Aha. I see. So the original water intake valve also had a water restrictor. So I guess it was also set at 4.4 GPM. Thanks for info.
Just an update: It seems the Speed Queen #202395P has been superseded by #205547P. And it costs less.
2015 Speed Queen Washer Model AWNE82SP113TW01
- Thread starter Ultramatic
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Aha. I see. So the original water intake valve also had a water restrictor. So I guess it was also set at 4.4 GPM. Thanks for info.
Just an update: It seems the Speed Queen #202395P has been superseded by #205547P. And it costs less.
Food for thought Chetlaham...
But apparently the Whirlpool #358277 is also energy conserving.
But apparently the Whirlpool #358277 is also energy conserving.
My understanding/expectation is that flow restrictors are typically on the hot inflow port to reduce the volume of hot water, not on the outflow port of the valve body. What is the reasoning on reducing the flow rate of all the water that passes through it? Doing so would seemingly reduce only the (timed) spray rinse volume, not the wash or deep rinse which is controlled by the water level pressure switch.
So if the water restrictor is the hot, in flowing port, It's un removable.
Is the 4.4 GPM a government mandate?
358277 Mixing Valve
I saw that. I don't know if it is true or still holds true as I've heard conflicting things about the 358277 mixing valve. Some say it is still a genuine 50/50, others say it has been modified. Ultimately I have to order the new version from Whirlpool and find out.
On OEM valves restriction of the hot port is done by having the hot side hole smaller than the cold side flow. This results in a cooler warm saving energy. You can drill out the hot side hold to achieve 50/50 but I don't recommend it personally. A bur or plastic string can get into the diaphragm and cause it to stick open.
The resrictor in the outgoing port can not be removed practically or realistically. You'd literally have to find a way to undo plastic fused together at the factory then find a way to get it back together. In the old days you could remove 8 hex screws and pull out the restrictor doughnut but sadly new valves don't come with that option.
The 4.4 GPM is not government mandated in of itself. Rather it is there to help achieve energy regs in the Normal eco cycle. Speed Queen uses a series of 3 24 second spray rinses on the normal eco cycle. Those spray rinses can only use so much water before exceeding the water use permitted for the normal cycle to meet water and energy regulations.
I saw that. I don't know if it is true or still holds true as I've heard conflicting things about the 358277 mixing valve. Some say it is still a genuine 50/50, others say it has been modified. Ultimately I have to order the new version from Whirlpool and find out.
On OEM valves restriction of the hot port is done by having the hot side hole smaller than the cold side flow. This results in a cooler warm saving energy. You can drill out the hot side hold to achieve 50/50 but I don't recommend it personally. A bur or plastic string can get into the diaphragm and cause it to stick open.
The resrictor in the outgoing port can not be removed practically or realistically. You'd literally have to find a way to undo plastic fused together at the factory then find a way to get it back together. In the old days you could remove 8 hex screws and pull out the restrictor doughnut but sadly new valves don't come with that option.
The 4.4 GPM is not government mandated in of itself. Rather it is there to help achieve energy regs in the Normal eco cycle. Speed Queen uses a series of 3 24 second spray rinses on the normal eco cycle. Those spray rinses can only use so much water before exceeding the water use permitted for the normal cycle to meet water and energy regulations.
Louis, here is some new replacement old stock on ebay. It might not be 1985 original, but it is old enough to get you out of the flow restrictions and may (hopefully) get you out of those energy saving warm fills.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2568113114...rk=1&rkt=10&sd=256900950585&itm=256811311442&
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2568113114...rk=1&rkt=10&sd=256900950585&itm=256811311442&
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Whirlpool 358 277 inlet valve
Has no outlet flow restrictor, it’s designed for a 50-50 fill so it gives half hot and cold water.
This valve can pass water at the rate of almost 10 gallons a minute, it’d be an interesting experiment to put in the Speed Queen, but if it does any spray rinsing, it would probably overwhelm the machines ability to pump the water out. It might also splash over the tub cover and everywhere else.
This inlet valve was designed for whirlpool belt drive machines that had a pulse spray rinse. this type of flow rate in a Maytag will also overwhelm it. It can’t pump out that fast and spin at the same time. Which is why Maytag always had a flow restricted in the outlet has did most washing machines.
The valve that the 358 277 replaces had a 6040 hot cold ratio 60% hot 40% cold. Those were the blue valves. Also they were red valves at times and KitchenAid used a green valve that gave this ratio in the direct drive machines.
John L
Has no outlet flow restrictor, it’s designed for a 50-50 fill so it gives half hot and cold water.
This valve can pass water at the rate of almost 10 gallons a minute, it’d be an interesting experiment to put in the Speed Queen, but if it does any spray rinsing, it would probably overwhelm the machines ability to pump the water out. It might also splash over the tub cover and everywhere else.
This inlet valve was designed for whirlpool belt drive machines that had a pulse spray rinse. this type of flow rate in a Maytag will also overwhelm it. It can’t pump out that fast and spin at the same time. Which is why Maytag always had a flow restricted in the outlet has did most washing machines.
The valve that the 358 277 replaces had a 6040 hot cold ratio 60% hot 40% cold. Those were the blue valves. Also they were red valves at times and KitchenAid used a green valve that gave this ratio in the direct drive machines.
John L
Even the filter flos had a restrictor on them. I'm guessing they too could not handle the spray rinse water? A bit surprised in the filter flos had very power pumps.
I miss those red valves on the early 90s Kenmores.
I miss those red valves on the early 90s Kenmores.
GE filter-flo
I loved those powerful pumps. That explains why GE filter-flo washers never suds lock.
I loved those powerful pumps. That explains why GE filter-flo washers never suds lock.
I think it might have had to do with the space between the inner and outter tubs.
GE model T
I wish GE model T's never suds locked, even when you used the recommended amount of laundry detergent. That problem was overcome by using fabric softener, which we used anyway.
I wish GE model T's never suds locked, even when you used the recommended amount of laundry detergent. That problem was overcome by using fabric softener, which we used anyway.
Damn! It threw the error code again. The cold water fill is back to a trickle. I guess all that's left is a bad pressure switch, the hose going to the pressure switch is clogged, or God forbid, the control board. Now I'm going to have to open the console up. Fuck.
Back to a trickle? If the water valve is receiving power and opening, then the problem is with the plumbing. Something keep clogging on the cold side. Did you purge the lines before connecting them to the new fill valve? I did that with my Queen when I changed the fill valve a few months ago. I put both hoses pointing into the empty tub, then opened the water stop at the wall all the way and let the tub fill 2/3 full. Some brownish water came out of the hot hose, it purged all the extra sediment out of the lines.
Repeat if necessary.
Repeat if necessary.
It's not the hoses or the lines. I disconnected the hoses from the washer and put them in a bucket. Then I opened the taps and the water flow was fine.
Any debris in the bucket? Inlet valve screens clogged again?
No. No debris in the bucket. Screens are clean.
Reply 170 cold water trickling in
Don’t take apart the control panel don’t ruin this machine, get a Speed Queen inlet valve this time, it doesn’t pay to fool around with imitation inlet valves unless there’s no other choice.
John L
Don’t take apart the control panel don’t ruin this machine, get a Speed Queen inlet valve this time, it doesn’t pay to fool around with imitation inlet valves unless there’s no other choice.
John L
It would be an unlikely that the original valve, and its new replacement, failed in the same manner. But I suppose it could be possible. Both have an issue with the cold water fill. Hot water fill is fine.
worse case scenario
I'd get the tc5.
I'd get the tc5.
358277 Energy Conserving
Ok, so, I just received a new old stock 358277 valve. It is indeed 50/50.
The sticker inside mentions that this yellow valve replaces a 60% hot and 40% cold valve with a 50% hot 50 % cold.
Ok, so, I just received a new old stock 358277 valve. It is indeed 50/50.
The sticker inside mentions that this yellow valve replaces a 60% hot and 40% cold valve with a 50% hot 50 % cold.
