FilterFlo suds model

[mickeyd]

Think you said earlier that the agitator works during the return as ususal. This would be a great time to switch back and forth between the ramp and the vane to enjoy the different styles in water chaos. Again, if you ever get a way to do it, what a treat a video of this would be. It's neat that you have the only later GE suds in the club because you like and use suds-returns so much.

 

[akronman]

Hey Mickey

I'll bum a friend's video recorder soon and see what I can do--

 

The ramp machine's agitator is easily removed, this one not so much yet, maybe I'll give it a shot. And I agree, if I can video both styles in the exact same machine, exact same clothing, maybe I'll change my mind.

 

[badgerdx]

I always chuckle at "suds return"... I suppose if I was organized to wash my bed linens first and THEN wash my work clothes (typically covered in dirt and stone dust), that would work... I'm sure I'd forget and do it backwards...

 

[akronman]

Hey Applianceguy47

You were right on the GFCI. This outlet is a quad box, GFCI on one side, a regular outlet on the other side controlled by the GFCI, nothing else at all on this circuit, just those 4 spots. I just rewired it so the GFCI controls itself only, the other regular outlet is non-gfci, and no more washer stopping at that one point. The rest of the entire basement is GFCI, I think local code needs all outlets in the basement GFCI'd except for refridgerators? But I ain't selling the house or getting inspected, I'll live. No other machines have ever tripped any GFCI's, just these 2 matching GE's at the exact same point in one cycle.

 

Also--anyone interested--I was wrong above, the SUDS return starts with a dry agitate at 18 minutes on regular cycle only, then around the 15 minute mark the water level switch and temp switch kick in to fill it to the top, then it does 15 minutes of wash. It will not stop sucking if you only wanted 1/3 tub or anything, but it does fill to the brim with chosen temp water. Pretty cool, and working perfectly.

 

Like the fair weather friend I am, this will be my completely favorite machine until I get some next one up and running, lol.

 

[cornutt]

Nice pics. What is that yellow sticker at the top of the panel?

 

[westingman123]

Must be a GE thing!

My 1949 GE fridge will trip any GFCI you plug it into. Not every time, but regularly, and always at startup.

 

[applianceguy47]

Actually, compressor based products, such as refrigerators, ACs, dehumidifiers, etc. Surge much more when they start up.

For example: the first 1/2 second of a washer starting will surge 2 - 3 times the normal wattage. So a washer that uses 250 watts when operating will draw 750 watts its first 1/2 second of operation.

A compressor based appliance that uses 250 watts when operating, will surge at start up and require 6-7 times the amount of electricity. Approx. 1700 watts during the first 1/2 second of operation.

It doesn't seem like a big deal, but this sudden surge is what trips GFIs. This is why, the lights will often dim instantaneously when an appliance starts.

Also, if your looking to get off grid and use inverters to power your appliances, you need to do your calculations based on the MAX surge. Otherwise you will have problems with appliances not being able to start.

P4400 Kill A Watt

 

[yogitunes]

the idiots who built my house had a GFI installed the alcove for the freezer.....all it took was for one power outtage, and I did not pay attention to when it came back on that the freezer was not "on" because of it tripping....2 days later I went to open the door, and was landslided by a freezer full of melted food all over the floor......

it has been changed to a regular outlet since then.......

not to mention, the "Low Temp" buzzer only works if the unit has power.....a good feature that is almost a waste......and they never thought of a battery backup for that!

live and learn

 

[philr]

I have a similar suds saver valve in one of my washers and I need the rubber tubes inside it.

Did you replace them on yours?

Here's the same valve I found: I need the tubes shown on #27.

Parts for Amana DA6073: 23848 Suds-Water Saver Valve Assy Parts - AppliancePartsPros.com

Parts for Amana DA6073: 23848 Suds-Water Saver Valve Assy Parts in stock and ready to ship today. 365 days to return any part.

www.appliancepartspros.com

 

[akronman]

Phil

I did not have leaks, so I did not replace the valve/hose. If you are having trouble getting new ones, try here, maybe, Easy Appliance Parts, it's where I got the springs inside.  Even if the list says DISCONTINUED or NLA, just keep clicking thru to buy, there is some stock on some DISC/NLA items, at times.

 

The entire valve is made by Gorman-Rupp of Mansfield or Ashland Ohio, if that helps.

At the top of this thread is my washer model #<a name="start_44034.647196">WWA8355VCL</a>, maybe search for the suds parts on various parts websites using that?

 

By the way, what does your 3 hose valve do as opposed to my 2 way SUDS diverter?

http://www.easyapplianceparts.com/ModelFrames.aspx?ModelID=450268&ModelNum=WWA8355GAL&mfgModelNum=&ManufactureID=2&Selected=00006099i06&Position=4&mfg=GE&Type=Washer&Mark=4

 

[philr]

I have already called Easy Appliance Parts with your washer model number and the person who answered me didn't find the exact washer model number or the exact part... She sent me the link to fill valves and then she suggested that I call GE directly... As for the 3 hose diverter, I can't tell what it does, I haven't tried it yet! But it seems that many brands used the same valve as there are schematics for Speed Queen showing it on Sears Parts Direct (all with NLA parts of course) and other sites show Whirlpool and Maytag parts with the same number (the Whirlpool and Maytag washers I saw didn't have this kind of valve).

I tried to call again with the diagram in your link and they don't have the part in stock. (and of course, it's NLA). [this post was last edited: 1/10/2013-11:49]