What Temperature Is Your Hot Water Heater Set ?

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The ones in the house were set at 150 but last year dropped them down to 140. didn't really notice a difference. During the winter when the boiler is on the water goes from that 40 gallon tank to a 50 gallon ge electric tank. At this time of the year when the boiler is off we just go with the 50 gallon electric. Actually much cheaper this way. electric is about 10.00 per month in summer for electric hot water and drops to 5 or 6 in the winter. Boiler does not need to be on so that drops my gas bill and the a/c doesn't need to run so much without the boiler on. The only thing running on gas in summer is the clothes dryer and that uses max of about 2 therms a month. Now at the hair salon we have 2 50 gallon tanks and are set about 110 degrees, supposedly by state law. In the winter they get kicked up to around 140 degrees cause our water is so cold here. With 5 shampoo sinks and a top loader ge washer that we only do hot washes because all of our towels are white, we go thru a lot of hot water.
Jon
Jon
 
Tom, If your 40 gallon tank runs out of hot water quickly, either the lower heating element is out or something is wrong with its thermostat.

Be sure that the circulation loop is well insulated, otherwise you will be losing heat through it and will be paying for lost heat on your electric bill. The most modern way to go with the pump control is a remote switch in the kitchen or bath that runs the pump for maybe a minute or two, just to bring hot water to the point of use.

Electric water heaters could be as fast as gas, but the power companies were afraid of the demand with two 4500 watt elements operating simultaneously in thousands of homes, usually at about the same times like when everyone is getting ready to leave the house in the morning. Wiring from the water heater all the way back to the power plant would have to be heavier so electric water heaters heat the top third or so of the tank to the desired setting using the top element which used to be 4500 watts in "quick recovery" water heaters, then switch to the lower element to heat the bottom 2/3s of the tank.

One of Carter's proposals for the energy crisis was that all new construction would have to heat a percentage of the hot water needs with solar, but Ray Gun came in with his fossils, I mean fossil fuel people, and scrapped all of that.
 
Legionella

Most cases in USA seem to come from air-conditioning systems, where there is a reservoir of stagnant water in the system that isn't maintained properly. Rare to contact it from cold tap water that hasn't stagnated.

Yes, most US tap water is chlorinated (or chloramines are added) though in March of this year, our local system changed to another method, I forgot the name of it. I don't know if chloramines were removed, or just reducted with the new disinfectant added. For a week in January, we were asked to conserve water because the central county plant was retooling its disinfection process and there would be no deliveries of water to the local water agencies.
 
I have hot water from the waterduct, it's supposed to be heated via co-generation but I'm not sure, anyway the temperature at the faucet is 45-48°C (113-118 °F) and of course there is an endless supply of it :D

At my parent's/summer house there is a combo boiler-central heating system and it a semi-instant boiler: it has a small 60 L tank (16 gallons) and has an output of 20 L of 50°C per minute with an increase in temperature of 35°C, so the supply is endless too. And it's also connected to the solar collectors with an auxiliary 150 L tank.
 
Tank is maintained at 160degF

Legally the water at the taps can be no hotter than 120degF so there is a tempering valve on the outlet of the hotwater tank that mixes hot and cold together to get to 120degF
 
So, while on the subject of water heaters........

I have a question that I have wondered for sometime. On a water heater than has 2 thermostats on it, I never know which one to set on what setting. I keep mine on 140.

My question is, how should the upper element be set, and then what about the bottom element? I am not even exactly sure WHY there are 2 separate settings for a one tank heater.

So, would anyone like to enlighten me on the correct way of setting it? Thanks in advance....

Joel
 
About 130F here as well.

The Neptune front loader runs off the water heater. It will only heat to 130F anyway.

The Miele 1918 is out in the workshop and has cold fill only. It does fine with that. Usually wash whites at 160F, and perm press at 120F there.
 
Joel

IIRC, the reason for dual heating elements and so forth in electrical powered water heaters, is that the power companies feared what a massive surge of demand would do to their systems.

In particular their worries centered on what happens when an entire area wakes up in the morning and hits the showers and so forth, sending demand for hot water (and by extension the electric power to create it), zooming.
 
Setting

Mine is set on 'B' which is one position shy of maximum Hot. Of course, what that relates to in degrees, I don't know. It is hot enough to scald you, if not careful. All my faucets and shower head have temperature stop guards built into them.

Malcolm
 
No kids here. Gas, Ge Profile hottest setting labeled caution scalding injury. When very cold in the winter i let the hot water run a small stream, while the DW is running. We had an electric water heater 40 gal in our old house, we often were waiting for hot water. alr2903
 
Ours is set to about 150F. By the time it enters the machines the dishes/clothes and porcelain tubs cool the water down at nearly 25 degrees.
 
I just ran the hot water for a minute then, let it run into a glass, then popped in an instant read thermometer. It read 143F which is too hot. The only time the water runs this long is during showers. Guess I will lower it a bit for the summer
 
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