Vintage Electrolux Dishmaid 1960
- Thread starter ricky5050
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Hi thanks Gary i contacted the ebayer and he agrees thats a great match and made by AEG too so maybe a bit more reliable than the Hunts one so its bought and paid for.
Simon Hi yes the Bendix lower wash arm mounting fractured and then the door handle broke so it became a krypton factor to open and use it and keep on gluing it.I bought a BEKO as it was cheap but i have to say its very good , amazing quick 30 min wash that cleans very well., but i look forward to getting the dishmaid up and running for quick loads etc. The plug on the kettle came with it i suspect who ever bought it new probably swapped it from their old kettle , perhaps it being a non automatic one and with some vintage sockets not being switched this plug has a built in switch on the top. Its just a guess but it may be true.
Thanks Brent i will try and get more vids and some scans of the brochure.
Richard
Ps second vid showing basket
Hi thanks Gary i contacted the ebayer and he agrees thats a great match and made by AEG too so maybe a bit more reliable than the Hunts one so its bought and paid for.
Simon Hi yes the Bendix lower wash arm mounting fractured and then the door handle broke so it became a krypton factor to open and use it and keep on gluing it.I bought a BEKO as it was cheap but i have to say its very good , amazing quick 30 min wash that cleans very well., but i look forward to getting the dishmaid up and running for quick loads etc. The plug on the kettle came with it i suspect who ever bought it new probably swapped it from their old kettle , perhaps it being a non automatic one and with some vintage sockets not being switched this plug has a built in switch on the top. Its just a guess but it may be true.
Thanks Brent i will try and get more vids and some scans of the brochure.
Richard
Ps second vid showing basket
last video
here is my last vid in the bath! the racks stick a bit because its not balanced without being in the cabinet, i hope it will work ok when its up and running again.
Richard
here is my last vid in the bath! the racks stick a bit because its not balanced without being in the cabinet, i hope it will work ok when its up and running again.
Richard
Electrolux news Spring 1961
front cover showing their latest invention.
Not sure i'll do the skirt and pose tho!
front cover showing their latest invention.
Not sure i'll do the skirt and pose tho!
instruction book
pg 1
pg 1
appliancelou
Well-known member
great find
hey ricky what a great dishwasher!! wish you the best of luck with it hope everything works out for you with the parts thanks so much for sharing this with all of us here looking forward to more videos on this !
hey ricky what a great dishwasher!! wish you the best of luck with it hope everything works out for you with the parts thanks so much for sharing this with all of us here looking forward to more videos on this !
Hey Richard,
Congrats on the "Dishmaid"...fantastic looking, a friend of mine has one, of which he uses it quite a lot. The cleaning power is ok, but not over great, but still funky unit.
Following your recent posting of the "Electrolux News" does this artical have and reference to a twin tub that Electrolux launched in the early 60's called a "Lec-matic" ???
Cheers Keith
Congrats on the "Dishmaid"...fantastic looking, a friend of mine has one, of which he uses it quite a lot. The cleaning power is ok, but not over great, but still funky unit.
Following your recent posting of the "Electrolux News" does this artical have and reference to a twin tub that Electrolux launched in the early 60's called a "Lec-matic" ???
Cheers Keith
thanks
Hi Appliance Lou and Keith , thanks i hope it will be up and running soon. The electrolux mag has no reference to washing machines i think certainly no pictures , its mainly about the Electrolux plant in Ireland and the test centre where fridges and vacuums are put through edurance tests.
Richard
Hi Appliance Lou and Keith , thanks i hope it will be up and running soon. The electrolux mag has no reference to washing machines i think certainly no pictures , its mainly about the Electrolux plant in Ireland and the test centre where fridges and vacuums are put through edurance tests.
Richard
LuxMaid
Great find there Richard, never seen them over here, only in the consumer mags!!! Do you have a pic of how big the motor is and where the capacitor sits etc??
How are the seals??, have tried using a smearing of transluscent mastic on some old stuff and it seams to work rather them break up any sooner!! i`m sure there must be a firm that makes all beading seals like this, we just need to find them!!
What is the knob on the bottom for?? Cheers, Mike
Great find there Richard, never seen them over here, only in the consumer mags!!! Do you have a pic of how big the motor is and where the capacitor sits etc??
How are the seals??, have tried using a smearing of transluscent mastic on some old stuff and it seams to work rather them break up any sooner!! i`m sure there must be a firm that makes all beading seals like this, we just need to find them!!
What is the knob on the bottom for?? Cheers, Mike
Hi Mike
Hi
I was hoping to up load the instruction book but when i scanned it in it was too big. Its a simple description of how it works.
The rubber seals are fine, The one around its waist is more like a bumper and only covers the join in the cabinet but is not needed for water. The opening edges did have rubber seals but these were well beyond saving but they again are not really needed for water tightness. I will order some replacements from the link below i have had things from them before. they only come in black but it will finish off the edges. The only things that needed replacement was the drain elbow and bung. it was designed so the drain pipe could be to the left or right by swapping a bung for the drain elbow. I used toilet blanking discs and elbows to replace these.
I dont have any photos of the motor but its tiny smaller than a vacuum !
The knob on the bottom slides left or right and opens and closes the drain valve.
You basically connect a hose to the hot tap which goes in to the back of the machine directly into the sump.
To use you turn on the hot tap , switch on the motor and leave the drain open, after a minute the hot water has warmed the dishes and pre rinsed any dirt down the drain. keeping the hot water on you close the drain and when it starts to trickle out of the over flow pipe down the drain you know its at the right level. switch off the tap , sprinkle powder in the opening in the door and let it run for 5 or so minutes. To rinse do the same with the drain open for a minute or 2 and squirt in some rinse aid and run it a minute and switch off machine water and open drain.
Here hoping it will go!
Richard
Hi
I was hoping to up load the instruction book but when i scanned it in it was too big. Its a simple description of how it works.
The rubber seals are fine, The one around its waist is more like a bumper and only covers the join in the cabinet but is not needed for water. The opening edges did have rubber seals but these were well beyond saving but they again are not really needed for water tightness. I will order some replacements from the link below i have had things from them before. they only come in black but it will finish off the edges. The only things that needed replacement was the drain elbow and bung. it was designed so the drain pipe could be to the left or right by swapping a bung for the drain elbow. I used toilet blanking discs and elbows to replace these.
I dont have any photos of the motor but its tiny smaller than a vacuum !
The knob on the bottom slides left or right and opens and closes the drain valve.
You basically connect a hose to the hot tap which goes in to the back of the machine directly into the sump.
To use you turn on the hot tap , switch on the motor and leave the drain open, after a minute the hot water has warmed the dishes and pre rinsed any dirt down the drain. keeping the hot water on you close the drain and when it starts to trickle out of the over flow pipe down the drain you know its at the right level. switch off the tap , sprinkle powder in the opening in the door and let it run for 5 or so minutes. To rinse do the same with the drain open for a minute or 2 and squirt in some rinse aid and run it a minute and switch off machine water and open drain.
Here hoping it will go!
Richard
Bang!
Well i got the new capacitor today and after fitting it i tried the machine, it ran again for about 10 seconds then ke bang! exactly the same as before.
Do capacitors look damaged if the y have blown up , both the old and new look ok but as it only re started with the new one im guessing the old one was faulty , but now thinking that something in the motor is causing them to blow.
Any ideas guys?
I'm wondering if there is a starter circuit in the motor that is perhaps jamming open, i know little about motors but if anyone in the UK know a good place where i can get motors repaired ill look in to it.
ah well
Richard
Well i got the new capacitor today and after fitting it i tried the machine, it ran again for about 10 seconds then ke bang! exactly the same as before.
Do capacitors look damaged if the y have blown up , both the old and new look ok but as it only re started with the new one im guessing the old one was faulty , but now thinking that something in the motor is causing them to blow.
Any ideas guys?
I'm wondering if there is a starter circuit in the motor that is perhaps jamming open, i know little about motors but if anyone in the UK know a good place where i can get motors repaired ill look in to it.
ah well
Richard
rolls_rapide
Well-known member
I would imagine that any qualified electrician worth his salt would be able to check the motor.
Are you sure that the motor is properly sealed against water penetration from the wash spray?
And is the insulation okay? (There might be a short circuit in the wiring).
You could get an electrical engineer to conduct an insulation test.
Are you sure that the motor is properly sealed against water penetration from the wash spray?
And is the insulation okay? (There might be a short circuit in the wiring).
You could get an electrical engineer to conduct an insulation test.
Grrr!
So annoying when you think you've sussed a repair but it doesn't work!
Richard, the only capacitors I've seen blown are the metal type found in Hoovers - sometimes the ends get blown out, also seen the capacitor can burst at its seam. There's also an electrical smell that lingers, and a sooty discharge round where it blew.
There is probably a centrifugal switch on the motor shaft. When the motor is switched on the switch is in the closed position, and energises a set of secondary windings at a different phase, inducing rotation. Once the motor is up to speed, the switch disengages as momentum keeps the motor going. A stuck switch can damage the secondary windings, maybe that's causing the big bangs?
Have you tried powering it up again? If you do it with the capacitor disconnected, the motor will hum but not turn, but if you give the rack a turn by hand (presuming you can disable the door switch) the motor should start running.
If there's a short somewhere you usually get sparking from the location of the short, was the machine dry both times? Have you been able to poke it with a multimeter at all?
Hope you can get this sorted, sure you will though!
Simon
So annoying when you think you've sussed a repair but it doesn't work!
Richard, the only capacitors I've seen blown are the metal type found in Hoovers - sometimes the ends get blown out, also seen the capacitor can burst at its seam. There's also an electrical smell that lingers, and a sooty discharge round where it blew.
There is probably a centrifugal switch on the motor shaft. When the motor is switched on the switch is in the closed position, and energises a set of secondary windings at a different phase, inducing rotation. Once the motor is up to speed, the switch disengages as momentum keeps the motor going. A stuck switch can damage the secondary windings, maybe that's causing the big bangs?
Have you tried powering it up again? If you do it with the capacitor disconnected, the motor will hum but not turn, but if you give the rack a turn by hand (presuming you can disable the door switch) the motor should start running.
If there's a short somewhere you usually get sparking from the location of the short, was the machine dry both times? Have you been able to poke it with a multimeter at all?
Hope you can get this sorted, sure you will though!
Simon
thanks Simon and Rolls
The machine was dry and empty each time and it doesnt really matter if it was or not, the design means the motor sits in the top of the cabinet in the silver container shown behind the blue plate in the loaded up pictures. it sits in a plastic container suspended by bakelite so it not connected to any metal parts of the machine, it doesnt have any earth wiring. The drive shaft goes down the centre to the mechanical pump and is connected via a plastic cooling fan so again anything metal or wet cannot touch the motor. This is why i think it will live long when working as there are no pump seals etc that can fail that would damage the motor.
both capacitors look fine and the has been no smell so unsure whats going on ill remove the motor and take photos and see if i can see any problem.
Cheers Richard
The machine was dry and empty each time and it doesnt really matter if it was or not, the design means the motor sits in the top of the cabinet in the silver container shown behind the blue plate in the loaded up pictures. it sits in a plastic container suspended by bakelite so it not connected to any metal parts of the machine, it doesnt have any earth wiring. The drive shaft goes down the centre to the mechanical pump and is connected via a plastic cooling fan so again anything metal or wet cannot touch the motor. This is why i think it will live long when working as there are no pump seals etc that can fail that would damage the motor.
both capacitors look fine and the has been no smell so unsure whats going on ill remove the motor and take photos and see if i can see any problem.
Cheers Richard
oops
Simon i forgot to say you cannot start up the motor by turning the rack, its designed to free wheel to load up plates, plus the mechanical cog bits dont turn only from the motor shaft due to the gearing but thanks for thinking about. I have not poked a meter at it as i wouldnt have a clue what to do and probably make a loud bang myself!
Richard
Simon i forgot to say you cannot start up the motor by turning the rack, its designed to free wheel to load up plates, plus the mechanical cog bits dont turn only from the motor shaft due to the gearing but thanks for thinking about. I have not poked a meter at it as i wouldnt have a clue what to do and probably make a loud bang myself!
Richard
