repairguy
Well-known member
I was just wondering what ever happened with this project. Glad to hear it is still in the works.
Inglis TO-41001 Commercial Belt Drive Rebuild -A few questions-
- Thread starter vegabass25
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vegabass25
Active member
Plumbing and bathroom adventures
Don't worry guys, I'm not stopping until this machines one of my daily runners. Been lots of fun so far, and it won't be my last washer restoration, either
Bathroom floors almost done. I wish the toilet where original to the house, But it's still an older, unique powerhouse. MK III Eljer emblem from 1991. I'd pull it and take it with me if I moved lol.
The cast pipe replacement was pretty satisfying. Learned alot about my house to say the least. I'll have pics of the finished job and a few along the way soon!
Cheers everyone! Snows almost gone, washer cabinets ready to be pressure washed on my next days off. Lots of gearcase oil slung around in that bad boy.
Don't worry guys, I'm not stopping until this machines one of my daily runners. Been lots of fun so far, and it won't be my last washer restoration, either
Bathroom floors almost done. I wish the toilet where original to the house, But it's still an older, unique powerhouse. MK III Eljer emblem from 1991. I'd pull it and take it with me if I moved lol.
The cast pipe replacement was pretty satisfying. Learned alot about my house to say the least. I'll have pics of the finished job and a few along the way soon!
Cheers everyone! Snows almost gone, washer cabinets ready to be pressure washed on my next days off. Lots of gearcase oil slung around in that bad boy.
vegabass25
Active member
Bearings done
Hello all!
With my bathroom and plumbing back up and running, and thousands saved taking the time to do the work myself, I'm back in full swing on the washer
Today I pressed in the new center post bearings and seals. I gave the inside of the post another quick run with a small cylinder hone, and applied a thin layer of grease before pressing in parts.
The order I used for install is as follows: I pressed in the top bearing first, then flipped the base plate and pressed in the top bearing oil seal, and then bottom bearing and it's oil seal. I then flipped the plate back right side up, and pressed in the two main seals.
It went well, with no damage to anything. I used a piece of 1-1/4" ABS pipe to press in the main seals. I chamfered the inside of the pipe so there was no pinched seal lips. Did the inner seal, then used outer seal to guide and press the final one in. For bearings and oil seals, I simply used a stack of large industrial sockets that fit just perfectly in the center post No WP FSP factory install or removal tools needed. Just large hydraulic shop press. I'm sure it could be done with a hammer and patience as well.
I plan to put a tiny bead of marine sealant at the top of the center post to make certain my repair sleeve is sealed, and the original steel center post cannot rust at the seal and damage it over time.
I'd also like to install the outer tub on the baseplate AND THEN install the assembly in the cabinet. Just makes the work of sealing it all up much easier. Am I screwing my future self over doing this?
Thanks for reading! Happy to see those bearings and seals in place! Cheers.
Hello all!
With my bathroom and plumbing back up and running, and thousands saved taking the time to do the work myself, I'm back in full swing on the washer
Today I pressed in the new center post bearings and seals. I gave the inside of the post another quick run with a small cylinder hone, and applied a thin layer of grease before pressing in parts.
The order I used for install is as follows: I pressed in the top bearing first, then flipped the base plate and pressed in the top bearing oil seal, and then bottom bearing and it's oil seal. I then flipped the plate back right side up, and pressed in the two main seals.
It went well, with no damage to anything. I used a piece of 1-1/4" ABS pipe to press in the main seals. I chamfered the inside of the pipe so there was no pinched seal lips. Did the inner seal, then used outer seal to guide and press the final one in. For bearings and oil seals, I simply used a stack of large industrial sockets that fit just perfectly in the center post
No WP FSP factory install or removal tools needed. Just large hydraulic shop press. I'm sure it could be done with a hammer and patience as well. I plan to put a tiny bead of marine sealant at the top of the center post to make certain my repair sleeve is sealed, and the original steel center post cannot rust at the seal and damage it over time.
I'd also like to install the outer tub on the baseplate AND THEN install the assembly in the cabinet. Just makes the work of sealing it all up much easier. Am I screwing my future self over doing this?
Thanks for reading! Happy to see those bearings and seals in place! Cheers.
vegabass25
Active member
Tub mounting begins
Hey all! Some late night work continues!
The other day, I punched out and glued some cardboard discs to the tub supports on the baseplate. Machine originally had a similar material there, I assume to keep noises at bay.
I'm just about finished mounting and sealing the tub. That bathtub drain washer you see in the photo is to go on the center post under the tub to keep a good pool of 3M 5200 sealant in that critical location. Pics to follow tomorrow!
I made sure I didn't forget to install the one carriage bolt for the motor mount before installing the tub Every little rust spot has been carefully removed, and given a quick wipe with the sealant as well.
After a few days of curing, I'll drill the three additional holes as John suggested for extra tub mounting bolts to make sure no new cracks forum in the tub metal. It's not super aesthetic, But it will be a reliable tub that holds water, and won't be seen.
See you guys tomorrow with pics of progress. We might be washing in a few weeks!
Hey all! Some late night work continues!
The other day, I punched out and glued some cardboard discs to the tub supports on the baseplate. Machine originally had a similar material there, I assume to keep noises at bay.
I'm just about finished mounting and sealing the tub. That bathtub drain washer you see in the photo is to go on the center post under the tub to keep a good pool of 3M 5200 sealant in that critical location. Pics to follow tomorrow!
I made sure I didn't forget to install the one carriage bolt for the motor mount before installing the tub
Every little rust spot has been carefully removed, and given a quick wipe with the sealant as well. After a few days of curing, I'll drill the three additional holes as John suggested for extra tub mounting bolts to make sure no new cracks forum in the tub metal. It's not super aesthetic, But it will be a reliable tub that holds water, and won't be seen.
See you guys tomorrow with pics of progress. We might be washing in a few weeks!
vegabass25
Active member
Tub sealed and curing!
Hello all!
A few days ago, I got the tub sealed, With extra attention paid to the center post, drain, and air dome. Per my last post, I used a bathtub drain washer to make sure none of the 5200 sealant escaped as I sealed around the center post.
The sealing washer that keeps pressure on the air domes twist lock had disintegrated. After digging through my plumbing parts stash, I found that a stainless backing washer and seal for a single handle kitchen faucet fits the air dome perfectly, and keeps just the right amount of pressure to keep it firmly in place. It also had a little sealant put on it, but I made sure to seal it from the inside as well as possible to avoid water getting in the sealing surfaces and compromising the seal with rust. The 3M 5200 bonds to the enamel and steel of the tub extremely well. The drain seal had sealant applied before tub was mounted, and then had some spread around it as well.
All tub bolts had sealant applied before and after tightening them down, and I drilled and added 3 additional stainless tub bolts as John suggested to keep the tub rigid and mitigate any further cracks. I also sealed the seams, as slight rust stains where beginning to seep from them.
I put a thin coating around the top edge of the tub as well, as there was lots of pitting and loss of enamel there. The bottom of the tub had many tiny but deep rust spots and some areas of thinned enamel. 4 of them breached all the way through. All that rust was painstakingly removed, and sealant thoroughly worked into them.
What may seem like excess sealant around the center post and drain was entirely needed, as there was lots of exposed steel and deep pitting in those areas from rust. There cannot be any exposed metal, as you all know. Especially in a machine going into routine use. The sealant is very snotty and messy to work with, But I'm happy with the results. Pics below. Thanks for reading and following these repairs guys! I'm just wrapping up getting the top and cabinet cleaned up!
Hello all!
A few days ago, I got the tub sealed, With extra attention paid to the center post, drain, and air dome. Per my last post, I used a bathtub drain washer to make sure none of the 5200 sealant escaped as I sealed around the center post.
The sealing washer that keeps pressure on the air domes twist lock had disintegrated. After digging through my plumbing parts stash, I found that a stainless backing washer and seal for a single handle kitchen faucet fits the air dome perfectly, and keeps just the right amount of pressure to keep it firmly in place. It also had a little sealant put on it, but I made sure to seal it from the inside as well as possible to avoid water getting in the sealing surfaces and compromising the seal with rust. The 3M 5200 bonds to the enamel and steel of the tub extremely well. The drain seal had sealant applied before tub was mounted, and then had some spread around it as well.
All tub bolts had sealant applied before and after tightening them down, and I drilled and added 3 additional stainless tub bolts as John suggested to keep the tub rigid and mitigate any further cracks. I also sealed the seams, as slight rust stains where beginning to seep from them.
I put a thin coating around the top edge of the tub as well, as there was lots of pitting and loss of enamel there. The bottom of the tub had many tiny but deep rust spots and some areas of thinned enamel. 4 of them breached all the way through. All that rust was painstakingly removed, and sealant thoroughly worked into them.
What may seem like excess sealant around the center post and drain was entirely needed, as there was lots of exposed steel and deep pitting in those areas from rust. There cannot be any exposed metal, as you all know. Especially in a machine going into routine use. The sealant is very snotty and messy to work with, But I'm happy with the results. Pics below. Thanks for reading and following these repairs guys! I'm just wrapping up getting the top and cabinet cleaned up!
vegabass25
Active member
Preparing cabinet
Hello to those following!
The other day I began disassembly of the cabinet, control panel, and coin acceptor. I removed the inlet valves and water level diaphragm switch as well. I started sanding and removing any rust from the cabinet and coin acceptor box. I removed any dents and repaired a back corner of the cabinet that was a little bent up. The rear levelling system now works as it should. I then pressure washed everything thoroughly with a degreaser.
I applied a little paint on the bottom ridge inside to stop rust from forming again. I also applied a little porcelain touch up paint to a few marks in the top.
Today, I leak tested the tub after the sealant has cured for over a week. No leaks whatsoever after many hours!
Tomorrow I will paint cabinet and coin acceptor, as well as clean up all the control panel and coin parts and components. I also found a new agitator cap, since the original is slowly turning to plastic dust. The larger surgolator cap should fit and cover up some unsightly staining I was unable to remove on the top of the agitator as well.
I test fit the agitator on the new agitator shaft and its a little loose on the splines. The plastic splines in the agitator don't seem to be damaged and there are no cracks. I guess the rust swelling on the old shaft expanded the opening a little. Any tricks for tightening this up? I know once the stud and seals in place it will firm things up a bit, But I'd prefer the agitator be as firmly in place as possible, while still removable for future work if needed of course.
Enjoy some cool pics of commercial washer control parts. The Singer diaphragm switch looks pretty cool. I love stuff like this. Very serviceable control section thats nice to work on. Neat how the timer drops into the coin box. Wonder if any adjustments can be made for longer wash etc. I'll also be installing a lid switch bypass toggle switch somewhere accessible in the coin acceptor box as well.
Thanks for reading as always! Any comments or suggestions always appreciated!
Hello to those following!
The other day I began disassembly of the cabinet, control panel, and coin acceptor. I removed the inlet valves and water level diaphragm switch as well. I started sanding and removing any rust from the cabinet and coin acceptor box. I removed any dents and repaired a back corner of the cabinet that was a little bent up. The rear levelling system now works as it should. I then pressure washed everything thoroughly with a degreaser.
I applied a little paint on the bottom ridge inside to stop rust from forming again. I also applied a little porcelain touch up paint to a few marks in the top.
Today, I leak tested the tub after the sealant has cured for over a week. No leaks whatsoever after many hours!
Tomorrow I will paint cabinet and coin acceptor, as well as clean up all the control panel and coin parts and components. I also found a new agitator cap, since the original is slowly turning to plastic dust. The larger surgolator cap should fit and cover up some unsightly staining I was unable to remove on the top of the agitator as well.
I test fit the agitator on the new agitator shaft and its a little loose on the splines. The plastic splines in the agitator don't seem to be damaged and there are no cracks. I guess the rust swelling on the old shaft expanded the opening a little. Any tricks for tightening this up? I know once the stud and seals in place it will firm things up a bit, But I'd prefer the agitator be as firmly in place as possible, while still removable for future work if needed of course.
Enjoy some cool pics of commercial washer control parts. The Singer diaphragm switch looks pretty cool. I love stuff like this. Very serviceable control section thats nice to work on. Neat how the timer drops into the coin box. Wonder if any adjustments can be made for longer wash etc. I'll also be installing a lid switch bypass toggle switch somewhere accessible in the coin acceptor box as well.
Thanks for reading as always! Any comments or suggestions always appreciated!
Commercial belt drive washer restoration
Hi Landon, progress looks great. I don’t think anybody in our group has ever restored a commercial machine before that’s kind of fun. What are you gonna do with all the money you collect, lol
I don’t know any way to make that agitator tighter on the shaft Maybe if you slightly heated it and put it on the shaft?
In any event, we still have those agitators around if you just want to get another one sometime, it won’t ruin the shaft. If it wears out strips out it’s pretty tough stuff though.
I still know of a Kenmore just like this that’s still in regular commercial use in a small apartment building in Northwest Washington.D C.
John L
Hi Landon, progress looks great. I don’t think anybody in our group has ever restored a commercial machine before that’s kind of fun. What are you gonna do with all the money you collect, lol
I don’t know any way to make that agitator tighter on the shaft Maybe if you slightly heated it and put it on the shaft?
In any event, we still have those agitators around if you just want to get another one sometime, it won’t ruin the shaft. If it wears out strips out it’s pretty tough stuff though.
I still know of a Kenmore just like this that’s still in regular commercial use in a small apartment building in Northwest Washington.D C.
John L
Thanks for sharing all these updates Landon. Its really great to see the progress and looks like you are putting an incredible amount of effort to do everything right. The finished product is going to last for decades I bet and looking forward to see this one come together.
As to the agitator shaft being a bit loose on the splines, can't really think of a way to rectify that really other than what John said already about warming it up a bit. I see in your pictures you have one of the plastic drive lugs to use an old style agitator as well so it gives you some more options if you ever happen to come across another agitator and it also happens to be that style.
Good luck and great job so far once again
As to the agitator shaft being a bit loose on the splines, can't really think of a way to rectify that really other than what John said already about warming it up a bit. I see in your pictures you have one of the plastic drive lugs to use an old style agitator as well so it gives you some more options if you ever happen to come across another agitator and it also happens to be that style.
Good luck and great job so far once again
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