1966 General Electric Spacemaker 19 Refrigerator MOD. TCF19DBC P.2

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It's not going to be easy. While there is a very similar compressor available on ebay, it's 1/4 HP. I need a 1/3 HP. I feel having the same compressor would make it far easier for some local tech to do the job. I won't lie, I'm real bummed out for now, but I am still fairly optimistic it will be repaired. Just don't know when. 
 
 

 

The current OHM numbers are:

 

Common to Run : 2.3

Common to Start: 1.547

Start to Run 1.549

 

Doing the ground test one lead to a clean piece of copper. other lead to all three compressor terminal registered as 0.L

 

I don't understand why the multimeter numbers are so vastly different now. Just after the spark the numbers were:

 

Common to Run: 4

Common to Start: 5.5

Start to Run: 10

 

 

Starter relay and the running capacitor checked out fine.

 

There is no sign of anything had arced or burned .

 

There is one thing I just realized. The Guardette was NOT attached to the compressor when I ran that test. So it could not sense the heat of the compressor as it started to overheat. The amp load reached about 7 just while I was unplugging the refrigerator when it flashed.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
Testing...

Yeah; this was not the findings we had hoped for.

 

To clarify what Louis said above about the numbers; the multimeter he is using is auto-ranging and there is a detail which is very important. I have added the red below:

 

Common to Run : 2.3 <span style="font-size: large;">Ω</span>

Common to Start: 1.547 M<span style="font-size: large;">Ω</span>

Start to Run 1.549 M<span style="font-size: large;">Ω</span>

 

<span style="font-size: large;">The "MΩ" is measuring in megohms; or millions of ohms. This is essentially an open circuit. The fact that any measurement from the Start terminal is reading in megohms means that the start winding is open circuit.</span>

 

<span style="font-size: large;">As far as why, I don't know for sure. The start-relay checks out good (contacts open and close when relay is flipped over) and the capacitor checks out good (not shorted and value is correct).</span>

 

<span style="font-size: large;">The only theory I have is that the winding was already damaged by previous failure of a start-relay and/or guardette. This could explain the mysterious failures of the Supco relays to start the compressor. </span>

 

<span style="font-size: large;">When using a run capacitor, it does cause the start winding to carry some current and to have a higher operating voltage than it would have when used for starting only. This is normally not a problem. However, with pre-existing damage to the winding insulation, the insulation could have failed, allowing an arc inside the compressor, which could result in an open start winding. </span>

 

<span style="font-size: large;">As far as the guardette not being in contact with the compressor, that wouldn't matter in this case. While it is true that these are sensitive to temperature; this is for longterm and gradual overheating such as blocked airflow or no refrigerant charge. The guardette is mainly an overcurrent device, so even though it was not touching the compressor body; the current was still passing through it and therefore it would have tripped if needed.</span>

 

 
 
Well crap Louie .....

My guess is the windings were already compromised due to the amount of current the watt meter was reading before adding the run cap. A vintage 60's 1/3hp compressor (using mine as a reference) should have a nominal run current of less than 3 amps. When mine has been running and the interior of the cabinet is at low temp, mine clocks at 1.7 amps. If a condenser fan is running add another 0.5 amps or so, assuming no defrost heaters are energized. Since you were reading 5.8 amps continuous, wanting to add a run cap was a good thought, but since hindsight is 20/20 .... I'm thinking there was an existing problem with the compressor to begin with. Adding a run cap to any single phase ac motor should not cause any problems, if the motor is good. If said run cap actually provides any benefit (reduction in power consumption) is a gamble, but in theory lowering the power factor by way of a run cap typically reduces current draw by a reasonable amount.

Since you had to replace the start relay and overload protector initially, which probably was a good indicator there was an underlying issue .... you probably would have encountered the compressor giving up the ghost sooner than later, even if you hadn't added the cap.

Don't give up .... too nice of a fridge to toss![this post was last edited: 9/14/2019-08:46]
 
Bad compressor On Your Birthday

Bummer

 

Thank You David and Bud for your excellent diagnosis and help with Louies GE refrigerator.

 

I knew the compressor was likely toast from the high amp readings he was getting with the 3-in-1 relay he had on it.

 

Because I work 5 days a week helping dozens of people every working day with appliance problems I was not able to put in the time trying to walk you through something you were unlikely to be able to fix. When you were buying this non-working refrigerator the plan was to leave it at Martins in NJ where either my Brother Jeff or I could test and repair it during our visits there.

 

The best way to fix it now would be to install a modern approximately 1000 BTU compressor Like Cory did in his mid 60s GE. I also have an original GE compressor or two laying around and even an extra complete sealed refrigeration system for this ref that was removed in tact. We have three of these refs running every day the one in the W Va house for over 20 years, if one of these fails I would install a modern compressor, as good as these GE compressors were nothing lasts forever.

 

Good luck with it and stop having birthdays on Friday the 13th, LOL

 

John L.
 
 

 

Quick update.

 

The G.E. is now in southern New Jersey.  Last week, John (Combo52) confirmed the compressor needs to be replaced. I am still hopeful someone will be able to repair it. If not, as much as it breaks my heart, it will have to be recycled. I do not have the space to store it, and I can not let it take up space in someone else's home indefinitely.
 
That's sad to hear. I hate the idea of that beautiful fridge being scrapped. If only you were nearer to David(turbokinetic). As we see from his posts replacing a compressor is not difficult when one has the know-how. But its the idea of finding someone today who wants to be bothered to do it. Most everyone today has the throw away and buy new mind set.
 
 

 

Much appreciated David. However the GE is going down to Beltsville MD to be repaired. I would still like to swing by you in the Spring to meet you in person and see your fantastic collection though. Thanks again for the offer!
 
An update...

 

 

Jeff Lefever (Jeff_adelfi) has whipped out his big magic wand...

 

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Thanks Jason!

 

 
 
 

 

 



 

 

What a beautiful sound.



 

<span class="video-url-fadeable style-scope ytcp-video-metadata-info">Thank you Jeff for making the day brighter. </span>

<span class="video-url-fadeable style-scope ytcp-video-metadata-info">And thanks Jason for forwarding the pics and vid. </span>
 
 

 

John gave me an update: It's cooling wonderfully, the compressor runs far less. The evaporator fan motor seems to be getting noisy, so it might be replaced. Sadly, I will have to wait to go get it. Damn.

[this post was last edited: 4/20/2020-07:24]
 

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