LG2455HG
Just picked up one of these machines for $30, a WM2455HG. Seller said it was making noise and I noted drum had slop. Also has/had mudd butt. Tore it down and knocked out bearings. Based on what ive read here and elsewhere, I feel obligated to make some comments.
This machine was manufactured 2007, not sure when it went into service. Guy I bought it from said they bought it used 5 years ago, that until this problem they loved it and just bought two new LG stackable FL'ers because this had worked so well.
The only luck ive had or seen with washing machines over my 55 years were Maytags or Whirlpools my parents bought new. I never saw any consumer grade washers that I thought were worth putting much time or effort into once something major fritzed. Why would you put $200 into a timer, or same amount or more into a transmission when you could go buy a new maching like it for $300, or just go find a used one for $50? Makes no sense. Usually, once the belt was worn out, so was the machine.
So why on earth would I purposely go out and buy an LG front loader with blown bearings? Several reasons. First, we have a well that runs dry if we draw too much water. If wifey does more than three loads, and someone takes a shower or does dishes, water will be out for a while. So a washer that uses less water was desireable. Second, LG has been one of the higher rated consumer grade front loaders. Third, this isnt a $200 repair to a $300 machine, this is a $60 repair to much more expensive machine. Repaired, I could easily sell this machine for $400-500. Yeah, I do have "time" into it. But most of that was wasted "learning" how to take it apart. I could have the tub out of one in a bit over an hour now that I know how it comes apart. If I were paying someone labor it wouldnt make sense. But it woudlnt make sense on a $300 top loader either. At $100 hour labor, plus parts, most washers arent worth fixing once they fritz.
I dont know what ill have when this thing goes back together, but I saw it run and all the lights lit up, so I assume it should be okay. But I have a few observations. First, I was impressed how clean it was after I opened it up. No transmission flinging oil and soap water around the cabinet like a front loader. That bolt on the back that mushes, appears to be bronze. I dont think its "cheap", I believe it was installed as a stretch bolt to keep constant but reasonable tension on the bearings. There is no sleeve between the inner and outer bearings inner races. If to much tension is applied, the bearings will fail.
On the corrosion issue, the spider/drum support on this machine is in fine shape. Its not corroded at all. I cant speak with any more authority than anyone else, other than to surmize that most of the corrosion issues are likely due to poor water conditions, wrong/too much soap, and or leaving the machine closed up after running. Or, LG made some change to the spider material without telling anyone.
Overall, I didnt think it was that bad to tear apart. But then, I have an aviation and exotic car mechanical background and understand complex mechanisms. This isnt really complex, just different. Not sure i like the computer control deal, would prefer a common mechanical timer, but otherwize I can live with it.
I do not like government telling us what to do, or forcing manufactures to make rediculous changes. But thats the world we live in. And while I dont think we are all running out of water, and dont believe the sky is falling, I also dont think we need to see how much water we can flush down the hole. OTOH, thanks to unions, labor has become so expensive manufacturers are forced to build throwaway machines, or make them more expensive to offset future repair costs. One warrantee service call on a new machine will totally wipe out any profit the manufacturer made on the sale. Think about that a minute.
So I am going to fool with this a while, and in the meantime, keep my eyes peeled for an older commercial laundromat SQ front loader.
One last observation. I noted that the OP installed the seal using grease. Seals should always be installed dry (unless specifically stated otherwise by the manufacturer) so they wont push out. My guess is the seal pushed out shortly after starting, and flooded the new bearings. That and he likely used a harder retaining bolt and put too much tension on the bearings. Probably a combination of the two.
Just picked up one of these machines for $30, a WM2455HG. Seller said it was making noise and I noted drum had slop. Also has/had mudd butt. Tore it down and knocked out bearings. Based on what ive read here and elsewhere, I feel obligated to make some comments.
This machine was manufactured 2007, not sure when it went into service. Guy I bought it from said they bought it used 5 years ago, that until this problem they loved it and just bought two new LG stackable FL'ers because this had worked so well.
The only luck ive had or seen with washing machines over my 55 years were Maytags or Whirlpools my parents bought new. I never saw any consumer grade washers that I thought were worth putting much time or effort into once something major fritzed. Why would you put $200 into a timer, or same amount or more into a transmission when you could go buy a new maching like it for $300, or just go find a used one for $50? Makes no sense. Usually, once the belt was worn out, so was the machine.
So why on earth would I purposely go out and buy an LG front loader with blown bearings? Several reasons. First, we have a well that runs dry if we draw too much water. If wifey does more than three loads, and someone takes a shower or does dishes, water will be out for a while. So a washer that uses less water was desireable. Second, LG has been one of the higher rated consumer grade front loaders. Third, this isnt a $200 repair to a $300 machine, this is a $60 repair to much more expensive machine. Repaired, I could easily sell this machine for $400-500. Yeah, I do have "time" into it. But most of that was wasted "learning" how to take it apart. I could have the tub out of one in a bit over an hour now that I know how it comes apart. If I were paying someone labor it wouldnt make sense. But it woudlnt make sense on a $300 top loader either. At $100 hour labor, plus parts, most washers arent worth fixing once they fritz.
I dont know what ill have when this thing goes back together, but I saw it run and all the lights lit up, so I assume it should be okay. But I have a few observations. First, I was impressed how clean it was after I opened it up. No transmission flinging oil and soap water around the cabinet like a front loader. That bolt on the back that mushes, appears to be bronze. I dont think its "cheap", I believe it was installed as a stretch bolt to keep constant but reasonable tension on the bearings. There is no sleeve between the inner and outer bearings inner races. If to much tension is applied, the bearings will fail.
On the corrosion issue, the spider/drum support on this machine is in fine shape. Its not corroded at all. I cant speak with any more authority than anyone else, other than to surmize that most of the corrosion issues are likely due to poor water conditions, wrong/too much soap, and or leaving the machine closed up after running. Or, LG made some change to the spider material without telling anyone.
Overall, I didnt think it was that bad to tear apart. But then, I have an aviation and exotic car mechanical background and understand complex mechanisms. This isnt really complex, just different. Not sure i like the computer control deal, would prefer a common mechanical timer, but otherwize I can live with it.
I do not like government telling us what to do, or forcing manufactures to make rediculous changes. But thats the world we live in. And while I dont think we are all running out of water, and dont believe the sky is falling, I also dont think we need to see how much water we can flush down the hole. OTOH, thanks to unions, labor has become so expensive manufacturers are forced to build throwaway machines, or make them more expensive to offset future repair costs. One warrantee service call on a new machine will totally wipe out any profit the manufacturer made on the sale. Think about that a minute.
So I am going to fool with this a while, and in the meantime, keep my eyes peeled for an older commercial laundromat SQ front loader.
One last observation. I noted that the OP installed the seal using grease. Seals should always be installed dry (unless specifically stated otherwise by the manufacturer) so they wont push out. My guess is the seal pushed out shortly after starting, and flooded the new bearings. That and he likely used a harder retaining bolt and put too much tension on the bearings. Probably a combination of the two.
