FilterFlo suds model

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akronman

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Here's my recently acquired Model #WWA8355VCL GE Filter Flo from 1978, suds model. It sat for 34 years with that one rusted side exposed to the open laundry tub drain, other than that darn little rust. I bent the clutch solenoid back in shape to get 2 speeds, and now the machine's somewhat dissasembled for de-rust, etc.  I propped up the tranny assembly to keep it centered and keep strain off the huge rubber tub seal while I'm working on things.  The corner base plates and the rear edge/leg assembly all need sanding and painting.

 

IT worked well for me when first installed, just needed the clutch armature repaired and the suds valve(down the thread further.)

While it's getting a paint job, is there any oiling or lubing these need? Where the transmision shaft meets the belt pulley? The snubbers are alll dry and shiney where they rub, I believe they are meant to be grease free. All their attached rubber parts are intact, this is a quiet and smooth spinning machine.

A few drops of oil on the suspension pulleys near the top? Anything else?

 

 

 

akronman++12-17-2012-19-08-32.jpg
 
clutch solenoid/armature

It was bent to hell, but I could hear the solenoid buzzing. After some pliers and bending, it's all back in shape and I tested it electrically, all is well. The motor is pretty shiny and dust free, are there any points to oil this?

akronman++12-17-2012-19-15-3.jpg
 
suds valve

Here is the suds valve. The bottom port is incoming from the tub, top 2 are the outgoing drain hoses. It's just a duo of pinch valves, not rocket science. Other suds machines in earlier eras or other manufacturers probably did more, this one only operates in the regular wash cycle.  For returning the suds, you flip a switch to return, then set the timer at the SUDS labelled start of the regular cycle.  It isn't wired thru the water level valve or anything to finish filling the tub, it's just a dry agitate that pulls the water thru the correct valve. Then you stop the machine, put the clothes in, reset the suds switch to save or off, then it will fill the rest of the tub as needed and do a regular wash cycle.

It's plenty good enough for me.

akronman++12-17-2012-19-22-59.jpg
 
missing parts

Picture is bad, but each side of the valve had 2 springs operating against the solenoid, 4 springs total. 1 on each side was missing, but available at Easy Appliances, about $20 total with shipping. Now the snap action is fast and tight, and the springs seal up the pinch valve fully.

akronman++12-17-2012-19-25-23.jpg
 
valve

the above pic of the springs, and the overall inside peek into the metal box of this valve shows signs of ancient lithium grease to help everything move freely along those slots., I'll lube it a bit before re-installing.

 

Other than the one side of rust, there's just a few nicks.  Anyone with oil/lube advice while she's still on the side will be appreciated.

 

My other 78 FilterFlo, non suds model, has the ramped agitator. This one is 4 straght vanes, and I'll start an argument here but I can't see the difference. Both are great at turnover and agitation, I'll leave them both as is.

akronman++12-17-2012-19-27-38.jpg
 
A little painting isn't bad for a machine that is almost 35 yr. old.  

 

And it looks like your doing all the right things by supporting the suspension. 

 

Can't wait to see it finished.  See if its the model I'm thinking of.  That is 3 toggle switches on the left.  2 knobs, mid-back console.

 

GE is fun to play with.  Uses a lot of water though.
 
more

for the record, here's a link to an earlier thread when I got this around Thanksgiving, pics show the diagram/parts list for the suds valve, and the one SUDS marking on the timer.

 

Pic here shows the SUDS knob, just SAVE--OFF--RETURN


akronman++12-17-2012-19-40-36.jpg
 
I like those later 70s models.  And the straight-vane white agitator. 

 

Your lucky.  Its going to be beautiful. 

 

Are the drain hoses rubber or white ribbed plastic with an aluminum goose neck on the end?

 

I wouldn't worry about the GFI.  They are designed to be sensitive.  Good for you for using one!  I came close to getting a shock on appliances without a GFI.  This was years ago, once on a GE washer and another time on a portable Kenmore DW.  Both had been washed, but weren't completely dry, and apparently there was water in the timer.  I plugged the washer in to test , touched the chrome plated plastic knob to turn the dial and could feel a light tingle.   The DW I plugged in, and grabbed the laminate top to move it.  My finger brushed against the side panel and I could feel the tingling.  Thank-god they were grounded.   I quickly backed up, pulled the plug, calmed down, let my heart slow down as it felt like it was going to pop out of my chest- lesson learned.  1983 and I was like 14.

 

I was told by an electrician NOT to install a Garage door opener on a GFI plug because the sudden draw could trip the circuit and you'd be stuck outside.  So it happens.   They don't generally recommend installing a major appliance like this on a GFI circuit.  That is, something that you would need to count on if you aren't there to monitor it.  Things such as sump pumps, dishwashers, well pumps, furnaces, etc.
 
First "modern" GE I've seen with a suds. Like Kaiser Sozay (sp) heard of him/them but never seen. How cool. Seeing those giant drain & suds udders on the pump in your first pic just warm the heart on this cold windy day. It would be great to see the suds system in action, and a first, here, as far as I know for GE's.

Mark, I did a comparative, comprehensive test one afternoon using beach towels at various water levels, and though the action is clearly different, both the vane and the ramp were equally effective and thorough in their turnovers, even though I went in favoring the ramp. Eye-opening and humbling day it was. I agree with your view totally.
 
Drain Hoses

I'm curious to see the drain hoses of this machine. Since its from '78, does it use the ribbed white plastic or the black with the anti-kink coil around it?

One reason I ask is because of all the GE's I've seen, including the ones with a black rubber drain hose or a white ribbed plastic one, most used an aluminum or plastic gooseneck. On only one machine - that 1975 Dispensall of my neighbors that I loved so much - came equipped with a black rubber drain hose with the wire coil and a molded hook at the end. It was the only GE I ever saw with one. Now, looking at the parts reference page you had listed in your original posted article back in Nov, it illustrates the same molded rubber hose.

Did this machine come with the molded rubber hoses too? Anyone know why GE switched? Anyone have a machine with the molded rubber hoses? For some reason this has always fascinated and puzzled me and I've yet to see a GE drain hose with a molded rubber hook like the one on my friends Dispensall from 75.

Curiosity killed the cat...
Matthew
 
Drain hoses

Washer manufacturers started switching to corrugated plastic drain hoses in the 1970s because they were not only a little cheaper to make but mainly to reduce the cost of warranty calls related to kinked drain hoses which cost all major manufactures hundreds of thousands dollars in unnecessary warranty payouts every year. They did the same thing with built-in DW drain hoses for the same reason.

 

Overall I think that the smooth rubber drain hoses work a little better as the water flows through them more smoothly. It was interesting that special model machines continued to come with the rubber drain hoses such as Suds-Saver machines, commercial models and even when WP introduced the Resource-Saver washer it still came with the regular rubber drain hose [ I think that they knew that they worked better ].
 
hoses

This 78 suds model has black hoses with wire embedded/wrapped around. When it's back together--SOON--I will post more pics. My other GE FF, exact same model except 77 and non-suds, has the corrugated white plastic.

 

Dumb question here-----there's lots of stains on the cardboard/pressboard back of this machine. What's the cheap and easy way to paint it to cover up? I can't really clean it, just kinda cover over with paint, I think. What paint? Spray? Rollers?
 
Mark

Alex did a very cool paint color and effect on his back panel....this might give you some ideas....

 
Suds info

The machine is back together(98%) and runs wonderfully. I was right on the suds operation. To suck them back, you set the suds knob to return, it simply overrides the water level switch for the wash fill in the regular cycl;e, and you get whatever amount back that was in your laundry tub. IT doesn't stop to fill the rest, it doesn't stop to allow only medium level if desired, it just sucks all back in and runs right into an 18 minute wash. Pretty simple but damn good enough. Keep in mind there's no clothes in yet, you normally stand there and re-suck, stop the machine and add clothes, etc. So you can decide if it needs more water, etc. Simple operation, works well.
 
more

Someone was interested in the hoses----the main one with metal wire ribbing is the suds hose, comes out 2/3 up the machine.  Further down is the rinse drain/most draining hose. It was already customized by a previous owner, 3 feet added in. You can see the final portion in the lower left across the laundry tub, also metal ribbing. No leaks, so I will leave them alone.

 

There's various other machine's hoses and ground wires in the pic, an unholy mess fro sure.

akronman++12-20-2012-12-35-5.jpg
 

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