The 'Mutt' and the Neptune
Connected to one water outlet.
Connected to one water outlet.
How are your appliances connected
- Thread starter mielabor
- Start date
Help Support :
Before
Before- duplex (with SALVAVITA=> ground-fault circuit interruptor; UK=> residual current detector).
Before- duplex (with SALVAVITA=> ground-fault circuit interruptor; UK=> residual current detector).
After with adapter
Yes, I have begun.
Would you like some American ones?
Please feel free to e-mail me privately.
Perhaps we can do an exchange.
Would you like some American ones?
Please feel free to e-mail me privately.
Perhaps we can do an exchange.
dj-gabriele
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jun 24, 2007
- Messages
- 1,685
Yeah! I really like this thread! I'm learning many interesting things! And I also liked that you, Steve, remembered about the "salvavita" lol.
And about the zip cord, yup, they're banned since the early 80s, at least here in Italy but I think it's the same in all the EU.
And about the zip cord, yup, they're banned since the early 80s, at least here in Italy but I think it's the same in all the EU.
Gary:
That grey box next to the lamp, is that a flooding alarm?
The plug on the heavy-duty dryer cord has long prongs without insulation. Is there no danger of receiving a shock while inserting the plug into the socket and touching the prongs? I have had a nasty shock as a child in this way. Back then there were plugs that looked like Europlugs but had uninsulated prongs so you could receive a shock if you held the plug the wrong way.
That grey box next to the lamp, is that a flooding alarm?
The plug on the heavy-duty dryer cord has long prongs without insulation. Is there no danger of receiving a shock while inserting the plug into the socket and touching the prongs? I have had a nasty shock as a child in this way. Back then there were plugs that looked like Europlugs but had uninsulated prongs so you could receive a shock if you held the plug the wrong way.
That grey box next to the lamp, is that a flooding alarm?
Yes, Toggles bought that for me.
We tend to be careful plugging in the dryer.
Yes, Toggles bought that for me.
We tend to be careful plugging in the dryer.
So you wanna see my hot box?
~Oh, and another thing. Why are polarised plugs so important? We don't have them and no one seems to bother.
Because we only switch one "pole", it is better and safer to switch the hot side! Goes with our logic tht the neutral shall be unswitched and uninterrupted from source to load!
OVERLOADED me?
My house came with 10 circuits and 100a service. It now has 40+/- circuits and 200a service. And I put those those 30+/- circuits myslef. (Our homes are wooden and it's easier than in a concrete structure!)
Here is my circuit-breaker panel. Note that the mains come in using a heavy gauge 2" (5cm)wide steel tube/conduit, FAR ABOVE WHAT CODE WARRANTS! All the BX (silver, armored wiring is mine).
~Oh, and another thing. Why are polarised plugs so important? We don't have them and no one seems to bother.
Because we only switch one "pole", it is better and safer to switch the hot side! Goes with our logic tht the neutral shall be unswitched and uninterrupted from source to load!
OVERLOADED me?
My house came with 10 circuits and 100a service. It now has 40+/- circuits and 200a service. And I put those those 30+/- circuits myslef. (Our homes are wooden and it's easier than in a concrete structure!)
Here is my circuit-breaker panel. Note that the mains come in using a heavy gauge 2" (5cm)wide steel tube/conduit, FAR ABOVE WHAT CODE WARRANTS! All the BX (silver, armored wiring is mine).
Close up of Leviton brand 120/240 volt "Transient Voltage / Surge Supressor"
Conects to panel via two 20a circuit-breakers.
Conects to panel via two 20a circuit-breakers.
That explains his dizziness.......
That is not mold, dear, the wall was painted green at one time!
That is not mold, dear, the wall was painted green at one time!
Have no fear, that antique valve is not the only one to cut
the bare copper wire in #271741 is a grounding/earthing wire goes outside to a stake (rod) in the garden.
The other one goes to "BOTH SIDES" (for safety of anyone servicing the pipes/meter) of the water meter on the main water inlet pipe.
(The iron pipe nearest the floor is the steam condensate return for the steam heating system).
the bare copper wire in #271741 is a grounding/earthing wire goes outside to a stake (rod) in the garden.
The other one goes to "BOTH SIDES" (for safety of anyone servicing the pipes/meter) of the water meter on the main water inlet pipe.
(The iron pipe nearest the floor is the steam condensate return for the steam heating system).
~And you use gas for the dryer....
In most parts of this country it is FAR less expensive to run than an electric one.
I used a gas dryer in my rental apartment because there was only 30a 110v sevice (with two fuses of 15a each). There was not enough electrical capacity for an electric dryer. Like you Theo, I had to be careful of what I could run at one time..
Washer and gas dryer OR
dishwasher OR
air-condtioner / supplemental electic room-heater OR
iron OR
toaster OR
vacuum cleaner.
...with some lights, the refrigerator and the television (or stereo).
The main fuse for the apartment was in the builing's basement, and the landlord HATED changing fuses. One summer, with so many air-condiners running ["It's not the heat, it's the humidity!] the whole line of apartments (a column actually) from top floor to bottom floor went out.
When the landlord was away for mini-vacations (mini-holidays)we'd go the whole weekend without power. One learns to keep the refrigerator as empty as possible! No fear the market was aroudn the corner.
NEVER AGAIN!
Oh Gary this is probably where I learned to avoid a heated dry in the dishwasher; I needed the power for other things.....
In most parts of this country it is FAR less expensive to run than an electric one.
I used a gas dryer in my rental apartment because there was only 30a 110v sevice (with two fuses of 15a each). There was not enough electrical capacity for an electric dryer. Like you Theo, I had to be careful of what I could run at one time..
Washer and gas dryer OR
dishwasher OR
air-condtioner / supplemental electic room-heater OR
iron OR
toaster OR
vacuum cleaner.
...with some lights, the refrigerator and the television (or stereo).
The main fuse for the apartment was in the builing's basement, and the landlord HATED changing fuses. One summer, with so many air-condiners running ["It's not the heat, it's the humidity!] the whole line of apartments (a column actually) from top floor to bottom floor went out.
When the landlord was away for mini-vacations (mini-holidays)we'd go the whole weekend without power. One learns to keep the refrigerator as empty as possible! No fear the market was aroudn the corner.
NEVER AGAIN!
Oh Gary this is probably where I learned to avoid a heated dry in the dishwasher; I needed the power for other things.....
Polarity
This thread is really interesting. I am learning things I never knew; and about things I didn't even know existed.
One thing worth noting, polarity.
In a single phase, independently grounded AC setup, it could be argued that there is no need for the consumer to distinguish between "hot" and "neutral". There are several good reasons for doing so.
Historically, the "All American Five" probably did more to wake people up to the dangerous of household current than anything else. These charming little beasts had one side of the chassis at line potential - and the chassis was frequently mounted directly to a metal case or had protruding conductors such as screws, dials, knobs, etc. If the plug was inserted such that the chassis was connected to "N", the risk was the same as that of any grounded object. If the chassis was connected to "L",well - lot of folks were shocked, many killed.
Making the plug only fit one way into the outlet reduced the risks. A little bit. You could, at least theoretically, thus guarantee that the chassis was always at "N" potential. Since many manufacturers didn't pay attention to the "identified" connector (that one is always "N", never "L") you still had a bad situation.
A clearer argument for polarization is the fact that it obviates the need for double pole switches. A simple switch which only interrupts the "L" line becomes realistically safe. Safer. Relatively.
Finally, as anyone who has ever changed an Edison base light bulb in the US knows, their sockets permit contact between the metal base and your fingers at some point in the screwing process. In the interest of safe screwing, having the metal shell at "N" potential and not at "L" is of clear value. Here in Europe, we do, of course, use many polarized plugs. Three phase plugs, for instance are always polarized; DC equipment in any case. Electrical inspectors may well fail an installation if the left side of a Schuko outlet (when facing it) is not "L". There is a binding recommendation, not a requirement - a concept only possible in Germany.
Interestingly enough, back when Apple first brought the iMAC to Europe, they very nearly were not permitted to sell them at the big introduction date. A few weeks prior to introduction, an idiot bureaucrat decided that the line cord was not up to European EMF standards. It was a fight down to the last days - I did some of the translating of the paperwork. For Apple, lest anyone think I was involved in the attempt to impede them. We won, but only in the nick of time.
Yes, the exposed blades of many North American plugs are a real danger. This problem also existed for the Schuko plugs in the beginning, leading to the damn recesses and impossible cleaning.
We do still have zip cord in Europe, it is sold as speaker wire and, yes, the Chinese have been known to use it for line cord...making clear that their "VDE" or "CE" labels are pure lies.
This thread is really interesting. I am learning things I never knew; and about things I didn't even know existed.
One thing worth noting, polarity.
In a single phase, independently grounded AC setup, it could be argued that there is no need for the consumer to distinguish between "hot" and "neutral". There are several good reasons for doing so.
Historically, the "All American Five" probably did more to wake people up to the dangerous of household current than anything else. These charming little beasts had one side of the chassis at line potential - and the chassis was frequently mounted directly to a metal case or had protruding conductors such as screws, dials, knobs, etc. If the plug was inserted such that the chassis was connected to "N", the risk was the same as that of any grounded object. If the chassis was connected to "L",well - lot of folks were shocked, many killed.
Making the plug only fit one way into the outlet reduced the risks. A little bit. You could, at least theoretically, thus guarantee that the chassis was always at "N" potential. Since many manufacturers didn't pay attention to the "identified" connector (that one is always "N", never "L") you still had a bad situation.
A clearer argument for polarization is the fact that it obviates the need for double pole switches. A simple switch which only interrupts the "L" line becomes realistically safe. Safer. Relatively.
Finally, as anyone who has ever changed an Edison base light bulb in the US knows, their sockets permit contact between the metal base and your fingers at some point in the screwing process. In the interest of safe screwing, having the metal shell at "N" potential and not at "L" is of clear value. Here in Europe, we do, of course, use many polarized plugs. Three phase plugs, for instance are always polarized; DC equipment in any case. Electrical inspectors may well fail an installation if the left side of a Schuko outlet (when facing it) is not "L". There is a binding recommendation, not a requirement - a concept only possible in Germany.
Interestingly enough, back when Apple first brought the iMAC to Europe, they very nearly were not permitted to sell them at the big introduction date. A few weeks prior to introduction, an idiot bureaucrat decided that the line cord was not up to European EMF standards. It was a fight down to the last days - I did some of the translating of the paperwork. For Apple, lest anyone think I was involved in the attempt to impede them. We won, but only in the nick of time.
Yes, the exposed blades of many North American plugs are a real danger. This problem also existed for the Schuko plugs in the beginning, leading to the damn recesses and impossible cleaning.
We do still have zip cord in Europe, it is sold as speaker wire and, yes, the Chinese have been known to use it for line cord...making clear that their "VDE" or "CE" labels are pure lies.
~there is the double (pole) switch for the dishwasher that is hardwired.
Although it varies state-by-state the diswhasers in my area were traditionally hard-wred. Now they must be plug-and (flex) cord connected with a switch above the machine.
I am not clear on whether the plug is allowed to be behind the machine or if it must be adjacent to the machine. (I have yet to see such a new installation).
Question: What are those somewhat large "bee-hive" devices (light blue in some photos) just after the taps and just before the hoses of the Euro washers? Are those flood protection shoucl a hose pop/break?
Oh, the (American ) National Electric Code now requires ARC fault protectors in new installations for bedroom circuits. Anyone actually have or use these yet?
Although it varies state-by-state the diswhasers in my area were traditionally hard-wred. Now they must be plug-and (flex) cord connected with a switch above the machine.
I am not clear on whether the plug is allowed to be behind the machine or if it must be adjacent to the machine. (I have yet to see such a new installation).
Question: What are those somewhat large "bee-hive" devices (light blue in some photos) just after the taps and just before the hoses of the Euro washers? Are those flood protection shoucl a hose pop/break?
Oh, the (American ) National Electric Code now requires ARC fault protectors in new installations for bedroom circuits. Anyone actually have or use these yet?
Like a GF(c)I or an RCD or a salvavita, these have conneciton to the nentral bus bar (in the main panel/consumer unit) Both the hot and neutral leads from the protected circuit's wires are attached to this device.
Steve,
If you mean the devices in Louis' picture I copied below, they are designed to prevent flooding in case of a catastrophic break. The small flow of water the machine takes won't trigger them, a sudden rupture will. Some can be configured to limit the water volume dispensed within a five minute period (or so) to a set number of liters, thus preventing even a small leak from becoming a major problem.
The modern "Aqua Stop" systems weren't introduced until the 80's. You can also buy hoses with similar systems to the ones which cut off the water that are sold in the US in case of a sudden pressure drop or use a "hose within a hose" setup-any leak, regardless how small will then close the safety valve.
If you mean the devices in Louis' picture I copied below, they are designed to prevent flooding in case of a catastrophic break. The small flow of water the machine takes won't trigger them, a sudden rupture will. Some can be configured to limit the water volume dispensed within a five minute period (or so) to a set number of liters, thus preventing even a small leak from becoming a major problem.
The modern "Aqua Stop" systems weren't introduced until the 80's. You can also buy hoses with similar systems to the ones which cut off the water that are sold in the US in case of a sudden pressure drop or use a "hose within a hose" setup-any leak, regardless how small will then close the safety valve.
Keven
That's correct. This is indeed the type that you can set to a certain maximum amount of water. There is a drain in the floor but still wanted some kind of safety measure.
My AEG dishwasher has indeed an Aqua Stop of the hose in hose type.
That's correct. This is indeed the type that you can set to a certain maximum amount of water. There is a drain in the floor but still wanted some kind of safety measure.
My AEG dishwasher has indeed an Aqua Stop of the hose in hose type.
Similar threads
