Whirlpool Gold Catalyst Direct Drive

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It goes on the inner surface of the brake drum.  Can't apply directly to the brake drum surfaces without disassembly, which hopefully you didn't go to that much effort on it.   :-)[this post was last edited: 6/18/2024-00:42]
 
 
Ahh, so ... but just to say in case you need to reapply or have another DD with the problem, there's no need to pull the transmission (or the cabinet).  There's room to reach above the clutch bell and apply grease onto the brake drum surface at the gap between the brake shoes.  A consideration for the Catalyst or other model with the triple dispenser water feed hoses to disconnect for cabinet removal.
 
I know. I just removed the agitator, then laid the machine on its back. I then proceeded to drop the transmission. The removing of the cabinet/hoses was not necessary here. I do thank you though for your advice. I have actually applied some grease in the method you describe on my other machines without full disassembly. 
 
KitchenAid agitator

Is there a way to get medium agitation on a full water level as I plan to use the wide base KA agitator in here? 

 

Just to clarify, high speed agitation is a NO NO with the KA base as it puts too much strain on the gearcase, motor, and coupler, correct?
 
Intriguing

I congratulate Whirlpool on their Catalyst wash feature, but did it actually improve laundering performance?

What I do like about the machine in question here is that it releases fabric softener/rinse agents at the proper time.

For years I've been "babysitting" my 24 year old Maytag top loader to add fabric softener at the appropriate time when the extra rinse option is selected.
 
Normal agitation

How do I get medium agitation on a full tub of water?  In regards to the clutch, its got a new one, but its only 3 pad. I read somewhere that the Catalyst shipped with 6 pad clutch, is this true? I'm contemplating putting a new 6 pad clutch in there.
 
 
Original parts diagram for the model I have indicates P/N 3951308 for the clutch band which substitutes now to 285790 which is a 3-pad clutch (or 3951311 for the full assembly band + bell, which subs to 285785).  WP8299642 is a 6-pad band + bell, which is available but not the target substitution ... so take that as you wish.  Perhaps Combo52/John can clarify.

I made this cycle/options chart years ago.  It's in a post a few years ago, I figured you'd found it.

dadoes-2024062109561201465_1.jpg
 
Thanks Glenn. I had actually printed that chart a few weeks ago, but lost it and couldn't find it again online.  So the machine shipped with a 3-pad clutch, okay. I guess it wouldn't hurt if I still put in a heavy duty 6-pad one though, right?
 
True but there is some oil leaking from the coupler on the gearcase. I probably have to change out the seal so it will all be open anyway.

Part number 285352. Do you know which size the catalyst transmission uses?
 
Whirlpool catalyst direct drive washer

Hi Matt, sorry I didn’t get back to you quicker. I think those originally came with a three pad clutch, but it wouldn’t matter whether you put a Three pad or six pad clutch in they work identically the only advantage of a six pad clutches. It’s more durable if you do A lot of laundry on commercial models for example came with a six pad clutch.

All direct drive washers use the same transmission with the exception of the first couple years that used the direct spin transmission.

The only other machines that have come with six pad clutches in the later decades were the resource saver machines.

Glad you got your floor reinforced. We’ve done that many times it looks good. The only thing I would’ve done is use twice as many screws ,but it looks like it helps.

John
 
Thanks John. I appreciate your input. I’ll leave the clutch alone. I thought they performed better. My 94 and 96 Kenmore’s both had factory installed 6 pad clutches installed.

In regards to the floor, I don’t think it can get any more solid or stronger. The dryer still vibrates but I’m struggling getting that level because of the feet in the back. It’s by no means perfect but significantly better now. I guess a little vibration is to be expected.
 
Six pad verse three pad whirlpool direct drive clutches

There is absolutely no difference in performance. The three pad clutch was just a cost-cutting move to give the same performance. They put a stronger spring in.

Whirlpool started out with the six pad clutch, they actually had a single pad clutch in the earliest direct drive machines, but they realize that the clutch was way over built when they went to neutral drain and the clutch did not have to slip for two minutes while the machine was trying to drain the water, so they went to a more cost-effective three pad clutch which works just fine.

One of the tricks we do in the field when we have a transmission where the top oil seal is leaking pretty badly and getting oil in the clutch, which makes it slip too much. I take the strong spring from the three pad clutch and I throw a six pad band in there and that will still spin properly, even covered in oil , it keeps the machine running without the expensive transmission repair which people are often unwilling to do an older washer.

It would be hard to estimate how many thousands of machines we have kept out of the crusher by doing clever repairs and keeping them in use years longer. We end up repairing several machines every week that people were ready to throw in the towel with and keep them running for years longer in some cases, in additionally advice that we give out on using machines economically and to best advantage, saves an enormous amount of energy and water For our customers.
 


There is absolutely no difference in performance. The three pad clutch was just a cost-cutting move to give the same performance. They put a stronger spring in.

Oh ok. I did not know that. That makes sense now. Is this when they also color coded the springs to match the size of the tub? 24" 27"


Whirlpool started out with the six pad clutch, they actually had a single pad clutch in the earliest direct drive machines, but they realize that the clutch was way over built when they went to neutral drain and the clutch did not have to slip for two minutes while the machine was trying to drain the water, so they went to a more cost-effective three pad clutch which works just fine.

One of the tricks we do in the field when we have a transmission where the top oil seal is leaking pretty badly and getting oil in the clutch, which makes it slip too much. I take the strong spring from the three pad clutch and I throw a six pad band in there and that will still spin properly, even covered in oil , it keeps the machine running without the expensive transmission repair which people are often unwilling to do an older washer.


Interesting. It appears to be leaking from the seal around the shaft where the coupler goes. I already changed one out on my transmissions and it was an easy job. I just hope it didn't leak a lot of oil because I would rather not open this up and add more.

It would be hard to estimate how many thousands of machines we have kept out of the crusher by doing clever repairs and keeping them in use years longer. We end up repairing several machines every week that people were ready to throw in the towel with and keep them running for years longer in some cases, in additionally advice that we give out on using machines economically and to best advantage, saves an enormous amount of energy and water For our customers.


We need more people like you, that's for sure. 

 
Dryer

Anyone have any good recommendations for a matching dryer? Obviously the matching original dryer is not an option, as it's very rare.

 

I like the one in the first picture, but I need a gas one.  Second one pictured is probably newer, but the gray disappoints.  The one in the third photo looks like the first, but with 3 knobs.

blockeight88-2024062219243109617_1.jpg

blockeight88-2024062219243109617_2.jpg

blockeight88-2024062219243109617_3.jpg
 

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