supremewhirlpol
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Rinse really good with water, and let dry. I use a hair dryer to get the crevices.
Everyone meet Horsey->LG
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supremewhirlpol
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Follow the directions when using this stuff. Like I say above, it is some nasty stuff to get on the skin. Use gloves, protect yourself from it. Oh, and it does stink. The fumes WIll make you dizzy, so use in well ventilated area.
supremewhirlpol
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Mix 4:1 ratio(base:activator). Will have to apply at least 2 coats.
vacfanatic
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Coal Tar Epoxy
Nice!!! I was thinking of truck bedliner, so your idea wasn't too far off! This should really protect this spider from the elements inside the washing drum it's exposed to.
Great idea!!!
Andrew
Nice!!! I was thinking of truck bedliner, so your idea wasn't too far off! This should really protect this spider from the elements inside the washing drum it's exposed to.
Great idea!!!
Andrew
supremewhirlpol
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Yes, bedliner could be another option, maybe even less expensive than Coal Tar Epoxy. Do you know whether or not it is conductive? Also where would you get it?
cornutt
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You could try a can of conformal coat. It sprays on and it's not as nasty as the alodyne. It goes on thick and it's designed to exclude moisture. It's used a lot for protecting marine electronics. The only thing is, it may effect the balance a bit.
I hope the epoxy does not give off an odor when exposed to hot water and thus make the clothes stinky. I also hope that after all of your work the rest of the machine holds up and that the bearing/spider failure was not just the first float in the disaster parade.
supremewhirlpol
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There are actually some other things that I am concerned about. They are design flaws, one of the issues is so far along, that the damage is done and it is just a matter of time when the part will fail. The LG folks is freakin geniuses! I'll get to those OTHER issues after I put the machine back together.
After the second coat of Epoxy is applied, must allow for at least 7 days for it to fully cure->will apply first coat to cylinder later today.
After the second coat of Epoxy is applied, must allow for at least 7 days for it to fully cure->will apply first coat to cylinder later today.
supremewhirlpol
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Applied the second coat to the spider today->harder to apply as it is difficult to determine what has the second coat applied to it with out touching the spider. The spider is some-what heavier. The epoxy will be applied to the cylinder as well. The region where the spider mounts to the cylinder has to be sanded and cleaned. Several spots required a lot more sanding than others->apply degreaser, then rinse really good, then dry. This is the cylinder prepared for the epoxy.
supremewhirlpol
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first coat applied
I dont think I would have gone that route with the coal tar epoxy but still interesting just the same. I am wondering with the added weight and thickness that the rear drum clearances are going to be a hell of alot tighter. I hope I am wrong but it would suck that you went thru all this trouble only to have the drum not turn freely when you reassemble it.
I also agree with Tom about possible smells with a hot wash. I can only imagine what this stuff smells like. Does it dry scent free?
I also agree with Tom about possible smells with a hot wash. I can only imagine what this stuff smells like. Does it dry scent free?
supremewhirlpol
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nmassman44:
What would you have done? What are your thoughts? Is that cat posing for the camera?
fordtech:
That epoxy reminds me of wild E coyote cartoons and that black stuff in cans labeled ACME.
What would you have done? What are your thoughts? Is that cat posing for the camera?
fordtech:
That epoxy reminds me of wild E coyote cartoons and that black stuff in cans labeled ACME.
3beltwesty
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Supremewhirpol ;
****Re Tomturbomatics's comment off :
"I hope the epoxy does not give off an odor when exposed to hot water and thus make the clothes stinky."
Here there was some odor when I epoxy coated part of the spin basket 4 years ago:
Here I coated the old steel/porcelain spin basket on my 1976 Westinghouse LT570 3 belt frontloader back in 2006 when I rebuilt the machine. The basket was pulled out because the front 6205 bearing's cage broke . The machine still worked but made a mess of noise. For a rebuild I used two new stainless 6205 bearings and a new Frigidaire seal.
The 29 year old basket/drum had some rust spots on my LT570; it was cleaned off with great care and cleaned with MEK; alcohol, etc. Since paint prep is key; I spent several days making sure all the old crud and soap was gone.
The basket was coated with high temp 2 part industrial grade epoxy paint used in the chemical industry for tanks that cost about 60 bucks per gallon. It was cured with heat lamps and later in the sun.
The basket was about 2 months dried when the machine was first used. One could get a hint of PAINT SMELL with hot loads of wash for awhile; then I did not notice it anymore. The first few washes were the worst of course. Any smell was gone after being in the dryer.
If this washer is for a customer; my advice is to wash enough hot loads until there is no smell. Otherwise a picky person that is sensitive might complain.
After 4 years of regular usage here one gets pieces of the paint; ie paint chips about 1/2 the size of a dime or penny in ones wash at times. Thus the toil of the many washer loads has caused some of the paint to come off. This is with a machine that spins at about 540 rpm tops.
The old 3 belt Westy is very tolerant of crud in its big pump; it will pass a ball about 8 to 10mm in size.
After 4 years of usage the pump was making more noise; like it had some stuff in it. When going into the pumps prefilter the sump guard; it had about 1/4 cup worth of epoxy paint chips. To get at the sump filter grate one goes through the basket's removed vane.
After discovering my machine was passing paint chips I worry about this undesolveable stuff clogging up the homes sewer pipes. Thus I have the drain hose passing through a screen window sized home made FILTER; to collect the few chips.
Stuff like paint; tar; RTV etc will not dissolve with drain cleaner. I mention all this because if that tar or epoxy comes off in pieces down the road; it can if enough add to clogs.
In researching what coating to use; about every paint or coating guru acted like it would not work at all; when my own fix seems to have worked better than expected.
The epoxy paint guru 4 years ago mentioned the possible failure mode of making some situations worse by coating them. ie stuff gets trapped between the coating and the based metal; and thus one can get accelerated corrosion.
**** So do you think that your plan will make the spider not touch the SS drum ie no metal to metal? ie is there a plan for a non metalic washer under the 6 bolts?
With the repair here the pieces of paint chips started to appear in the closes washing about 3.5 years after rebuild. At first I just found a few pieces in the dryers lint filter.
Once I found there was 1/4 cup worth of stuff in the sump guard of the washer; I had this sick feeling that maybe a lot more is down in the sewer that might cause a clog.
It is interesting to see somebody else coat FL drums too. With the job that was done here 4 years ago; I would have bought a new basket for the 1976 machine but could not find one.
****Re Tomturbomatics's comment off :
"I hope the epoxy does not give off an odor when exposed to hot water and thus make the clothes stinky."
Here there was some odor when I epoxy coated part of the spin basket 4 years ago:
Here I coated the old steel/porcelain spin basket on my 1976 Westinghouse LT570 3 belt frontloader back in 2006 when I rebuilt the machine. The basket was pulled out because the front 6205 bearing's cage broke . The machine still worked but made a mess of noise. For a rebuild I used two new stainless 6205 bearings and a new Frigidaire seal.
The 29 year old basket/drum had some rust spots on my LT570; it was cleaned off with great care and cleaned with MEK; alcohol, etc. Since paint prep is key; I spent several days making sure all the old crud and soap was gone.
The basket was coated with high temp 2 part industrial grade epoxy paint used in the chemical industry for tanks that cost about 60 bucks per gallon. It was cured with heat lamps and later in the sun.
The basket was about 2 months dried when the machine was first used. One could get a hint of PAINT SMELL with hot loads of wash for awhile; then I did not notice it anymore. The first few washes were the worst of course. Any smell was gone after being in the dryer.
If this washer is for a customer; my advice is to wash enough hot loads until there is no smell. Otherwise a picky person that is sensitive might complain.
After 4 years of regular usage here one gets pieces of the paint; ie paint chips about 1/2 the size of a dime or penny in ones wash at times. Thus the toil of the many washer loads has caused some of the paint to come off. This is with a machine that spins at about 540 rpm tops.
The old 3 belt Westy is very tolerant of crud in its big pump; it will pass a ball about 8 to 10mm in size.
After 4 years of usage the pump was making more noise; like it had some stuff in it. When going into the pumps prefilter the sump guard; it had about 1/4 cup worth of epoxy paint chips. To get at the sump filter grate one goes through the basket's removed vane.
After discovering my machine was passing paint chips I worry about this undesolveable stuff clogging up the homes sewer pipes. Thus I have the drain hose passing through a screen window sized home made FILTER; to collect the few chips.
Stuff like paint; tar; RTV etc will not dissolve with drain cleaner. I mention all this because if that tar or epoxy comes off in pieces down the road; it can if enough add to clogs.
In researching what coating to use; about every paint or coating guru acted like it would not work at all; when my own fix seems to have worked better than expected.
The epoxy paint guru 4 years ago mentioned the possible failure mode of making some situations worse by coating them. ie stuff gets trapped between the coating and the based metal; and thus one can get accelerated corrosion.
**** So do you think that your plan will make the spider not touch the SS drum ie no metal to metal? ie is there a plan for a non metalic washer under the 6 bolts?
With the repair here the pieces of paint chips started to appear in the closes washing about 3.5 years after rebuild. At first I just found a few pieces in the dryers lint filter.
Once I found there was 1/4 cup worth of stuff in the sump guard of the washer; I had this sick feeling that maybe a lot more is down in the sewer that might cause a clog.
It is interesting to see somebody else coat FL drums too. With the job that was done here 4 years ago; I would have bought a new basket for the 1976 machine but could not find one.
3beltwesty
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sacrificial anodes
Another idea would to be to use a sacrificial anode that is even less Noble than the Aluminum spider.
Thus one allows the sacrificial anode to dissolve away; and the spider is protected.
It would have to have enough raw mass to save the spider during the machines life.
Drawback is cost; will it leave crud on clothes; break in chunks and foul the seal; whatever.
Both Aluminum and Zinc are used on ships; water heaters etc.
The sacrificial anode would have to be less Nobal than Aluminum; maybe Zinc
Another idea would to be to use a sacrificial anode that is even less Noble than the Aluminum spider.
Thus one allows the sacrificial anode to dissolve away; and the spider is protected.
It would have to have enough raw mass to save the spider during the machines life.
Drawback is cost; will it leave crud on clothes; break in chunks and foul the seal; whatever.
Both Aluminum and Zinc are used on ships; water heaters etc.
The sacrificial anode would have to be less Nobal than Aluminum; maybe Zinc
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supremewhirlpol
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3beltwesty:
Oh...right...I forget you are ME...looks like you've been in it forever in a day, back when the dinosaurs once roamed and stepped in their own poop! (HAHAHA)
I'm studying EE, CE, and LAS. What else do you recommend? You've got my attention now.
Oh...right...I forget you are ME...looks like you've been in it forever in a day, back when the dinosaurs once roamed and stepped in their own poop! (HAHAHA)
I'm studying EE, CE, and LAS. What else do you recommend? You've got my attention now.
We have had success using regular Duron two part epoxy to coat areas where the porcelain failed. I guess I was spooked by the term "coal tar" epoxy knowing that coal tar is a carcinogen but not much else about it and was worried that it might have a powerful lingering odor.
Old style WH front loaders from the 60s spoiled me for most newer front loaders. The machines were very stable with the cast-iron tub weights. With the powerful pump with vanes that went to the walls of the pump chamber driven off the washer motor and its location right under the sump in the bottom of the outer tub, there was none of this suds and air-locking foolishness like in modern machines where you have a column of air between the pump and the tub. It was a shame that they did not spin between the two deep rinses, but the cycle modification seen in the Kenmore Dual Tumble washer took care of that. I also liked the spray tumble rinse after the wash to help dilute the detergent concentration in the load and knock down any suds that remained after the drain.
Old style WH front loaders from the 60s spoiled me for most newer front loaders. The machines were very stable with the cast-iron tub weights. With the powerful pump with vanes that went to the walls of the pump chamber driven off the washer motor and its location right under the sump in the bottom of the outer tub, there was none of this suds and air-locking foolishness like in modern machines where you have a column of air between the pump and the tub. It was a shame that they did not spin between the two deep rinses, but the cycle modification seen in the Kenmore Dual Tumble washer took care of that. I also liked the spray tumble rinse after the wash to help dilute the detergent concentration in the load and knock down any suds that remained after the drain.
3beltwesty
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any ideas on electrically isolating the alum from SS ?
Supremewhirpoland the group;
I wonder out loud if you could get away with some super thin non conductive washers to help electrically isolate the aluminum spider from the SS basket?
The washers ideally would be thin enough that mechanical tolerances would not be a problem; but thick enough to isolate the metal items.
Thus maybe some Mylar/polyester washers that are a few mils thick is a wild idea. Due to the washers heat and preload on the bolts; placing a non metal isolator has its risks. You do not want the basket to come loose; ie the bolts preload to back off too much due to mechanical creep. Thus the thinnest washer should be used if possible.
So is the SS drum tapped for the 6 bolts? The LG WM2277HW service manual really just shows the SS drum and spider not in any details.
The image in YUK!/reply 74 sort of looks like the SS drum has PEM nuts like; ie the nut part is part of the SS drum.
Supremewhirpoland the group;
I wonder out loud if you could get away with some super thin non conductive washers to help electrically isolate the aluminum spider from the SS basket?
The washers ideally would be thin enough that mechanical tolerances would not be a problem; but thick enough to isolate the metal items.
Thus maybe some Mylar/polyester washers that are a few mils thick is a wild idea. Due to the washers heat and preload on the bolts; placing a non metal isolator has its risks. You do not want the basket to come loose; ie the bolts preload to back off too much due to mechanical creep. Thus the thinnest washer should be used if possible.
So is the SS drum tapped for the 6 bolts? The LG WM2277HW service manual really just shows the SS drum and spider not in any details.
The image in YUK!/reply 74 sort of looks like the SS drum has PEM nuts like; ie the nut part is part of the SS drum.
3beltwesty
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LG's boot changed after Sept 2007; it has drain holes
With LG Front loaders; after about Sept 2007 the boot has drain holes.
for WM2277HW the old boot is #4986ER0004B;
the new boot is #4986ER0004F with drain holes.
If you google these two numbers one gets washers made by LG, Sears Kenmore He , Zenith.
Gee; we have Sears washer made by LG!
With LG Front loaders; after about Sept 2007 the boot has drain holes.
for WM2277HW the old boot is #4986ER0004B;
the new boot is #4986ER0004F with drain holes.
If you google these two numbers one gets washers made by LG, Sears Kenmore He , Zenith.
Gee; we have Sears washer made by LG!
3beltwesty
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old versus new boots
It looks like the New type boot has some extra stuff so it drains back into the tub. Thus the tube has a different front piece and hose to allows this water to drain back. Thus a new boot on a real old washer might require a pie pan on the laundry room floor; or this extra stuff. The C shaped lower counter weight on the newer design has a cutout this new drain hose. The newer tub cover is 3550ER0004A
It looks like the New type boot has some extra stuff so it drains back into the tub. Thus the tube has a different front piece and hose to allows this water to drain back. Thus a new boot on a real old washer might require a pie pan on the laundry room floor; or this extra stuff. The C shaped lower counter weight on the newer design has a cutout this new drain hose. The newer tub cover is 3550ER0004A
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