Whirlpool motor wiring question

[maytag85]

Hello all, this is my first thread in the Imperial forum index on the ‘new’ AW site. Awhile back, I created a thread in regards to the older vs newer Whirlpool 29” dryer motors on the old AW site, almost done with the Mark 18 conversion to my Whirlpool dryer. While I did check to make sure everything is wired up correctly (essentially transferred the wiring harness from the Mark 18 to the ‘63 dryer cabinet), the thing that has me stumped is the wiring to the motor. While the color coding appears to be the same (2 red wires for the heater circuit, black for live, blue for common, white for neutral), it appears that 5M, 6M, 4M are different since 6M is neutral to the wiring diagram from 1963 and 4M is the neutral to the wiring diagram from 1977 that was forwarded by Ben. Just want to double check since I don’t want to ruin the original motor from 1963.

The first photo is a wiring diagram from my friend Richard’s dryer (same dryer), second is the one in the service manual that Ben forwarded to me awhile back. Third photo is how it’s wired up currently at the moment.

 

[combo52]

As long as the two red heater wires are on the correct terminals it doesn’t matter where the other wires are. It’s either gonna work or not if it doesn’t work use a different combination.

 

[combo52]

As long as the two red heater wires are on the correct terminals you can’t hurt anything. Try it out if it doesn’t work use a different combination of wires on the remaining two power terminals for the motor.

 

[maytag85]

That’s what I might do. It appears that I got the to wires for the heater circuit correct, along with wire 5M. More than likely wires 4M and 6M may need to be reversed if they aren’t correct.

Will have to convert it over to 120v since I don’t have 240v available in the garage.

 

[maytag85]

The machine is essentially all back together, though need to figure what terminals need to be moved over for 120v operation.

 

[Chetlaham]

Line two to neutral for 120 volt operation. In other words the terminal block wire that goes down the motor's centrifugal switch gets hooked to the incoming neutral.


Wire that goes up to the timer gets connected to your incoming hot.


At 120 volts you will get 1/4 the heating output.

 

[maytag85]

Line two to neutral for 120 volt operation. In other words the terminal block wire that goes down the motor's centrifugal switch gets hooked to the incoming neutral.


Wire that goes up to the timer gets connected to your incoming hot.


At 120 volts you will get 1/4 the heating output.

More so just to see if the motor will work, along with the auto dry features possibly.

 

[maytag85]

Got the wires moved over (had to move L1 over to the right, L2 to the left), now just have to plug it in to see if it’ll work.

 

[maytag85]

Plugged it in and…nothing. About the only thing that works is the drum light, relay was engaging, but nothing else.

Looks like I’ll have to do some digging to see why it’s not wanting to work.

 

[maytag85]

Did some investigating, turns out the motor wasn’t wired up correctly. John definitely was correct in terms of it will either work or won’t work.

Now, the dryer mostly functions in terms of heating up and tumbling, timer advancing.

Now here’s the bugs that will have to be worked out:
1. The dryer runs when the door is open
2. Air, warm, high works, but the dryer turns off when knit and medium and selected.

Definitely getting closer, but there will be bugs that will need to be worked out.

 

[Chetlaham]

Trace, refer to the wiring diagram, and know your terminals. A multi meter might help.

 

[maytag85]

That’s probably what I’m going to have to do. May just end up ‘deleting’ the electronic dry control and finish guard motor, that could be where all the problems lie.

Thinking about just using a fan switch to activate the timer motor once it reaches a certain temperature on the auto dry, then add a relay which overrides that so it’ll advance to off.

 

[maytag85]

As a start, going to bypass the pulser/finish guard motor.

Second, going to look into the door switch situation.

 

[maytag85]

Update: since I bypassed the pulser motor/finish guard, it no longer shuts off when either low/knit and medium/permanent press are selected.

Now, onto the door switch and getting the drum light/uv bulb to come on whenever it’s running.

 

[maytag85]

Another update: managed to get the drum light/uv light to come on whenever the machine is running, the idiosyncrasy is it only comes on whenever the timer is moved from the off position but is the only gripe about that.

Next, I’ll need to use a contactor to turn the lower wattage element on and off. Will work as is with the momentary toggle switch, but might as well go the extra mile while it’s out of service.

 

[Chetlaham]

Sounds like D2 isn't hooked up, or the door switch is not wired correctly.


Not to sound like the one whose raining on your joy but you need to make sure everything is wired correctly. I miss wired or missing safety like a hi limit, centrifugal or timer contact could lead to a fire.

 

[maytag85]

I did check everything earlier this evening, even double checked just to be sure. My guess is the door switch finally gave up the ghost after 43 (were in service from 1963 to 2005, June of 2021 to January of 2023) years of service, can’t really complain about that.