Whirlpool Portable Dryer Model LXE4900

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<span style="font-size: medium;">Now the front panel has been removed. </span>

 



 

<span style="font-size: medium;">Odd, I see why the belt is loose, what happened to the idler pulley?</span>

 



 

<span style="font-size: medium;">Wow, a bit linty in there. </span>Notice the pulley under the motor. How did it end up there?

 



 

<span style="font-size: medium;">That has to be the dirtiest motor I've seen to date. I can't believe it hasn't burned out. </span>

 



 

<span style="font-size: medium;">Some vacuuming later, doesn't look too bad. </span>

 

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<span style="font-size: medium;">I'll be removing the motor to air blast it clean and to oil. </span>

 

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<span style="font-size: medium;">The pulley has a groove for the belt. Never seen that before. </span>

 

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<span style="font-size: medium;">I figured out why the pulley was dislodged. The dryer must have been dropped on it's bottom left side (see first 2 pictures of this post).  I think I can straighten the bottom out.
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[this post was last edited: 9/7/2013-00:10]

 

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<span style="font-size: medium;">Most of the edges of the fan blades have worn away. Apparently they have been rubbing up against the housing for a long time. </span>

 



 

<span style="font-size: medium;">I don't think the fan needs to be replaced.</span>

 



 

<span style="font-size: medium;">Here you can see the rub mark on the housing.</span>

 

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[this post was last edited: 9/7/2013-00:12]

 

[combo52]

1972 WP Portable Drayer

Cool little dryer Louie I remember these well, The lint filter may be NLA if it isn't it may be expensive, I may have one if you cannot find one.

 

The grove in the white idler pulley was worn there by the belt, it means the bearing is not in good shape, you need a new IP.

 

The blower rubbing on the rear housing is caused by the motor mounting brackets being bent so the motor is back too far, the motor mounting bracket is easy to straighten when you have the machine apart.

 

This dryer may still have the 240 volt 5600 watt heater element in it, on WPs early 120 volt portables they just put the regular 240V-5600 Watt elements in instead of making a special 120V 1400 watt element just for the 120 volt portable dryers. If you run the 240V 5600 Watt element on 120Vs you get exactly 1400 watts of heat, but the element runs very cool [ it will never get red hot ] this is why they did not need the asbestos insulation under it and best of all the 5600 watt element should have a life expectancy of about 3000 years of normal use.

 

This dryer with the older style door hinges will allow you to add a window door which I have several of if you want to add this valuable feature, unfortunately I do not have have a brown door but they are easy to paint, John.

 

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<span style="font-size: medium;">Hey John! Would having the 240V heating element explain the heavy gauge power cord? Thanks for all the info! </span>

 

[combo52]

1972 WP Portable Drayer

Hi Louie, No older cords just had thicker insulation, and the 240 volt heater draws the same 1400 watts on 120 volts as your other two 120 volt dryers.

 

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<span style="font-size: medium;">Well, I have been searching for coppertone touch up paint, but so far zilch. Would anyone know where I can try next? Thanks!</span>

 

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<span style="font-size: medium;">I removed the heating element from it's housing. </span>

 



 

Just like John said.

 



 



 

<span style="font-size: medium;">Wow.</span>

 

 

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<span style="font-size: medium;">Straightening bent corner of base. (See reply 19, second image.)</span>

 



 

<span style="font-size: medium;">The bottom isn't too dirty, well compared to the others. I've removed the feet. Going to replace them with castors. </span>

 



 

<span style="font-size: medium;">Removed the side panel. Better access for motor removal. I've decided to completely dissemble the dryer for a thorough cleaning. </span>

 

 

[stainfighter]

Go for the Window!

Our beloved '62 Imperial WP had the window, exact hinges as John said. Go for it, give her the full treatment, the window would look lovely

Robert

 

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I'd love the window...

 

 

<span style="font-size: medium;">But I'd have to paint the door and the machine. That's just not in the cards now. </span>

 

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Timer troubles

 

 

<span style="font-size: medium;">I've made some progress in the rebuilding of the dryer but I've run into a snag. The timer does not line up to the cycles on the knob. For example, the machine will turn off at the 60 minute mark on the regular cycle. I reinstalled all the wires as they were. So I'm wondering, was the timer installed incorrectly by the previous owner? It advances fine. Just does not match up with what the dial says. Any ideas what may be wrong? </span>

 

<span style="font-size: medium;">Pictures and video to follow soon. </span>

 

[DADoES]

 
<blockquote>For example, the machine will turn off at the 60 minute mark on the regular cycle.</blockquote> Maybe it's mounted 90° off-kilter?

 

[combo52]

Portable Dryer Progress

You should Go for the window door, You can always paint the door a contrasting color. On your timer that is not lining up, be sure that it is not mounted 180 degrees out of aliment, look at your early pictures of this dryer and see if the red heater wire is still at the top with the timer installed.

 

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Thanks DADoES & John

 

 

<span style="font-size: medium;">I always take pictures of the wiring before I disconnect them, so I reconnected the wires as it was when I first opened it up. I will remount the timer at a different angle to see if it corrects the alinement. </span>

 

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<span style="font-size: medium;">Before:</span>

 



 

<span style="font-size: medium;">After:</span>

 

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<span style="font-size: medium;">Some light rust here and there, but cleaned up well enough. </span>

 



 



 

<span style="font-size: medium;">Motor is smooth and the quietest I've heard yet. Even quieter than the NOS motor I got for the Kenmore portable dryer.</span>

 



 

<span style="font-size: medium;">Rabbit cage is not welded to rear vent. Making it very easy to remove and clean. </span>

 



 

 

 

 

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<span style="font-size: medium;">Apparently the timer has been replaced with an incorrect model. The faceplate has been partially removed (and damaged) to install the replacement. I tried the other mounting holes, but of course, they were of no use. The timer would mount too low.
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<span style="font-size: medium;">Notice the mounting screw deep behind the faceplate. </span>

 

 

<span style="font-size: medium;">The offending timer. </span>

 

 

 

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<span style="font-size: medium;">First start up after partial reassembly:</span>
 

 

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<span style="font-size: medium;">Well I found a way around the timer issue. Going to drill new holes on the bracket that holds the timer to the dryer. It will then line up correctly. One thing though, if you notice in the video above, the timer is awfully noisy.  Is that a bad sign or it just needs some oil? </span>Pic's to follow.

 

[arbilab]

OUCH! Fascinating photos but please scale them appropriately from what the camera spits out. On a web page there is no use for more than 10K photos. These are 100K+.