Dubbed down or dumbed down hot water wash

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retro-man

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I see constantly people complaining about this feature on new top load washers. How does this work. Is there a seperate mixing valve, a temp sensor in the flow, in the outside tub? I have not seen anyones explanation on how this works, nor have I seen any info on how to disable this, and get truly tap hot water into the wash. There must be a way to disconnect something or bypass. The reason I am bringing this up is I have one machine a Frigidare unit washer on bottom and dryer is connected on top that "had" this feature but stopped working about 5 months ago. I only get hot water on the hot settings now. So something stopped working along the way. If this washer can "fix" itself we should as a group here find what causes the mixing and "fix" it to our ways of doing laundry. I also have a maytag centennial top loader that I would like to "fix" since its not doing itself. Would be interested to hear from all the great talent on here about this.
Jon
 
You Could:

What I've mentioned before is that you could perhaps install a tempering valve to the cold supply, to bring it up to 100º or more (for example). That way, when the washer goes to add cold water (or tries to, hehe), it will only mildly affect the hot temperature. At least thats my theory. I'm not sure whether the smarter crop of washers would throw error codes and what-not. 

 

I think the F&P QuickSmart washer (BOL model) does not use ATC, as the website indicates it. The user guide "warns" the operator that the machine will use water as hot as the water in the tap. So buy this machine for no ATC... Lol
 
it varies by machine, some are as complicated by computer control, which you CAN NOT override....

others simple use of an in-hose sensor, that can be removed....others cannot

and some just use a restrictor in the valve....some "pop' out, others you may have to drill, and some you can't change at all.....

I have a Frigidaire Fler, when I first got it, the temp regulation worked, then I would only get HOT when HOT was selected, WARM and COLD gave all COLD water....they switched out the water valves, the tempering unit is no longer there, and the sensor plug is pushed into a blank space...since then it has been true water temps as available from my taps
 
it's funny...we're going in the other direction.....when ATC first came out, it was to regulate WARM and COLD washes so that detergents were more effective than water that was too WARM/COLD.....

now were going into ENERGY efficent...and dubbing down the WARM temps into the coldest wash possible....the problem is its forced on us, rather than let us choose according to our load type, cooler temps can be used for certain lightly soiled loads, and there are times you need a true HOT wash...

and we have all seen the effects of water that was too COLD.....or just at Freezing...for both cleaning and the damage to machines...

COLD can be used, but not for every load, best left for rinsing!

NO ONE is washing Construction or a Mechanics clothes in COLD water and getting them clean.....I have tried.....not happenning!
 
I am horrified by the dumbed-down, ridiculously low water temps on some new washers and dishwashers.

A review on a middle-of-the-line Frigidaire front-loader listed the "hottest water setting" on the Normal cycle to be 80 degrees. That's for the hottest setting! 80 degrees is cool---not even warm---in my book. I would never, ever recommend purchasing a washer that has no internal water heater. The well-documented 85-115 degree maximum water temp on my Immersion Care top-loader is a deal-breaker for me. I filled the machine manually with hot water (to the low water level for a smallish load of whites) and it actually cleaned very well on the default 58-minute Normal cycle. However, it sensed something was not right and didn't do the brief spins during the wash period---something that is crucial for both forcing sudsy water through the fabric, and to reposition the load for even cleaning when the lowest water level is used.

The new dishwashers from both LG and KitchenAid have default main wash temps of around 105 degrees. Using the "temp boost" option raises it to 120 degrees. These dishwashers heat the final rinse water to between 140-160, depending on the cycle. While KitchenAids' cleaning scores don't seem to have taken a hit, the new LG dishwashers are scoring significantly lower at Consumer Reports.

It's madness is what it is. I want appliances to be energy and water-efficient, but this is beyond ridiculous.[this post was last edited: 4/2/2013-16:03]
 
On my bro's 2010 WP DD, I can easily get around the ATC for hot. I put an additional hose connector on the cold line with a valve. I just close it when it fills for the wash, the only downside is that I have to stay there while it fills so I can reopen it afterwards.

And if I leave it open, HOT basically give is the same temp for WARM on the 1990 WP DD, so, overall, it's not the best, but it is workable.
 
When I keep reading threads like this I wonder where will something as simplistic as doing a load of laundry will end (?) between laundry machines so bad with low water usage and water temperatures coupled with detergent "improvements" will we be back to where it all started, yes I dare say it, the scrubbing board??
 
It is sad indeed, I only wash darks in the new Admiral. Warm is the "new" hot. Now my old LAT TAG creates a sauna when our lower level laundry room is cool.
 
Cold Wash, Hot Wash

Its been discussed before, but using cold water increases the likelihood of buildup (Mineral, detergent, softener) in the machine. You also get lower cleaning power and a less hygienic wash. Enzymes work best around 30-50ºC (86º-130º), and if you don't sort your laundry and wash in cold water, you are "distributing" E-Coli and other nasties from your underwear and socks. I don't know about you, but I'm not interested in wearing clothes that have all been washed in skid-mark water, let alone it being cold. Thats why I do my own laundry in this house. 
 
Just my 2 1/2 cents here.........

 

 

Granted this may not (probably won't) work on the all computer controlled, upper end(?) models, but it may be worth a shot.

 

While I could be completey wrong here, this is how I think it works.   The size of the opening inside the inlet valve is smaller on the hot side then the cold.   This reduces the hot flow down to 50 or 60% of what it should be.   The cold side is "wide open" allowing cold water to flow at a higher rate then the hot.   I'm sure you get it.

 

So on to my thought.   On machines which only have the restricted inlet valve, reverse the hose connections AND the electrical connections at the inlet valve solenoids.   This way you will obviously change the flow rates for hot and cold, getting a warmer / hotter wash.

 

On top loading WP built machines, I've noticed they alternate between warm and hot or cold and hot to get the desired temp (the damned ATC at work, obviously).

 

Kevin 
 
well what will you do if future washers do not have water he

What will you do if future washers do not have water heaters hot water temp or warm water temp options and are cold water wash only has it may happen? me i wash in cold water and i have no such buildup or problems and my clothes comes out nice and clean.
 
Where my bro used to live, the house has one of the Maytag Peformas. The ATC Warm for the wash was actually good. It started by having just the hot water open only and then opened the cold water once it got hot enough and both valves then STAY open for the remainder of the fill.
 
Dry Cleaners

I'll go there instead. Or connect my washer to a hot only or tempered supply. Or, ill get a vintage washer
 
RevinKevin, on some models not so much. I agree about the restrictor on the "hot" side. The ATC still adjusts the temp I have cold, cool, warm and hot. Still cold ground water here so read ice water, cool water, luke warm and barely warm. I also discoverd that washing on normal and "low" water level the splashing is so excessive it leaked a little on the floor. alr
 
Build up

As for this, F&P recommend washing in warm or hot every fourth wash to stop scrud or other buildup. This suggests long term cd water is bad. Another user posted a pic of what 20 years of it does to washers. They were Australian, and we get the cold water bashing from the authorities all the time here.....

 

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