerator problems ] it only takes someone like David or I 10-15 minutes to figure out why the compressor was having problems starting with a few simple tests.
It is normal that the condenser fan motor would start running and then cut off, the CFM on GE refs is wired through the compressors thermal cutoff so as soon as the CO trips it also kills power to the CFM.
John
It is normal that the condenser fan motor would start running and then cut off, the CFM on GE refs is wired through the compressors thermal cutoff so as soon as the CO trips it also kills power to the CFM.
John
Yeah John, I unplugged the replacement CFM once I saw that it wouldn't run if the compressor wasn't running too. I never bothered to mount it.
I think the buzzing I had been hearing for a week or two was an indicator of something (other than the relay) that was frying itself. The compression part of the mechanicals was keeping everything nice and cold until the end, so I'm pretty sure it was wiring/windings that failed.
Of course, there's nothing interesting out there for sale right now, and I've been looking since the buzzing started. The only thing that's a remote contender is a mid '80s WP BF model, but I'd prefer something older and more efficient, unless it's a later Frost Guard Combo, which I would grant an energy hog exception . It's primarily a drinks fridge, so it doesn't need to be huge, and another frosts-freely type would be OK.
Off hand, would anyone here know if the earlier ('54 and older) Combinations had gliding shelves and if they're counter depth like my '57 (24" not including the handles)? Shelves that glide would be an OK compromise.
I think the buzzing I had been hearing for a week or two was an indicator of something (other than the relay) that was frying itself. The compression part of the mechanicals was keeping everything nice and cold until the end, so I'm pretty sure it was wiring/windings that failed.
Of course, there's nothing interesting out there for sale right now, and I've been looking since the buzzing started. The only thing that's a remote contender is a mid '80s WP BF model, but I'd prefer something older and more efficient, unless it's a later Frost Guard Combo, which I would grant an energy hog exception . It's primarily a drinks fridge, so it doesn't need to be huge, and another frosts-freely type would be OK.
Off hand, would anyone here know if the earlier ('54 and older) Combinations had gliding shelves and if they're counter depth like my '57 (24" not including the handles)? Shelves that glide would be an OK compromise.
Ralph, did you make a recording of the "buzzing" sound so that we could have this to compare to other possible failures on other units?
David, sorry, but I didn't record the buzzing. I'm not much of a cell phone user for anything besides calls, texts, and pictures.
The buzzing was kind of high pitched and sounded like your average noisy compressor that just runs like that normally, but I knew it wasn't a normal sound for what had been a quiet GE.
I'm posting this picture for Jeannine, who has a '56 GE, to see if there's much from the interior that might have a chance of fitting her fridge. Due to radical design changes for 1957, I'm not so sure much of it is backward compatible.
The buzzing was kind of high pitched and sounded like your average noisy compressor that just runs like that normally, but I knew it wasn't a normal sound for what had been a quiet GE.
I'm posting this picture for Jeannine, who has a '56 GE, to see if there's much from the interior that might have a chance of fitting her fridge. Due to radical design changes for 1957, I'm not so sure much of it is backward compatible.
Good Picture Of Your 57 Combination Ralph
That is the exact ref my Aunt Arline had in Elisabethtown Pa. When they built a new custom home in 1966 they moved it to the new homes kitchen, hers made it till the early 1970-2 time period before its compressor wore out and was replaced with a FD top freezer model which had its IM repaired at least every year till it was replaced with a WP in the mid 90s.
John L.
That is the exact ref my Aunt Arline had in Elisabethtown Pa. When they built a new custom home in 1966 they moved it to the new homes kitchen, hers made it till the early 1970-2 time period before its compressor wore out and was replaced with a FD top freezer model which had its IM repaired at least every year till it was replaced with a WP in the mid 90s.
John L.
That shot was among a few I took during initial clean-up after hauling it home from Reno in June of 2010.
I wish I could donate this box to an appliance junk yard for parting out (if there was such a thing), as there are many good, hard-to-find parts on it.
One thing I don't have to hunt down anymore is the two knurled fasteners for the bottom grille (grille not seen in the picture above). I always had to get out the socket wrench to remove the bolts that were holding the grille in place when I vacuumed the condenser.
Now it's time to find another interesting fridge for beer and soda. I had gotten used to a little extra zero-degree freezer space off the kitchen, but the basement Penncrest freezer has room to spare, so maybe something smaller and single door is the way to go. I need counter depth again due to the spot where the drinks fridge is located. The Combination was such a perfect fit there.
I wish I could donate this box to an appliance junk yard for parting out (if there was such a thing), as there are many good, hard-to-find parts on it.
One thing I don't have to hunt down anymore is the two knurled fasteners for the bottom grille (grille not seen in the picture above). I always had to get out the socket wrench to remove the bolts that were holding the grille in place when I vacuumed the condenser.
Now it's time to find another interesting fridge for beer and soda. I had gotten used to a little extra zero-degree freezer space off the kitchen, but the basement Penncrest freezer has room to spare, so maybe something smaller and single door is the way to go. I need counter depth again due to the spot where the drinks fridge is located. The Combination was such a perfect fit there.
Ralph,
Here are pictures of the interior to my '56. You can see the bottom piece beneath the drawers is broken, so I would love an intact piece to replace. However, I'm not sure if yours will work, and how much work it would be just to remove that one.
I've also attached pictures of the inside of the doors so you can see how the configuration of the "steps" that the shelves lay on, and also the shelves themselves. It does look like they are a match, except for the color.
You'll also see the rubber piece that fits on the back where the drain tube attaches. I could use another one of those.
Here are pictures of the interior to my '56. You can see the bottom piece beneath the drawers is broken, so I would love an intact piece to replace. However, I'm not sure if yours will work, and how much work it would be just to remove that one.
I've also attached pictures of the inside of the doors so you can see how the configuration of the "steps" that the shelves lay on, and also the shelves themselves. It does look like they are a match, except for the color.
You'll also see the rubber piece that fits on the back where the drain tube attaches. I could use another one of those.
Jeannine, that exterior drain in picture 5 of 5 isn't applicable to the two-door Combinations from 1957 on -- at least not on top freezer models.
Unlike your '56, the '57 and later Combinations have a clean back with condenser coils underneath, which are cooled using what GE called a "forced draft" system with a fan that draws air across the coils from one side of the front grille and routes it out the other side after passing over the drip pan to speed evaporation of condensate (this same system is still widely used on the various makes of refrigerator-freezers today). Drain tubing like what you have pictured would have the potential to be smashed against the wall if paired with a clean back design.
With a bottom freezer arrangement like your '56 has, I'm not sure how the condensate drains from the freezer, but I would assume it drops directly into the same pan as that crumbling tubing routes the condensate to from the fresh food section. How the condensate drain for the fresh food section serpentine coil is routed on bottom freezer models for '57 and later, I don't know.
Unlike your '56, the '57 and later Combinations have a clean back with condenser coils underneath, which are cooled using what GE called a "forced draft" system with a fan that draws air across the coils from one side of the front grille and routes it out the other side after passing over the drip pan to speed evaporation of condensate (this same system is still widely used on the various makes of refrigerator-freezers today). Drain tubing like what you have pictured would have the potential to be smashed against the wall if paired with a clean back design.
With a bottom freezer arrangement like your '56 has, I'm not sure how the condensate drains from the freezer, but I would assume it drops directly into the same pan as that crumbling tubing routes the condensate to from the fresh food section. How the condensate drain for the fresh food section serpentine coil is routed on bottom freezer models for '57 and later, I don't know.
John, David, Anyone?
There's an HVAC guy on my local Nextdoor board who may know someone who would be willing to change out the compressor with a modern replacement.
Can anyone direct me to a site where I can price out a replacement, or provide details on the type of compressor to look for? I would need to ballpark a figure for parts and labor to see if it's worth doing.
One of my concerns is that the existing compressor is a long cylinder shape, and that a replacement would be tough to fit into the same spot. Also, since the existing compressor has four terminals, how is that addressed with a new compressor?
There's an HVAC guy on my local Nextdoor board who may know someone who would be willing to change out the compressor with a modern replacement.
Can anyone direct me to a site where I can price out a replacement, or provide details on the type of compressor to look for? I would need to ballpark a figure for parts and labor to see if it's worth doing.
One of my concerns is that the existing compressor is a long cylinder shape, and that a replacement would be tough to fit into the same spot. Also, since the existing compressor has four terminals, how is that addressed with a new compressor?
Compressors...
Hey great that you're planning to get this fixed!
I haven't done much experimentation with modern compressor swaps because I have been fortunate enough to locate original used ones.
A new Embraco compressor can be had for about $75 on eBay Here is one example: https://www.ebay.com/itm/273308564397
The 80 or 100 series Embraco compressors are roughly the right capacity for a full size side-by-side fridge.
You will also need a dryer for the system to catch any wear materials from the old compressor. Those are very inexpensive as well, about $10.
From what I have gathered reading online and talking to people "in the know" it is a good idea to add a little extra oil to a modern compressor on any older model refrigerator. This is because the older systems may trap a larger, and more variable amount of oil in the lines. The new compressor will have an oil specification from which the oil type can be obtained.
I wish I could offer more info but at this time, I just haven't done much experimentation with these.
Sincerely,
David
Hey great that you're planning to get this fixed!
I haven't done much experimentation with modern compressor swaps because I have been fortunate enough to locate original used ones.
A new Embraco compressor can be had for about $75 on eBay Here is one example: https://www.ebay.com/itm/273308564397
The 80 or 100 series Embraco compressors are roughly the right capacity for a full size side-by-side fridge.
You will also need a dryer for the system to catch any wear materials from the old compressor. Those are very inexpensive as well, about $10.
From what I have gathered reading online and talking to people "in the know" it is a good idea to add a little extra oil to a modern compressor on any older model refrigerator. This is because the older systems may trap a larger, and more variable amount of oil in the lines. The new compressor will have an oil specification from which the oil type can be obtained.
I wish I could offer more info but at this time, I just haven't done much experimentation with these.
Sincerely,
David
As an eBay Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
You might try a used appliance store for help. I went into one here and the guy changes out many compressors while refurbishing different brands and sizes of used refrigerators they get in for resale. It would be a little out of their normal line of work, but for the right price, they might assist you.
Embraco Question
I'm interested in pursuing the Embraco option but have questions: Are these compressors relatively quiet? The shot GE compressor was barely audible. If an Embraco will sound like one of those noisy "True" brand self-serve beverage refrigerators as found in most hole-in-the-wall eateries, that will be a deal-breaker.
Also, is any sort of adaptive mounting hardware going to be required? The GE compressor is oblong, while the Embraco is a more standard shape.
I really don't want the Combo to end up as a rattle trap.
I'm going to talk to the knowledgeable guy at my nearby independent appliance parts store (same guy who recognized the bake element for my mom's '49 Westinghouse range as soon as I walked through the door), but thought I'd ask the experts here first.
I'm interested in pursuing the Embraco option but have questions: Are these compressors relatively quiet? The shot GE compressor was barely audible. If an Embraco will sound like one of those noisy "True" brand self-serve beverage refrigerators as found in most hole-in-the-wall eateries, that will be a deal-breaker.
Also, is any sort of adaptive mounting hardware going to be required? The GE compressor is oblong, while the Embraco is a more standard shape.
I really don't want the Combo to end up as a rattle trap.
I'm going to talk to the knowledgeable guy at my nearby independent appliance parts store (same guy who recognized the bake element for my mom's '49 Westinghouse range as soon as I walked through the door), but thought I'd ask the experts here first.
Newer Compressor For A 57 GE Combination
Embracos are very quiet, there used to be an adptor mounting kit sold that allowed you to easily replace the old style GE compressors, My Brother Jeff used one when he installed a new Tecumseh compressor in my 1960 GE upright Frost Guard freezer 35 years ago [ it still works great ] but I stopped using it at our house about 5 years ago because it used way too much power and made the pantry too warm.
The GE FGF is at the museum now and is only turned on for events at the warehouse where we need to keep a lot of frozen food.
John
Embracos are very quiet, there used to be an adptor mounting kit sold that allowed you to easily replace the old style GE compressors, My Brother Jeff used one when he installed a new Tecumseh compressor in my 1960 GE upright Frost Guard freezer 35 years ago [ it still works great ] but I stopped using it at our house about 5 years ago because it used way too much power and made the pantry too warm.
The GE FGF is at the museum now and is only turned on for events at the warehouse where we need to keep a lot of frozen food.
John
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