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Sudsman is a Certified Hospital Laundry Manager,

and he has said more than once that a key to bacteria control is not to OVERload a washer. He tested at a range of temperatures, and a range of load sizes.

I wash white bath towels and white underwear together at tank temperature, which for me is 150F. Boiling is 212F.

Almost everything else gets washed at "Warm," which for me and my machine is about 115F.

Lawrence/Maytagbear
 
Well. I've been doing my bit, My colours and darks i alternate between 30 and 40, dependant on soil level. I've used the cool wash on my Crappoint as its slightly longer.

I still do towels and bedding on 60, Not changing that one! Whites get 40 i've done them on 30 with okay results, but i still feel 40 is necessary.

I'm also tryin not to use the dryer, so hanging everything on hangers and clothes airers! Though i do stick towels in for a quick blast in the dryer as i can't stand stiff towels!

I think once our baby comes along in december 40degrees+ maybe needed more often!

Hotpoint42: I would love to see a pic of your hotpoint if you have one!!!!!!!!

Darren
 
I still have odours regardless of how much detergent

I use a lot less now but I have used up to 120ml (I have extremely soft water) and still found the under arms had odours when ironed. This is the same with persil and Ariel
 
Well I have to admit, I never seem to get round to using 30 on my Miele even though I should do. When I do use that temperature, it's only for delicates and woolens lol.

But I will start using lower temperature washes soon and with a bit of luck, the load will come out as clean as it would at a higher tempature.

I by default do boil-washes at 95 obviously, towels at 60, normal and dark loads at 40 and some delicate and wool loads at 30.

My washing habits could change as I hope to be more eco-friendly. After all, my Miele is rated AAA so that can only be a good thing lol.
 
~I still have odours regardless of how much detergent....

At the risk of starting WWIII.

I was entrusted with washing clothing that had been flooded and was mildewed. A top-loader was necessary that used PLENTY OF WATER.

If your clothing still smells badly, may I sugggest a cool pre-wash in the front-loader, follwed by a soaking and agitation in the bathtub with plenty of detergent. Wring. Spin thoroughly in the washer. Re-wash the regular way. ADD TWO OR THREE EXTRA RINSES. SPIN THOROUGHLY.

Make sure your machine settings are such that there is spinning/extracting beween all washes and rinses.

Also if you line dry, you may want to put the items through the tumble dryer (once already dry, but not on the line for more than 24 hours) for 10 minutes heated and 10 minutes unheated to kill-off any remaing germs that may be causing odors.

Rinsing WELL and drying quickly help to prevent odors.
Alos, Your deodorant may be goo-ing up on the shirt and trapping odors. Add liquid detergent directly to that area

Good-luck.
 
With deodorants the main problem is that they're basically designed to be water-insoluble as they're designed to remain intact in sweaty warm areas. They can completely wreck clothes and become impossible remove. You end up with a gooey mixture of chemicals and trapped sweat. Perhaps consider using a different brand of deo?

There are "3 Ts" of washing controlled by your washing machine:

1) Time
2) Turbulence
3) Temperature

Time:
If you're having problems with odour removal, use a longer cycle. This will give the detergent's enzymes in particular a longer time to work.

Turbulence:
Select a cycle with decent agitation and don't stuff the machine so full that the clothes can't move about. The trick isn't necessarily vast quantities of water, it's moving a detergent solution through the clothes constantly. Most front loaders can do this very effectively, although there are exceptions...

Temperature:
Make sure that you've selected an appropriate temp. e.g. 40C.

Chemical action:
Then you've got the factors of the wash controlled by your detergent:

You said that you're using Persil (Unilever) powder. I've found that their recent forumlations of the powder detergents are pretty poor performers when it comes to odour removal. Other posters have said this too.

Perhaps try another detergent, e.g. Ariel ?

Or, alternatively try Persil Small and Mighty. It's pretty effective stuff.

Also, make sure that you're using the correct dose of any detergent for your water quality. If you're in a very hardwater area, you might consider getting some Calgon tablets and using them in each wash.

You can also get unusual problems with some t-shirts. I had one that really didn't smell very nice no matter what I did to it. Handwashing, machine washing, using any detergent known to man. It turned out to be some kind of a coating that had been used on the fabric itself. I ended up throwing it out.

Using a liquid detergent (not concentrated) on the 'pit' area might also help a lot. Often liquid detergents are better at breaking down fatty compounds and may actually have more impact than a powder on certain type of soiling.

Final tip:

Throw a scoop of Vanish wash booster into the dipensor drawer with your detergent at the start of the wash. This contains a cocktail of enzymes, but is safe to ue with colours. It has a very impressive impact on some of the toughest problems. In general it will remove ANYTHING.
 
Washing kitchen cloths/toilet cloths ... as mentioned above

A washing machine is for washing clothes, not floor cloths. It's generally a very bad idea to introduce any of these filthy items to your washing machine. If you must wash something like that, run a 95C programme or, run one immediately afterwards, or use a disinfectant solution in the washing machine like Dettol clear.

Just remember that your washing machine handles items which are in direct contact with your skin and with sensitive areas of your body!!

Would you get into a bath after having washed the dog in it without giving it a good clean out first?

I think not..
So, basically think of your washing machine the same way regardless of whether it's a front loader or a top loader.. Treat it like it's your bathtub!
 
Actually washing machines *are* for washing floor cloths. One just needs to use a real washing machine.

Look, the bottom line is, front loaders are disgusting. They've always been disgusting. Even before all this absurd eco-hysteria kicked in, and people started feeling guilty about using more than a cup and a half of water to do their laundry.

Really dirty/bacteria-filled/etc clothing (or floor rags, or whatever else) has never been a problem for most top loaders. Why? Because these machines simply use enough WATER and AGITATION to get the job done. Hot enough water + some bleach + lots of agitation, and even bacteria such as streptococcus (which, incidentally, survived nearly two years on the surface of our *moon*) is killed in short order.

Tumbling is great for drying. It stinks (sometimes literally) for washing.
 
The pack-rat friend had dozens of huge leaf & lawn bags fiul

To get rid of the foul mildew and odors I empolyed all three of my washers!

Top loading modern GE-
Pre wash and rinse with pine-oil and detergent. Deodorant/disnfectant and spritual cleaner!

Top-loading vintage GE Filter-flo.
HEAVY cycle/programme. (Wash-Rinse-Rinse)
detergent, phosphates in wash, cheap water softener in the first rinse.

Front-loader.
Three to five rinses and a super-fast spin.

Of course the dryer's lint filter was over-taxed (and filling FAST) as all the mechanical action was harsh on fibers. The dyrer was set to "inferno" temp and all items were purposely over-dried.

In the end the itmes were nearly good-as-new.

Both styles of washers have their advantages and diadvantages. One must simply adjust and be smart to take advantage fo the benefits offered by each!
 
Whether the machine is top or front loading, uses an agitator, a drum, a pulsator, a pair of electromechanical robot hands etc really makes no difference in terms of bacteria killing. If anything, a front loader is potentially more hygienic as it has the possibility of a "boil wash" cycle to sanitise the drum completely. However, you can achieve similar results in any machine by adding chemicals to the water.

There are a few things to remember.

The majority of bacteria and viruses will actually be taken care of by a warm wash with a good detergent in either front or top loading machines. It's just really if you have a specific concern, such as a family member with some kind of contageous skin disorder, or someone in your household who is immune suppressed e.g. has had a transplant and is on anti-rejection medication, is currently undergoing certain types of chemotherapy for cancer or has AIDS and would be highly vulnerable to bacteria/viruses.

In those cases, in any type of washing machine you should use a proper laundry sanitizer in the correct concentration.

It might also be a consideration to isolate their laundry.

Floor cloths, dirty rags etc should only be washed in a disinfectant solution or, if your machine allows, boiled. They are not normal clothes, and shouldn't be washed with them.

The reality of modern fabrics means that it is not possible to boil everything nor is it advisable to use the concentrations of chlorine bleach that would be necessary to kill off the bugs.

There are perfectly good laundry sanitising products available for such situation.

If you're in the UK/Ireland you can use Dettol clear disinfectant in your front loader without any problems. Just follow the dosage instructions on the back of the bottle. It will wipe out EVERYTHING and leave the laundry perfectly hygenically clean.

The concern for washing machine health and laundry hygeine is where people do very short washes with very low temps with very little detergent. This applies to both types of washing machine.

I know I came across someone in Boston who had black mould growing in their toploader. She ran all her washes on cold/cool and used 1/4 the recommended dose and used an eco-detergent. The machine was full of undisolved detergent 'gunk' and was horrible.

To fix the problem, we ran long hot wash without clothes and on heavy agitation full to the top with a strong detergent. It readily broke down the residues and most of the gunk in the machine. We followed that off with a wash with bleach.

"stinky washing machine syndrome" is generally avoidable in either type of washing machine with the simplest of steps and really has nothing whatsoever to do with the choice of wash action used by the machine i.e. H-axis drum or V-axis agitator.

In Europe, Chlorine bleach is simply not used at all for laundry. This is because detergent manufacturers moved towards longer acting peroxide bleaching methods as it was possible to create 'universal' powders that were safe to use with coloured clothes at lower temps and then took on a more aggressive bleaching action when heated up.

When automatic washing machines became the norm in the 60s and 70s, there was a huge leap forward in enzyme technology. The result was that the new 'automatic' detergents i.e. for h-axis washing machines didn't need bleach to produce very good cleaning results. The machines all have cycles which are designed to wash the clothes at temps that are optimised for enzyme activity.

Whiteness is achieved with milder oxygen-based bleaching formulas and optical brighteners.

If you want to absolutely sanitise, you add something like Dettol or similar sanitisors to the wash and they will destroy every bacterium and virus known to man!

Alternatively, you wash at a high temp.

Regardless of what washing method you use, you really just have to be aware of what you're doing if you're laundering potentially contaminated materials.

Also, your tumble dryer or even line drying will go a long way towards killing bacteria too by heating them and drying them out.
 
You can't boil wash anything with the amount of water most of today's front loaders use. The same is true for effective bleaching (whether chlorine or peroxide).

And most FLs have at least some mold present in them, often enough to smell.

Just disgusting.
 
Jeff

Do you have a front loader?
Have you ever used a modern front loader as you main washer for at least a month or two?

I think you should try it. And I´m sure your opinion about them will change a lot.

HE front loaders clean, sanitize, rinse and spin much better than standard top loaders.
This is not "my opinion", but the result of years and years of tests I did in a laundry lab.
If you can´t get good results in a front loader, then you must review your laundry methods because there´s something wrong.
 
Thomas, your age isn't listed in your profile, but it's possible I've been using FL washing machines since before you were even born. If you found HE FL's clean and sanitize better than top loaders then something was terribly wrong with your testing methods. I'm curious to know which top loaders you used for your tests.
 
Jeff, I'm much younger than you, but I used and tested more washers than a norml person can use.
For each model launched by Electrolux, I tested other 10 models from the same category available in each country.

More than that... let's think globally... why 100% of the commercial laundriers prefer tumble action instead of agitation?

Both systems have their pros and cons but, technicaly, tumble is better.

Of course both systems are different and th user MUST adjust the laundry habits to the system.
 
FL washers use far less water/detergent and are cheaper to operate. That's why most commercial laundries use them. Not because they clean as well as TL's.

And you didn't answer my question. What TL's did you test?
 
Jeff

Your question s anwered.
I can't remember the numver of washers, but I'm sure there are more than 500 different models from many countries and continents.

at least 10 models from each country

Ex. When I created insight. I studied hoovers and mieles, siemens, hotpoints, etc...

When I created the Top8 turbo clean series, I studied brastemp and consul(whirlpool) 5 models each.

It's an internal policy at Electrolux. WE MUST TEST THE COMPETITOR'S MODELS.
not to copy, but to make better

Thiking of you!
 
Thomas some Americans cant accept usEuropoeans being so clea

Whirlpool AMERICAN Toploader Rated G for wash results on a scale of A - C, A being highest G lowest due to NO internal water heater which supports a longer contact time with detergent at the right temperature, a really diluted down detergent solution (due to 5/6 times more water used) and less agitation due to said water and cushioning of fabrics in the More than needed water consumption.

Zanussi Jetsystem rated A for wash - lower water consumption and better agitation.

I tend to just walk on by when such folk have attitude problems.

FL's DO clean far superior than TL's but sadly some folk dont understand why.

Best leave em to it :)
 
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