Just got my first wringer washer, and it needs a little work so I need some help

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OMG! Haha! Pop* it out, not poo!

Yes, Mark says he had a bunch. I did not expect that to breal being a thick piece of metal, but it seems like it is made of stone rather than metal, because of all the sparkles inside insider.

Thank you! I am happy for the progress! And it is tough to keep up a good attitude about it, but at the same time, I had gotten quite upset about itk7
 
Sorry was falling asleep when I wrote that hah. I meant to say break, not "breal", and "it is tough to keep up a good attitude, but I am excited for the final product and am having fun doing the project too!" I also got out some frustration with it by cutting the worm wheel into pieces and hitting it a lot with a hammer. Haha!
And interesting fact, Larry did not take apart his whole power unit, he replaced it with a used one instead. His determination was with that tub of his though.
And I am glad you are staying tuned in! Thank you!
 
Well oh well

The plot thickens....

You may be able to JB weld that piece.
The bolt goes into the body of the gear box. So not much strain on that ear.
I believe it is cast metal. And is not hardned. Like the gears.
I'd try it, over 300.00 for a gear box. That's steep. That is the power of supply and demand.
You could find a tested working machine for that.
I know that is something you don't want to think about.

We feel your frustration.
 
Oh it is all good! Mark says he has a lot of that piece so it is an easy replacement. And why are the gears not hardened? They should be. No wonder they were all chewed up. The worm gear was the only one that wasnt, so I am guessing it is hardened.
And yeah, a power unit would be around $280 from him, and that is after him taking $100 off! But they used to charge $380 for them back when his buisness repaired the machines. This is a brand new power unit, not a used one. Completely fresh, 0 miles on it. You will not find that many places. I am gonna stick with mine and replace most of the parts.
I am not too frustrated about it now, but thank you! I just have to separate the worm gear from the TBR collar and clean the PU housing. It is soaking in vinegar and citric acid. It looks to be working quite well!
 
Gears

are hardend.
Finding parts with 0 miles on them is a rarity.
There is an appliance repair in Glendale. They have an avacado wringer. Price 500.00.
I didn't ask if it was new. I suppose that;s a deal if it is new Considering what parts cost new.

glad your not discouraged. That machine owes you many years of laundry.
 
Why thank you! It certainly does!
And I bet it is not new, probably repaired though. So many machines on ebay go for around $500 or even more! And they arent even that great looking! It is nuts! I only got this machine for $50 so I dont feel to bad, also considering that new washers cost around $500 for a "decent" one. My total should be somewhere around $500-$600 for everything once complete.
And yes, that is very rare! All the parts except the gooseneck that i got so far have 0 miles as well, like the pump for one, and the index slide, and others.
 
Oh wow! Those are in very nice shape! And I agree, it will be!
I prefer the square one to the round one myself, and one with a logo sticker to one with those metal M A Y T A G letters. But still those are extremely nice!
 
Bunker Hill Appliance

They are my family and have every single part you need to repair or restore any Maytag wringer washer. They bought every part that Lehman's had. Lehman's may have a few parts yet I think but not sure. Bunker Hill Appliances buys old Maytag wringers and totally restores them from top to bottom making them look and work like new and sells them. They are Amish. There is also a newly made washer from them that is an exact copy of the Maytag E. They are made in PA buy an Amish man who also manufactures all Maytag wringer parts. The new washer costs $1,995.00 and keep going up. They sell like wild fire. They are truly awesome.
 
Have not posted in a while. Been working on cleaning the PU, and took some breaks hah. Here are the official before pictures of the machine!
Notice how rusty the power unit housing is...

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And that is all really cool! Sounds like something that would be worth looking into! And cool that they are your family! Does the man actually make new parts for the E2L series?
 
TBH, after cleaning up the PU housing, and having more parts on the way, not a lot. I have not had a chance to work on it the past few weeks as work has been busy, and I have been tired lol. But I plan on it soon. I also have some pics of the cleaned Power Unit. I just have to finish brushing off some rust dust and JB weld some spots on the top that I cut a little by accident.
The last pic is of it before cleaning. I cleaned all the grease and rust with vinegar, water, and citric acid, and then put it in a solution of calcium hydroxide to stop new rusting.

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Heres the next set of parts I ordered. The Pinion gear is the only one that is used, the rest are new, and it is in great shape! All the gears seem to have rust on them though, so they will have a soak in citric acid and then calcium hydroxide. The worm wheel came in that original Maytag box, unopened, which I will be keeping for sure! The only thing I am a bit concerned about is a tiny chip in a tooth on the wheel. Why is there one on an unused, unopened wheel? Do you think it will be a problem? I feel like I might be worrying to much as it has a few nics in some of the teeth, and maybe the casting process for it just wasnt perfect.

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I havent gotten much done on it. Work has been very busy and so has the rest of my free time. I work on it when I can though. I basically just got all the rust cleaned off the parts of the power unit. Yet still new rust keeps forming. I am about to spray it with WD-40 specialist.
 
No. Im sorry to report that I havent worked on it at all since my last message pretty much. I have been so busy with work and things lately. I will be getting to it soon though.
 
Welo thank you Stan! It is nice to know there are people with me on this project. I have some good news too! I have decided to pick up the project again. I talked to Mark and have him looking in his shop for more parts. One of them is the slide for rack #K1416. I need a new one because I lost it. I could not find it even before I took a break from the project. So that was kind of dumb, but I will just get a new one! Lol
 
Why thank you Stan!
Does anyone here know how to pop off the agitator shaft from the center plate so I can clean the plate and replace the bearings, or should I just get a whole new center plate? I am pretty sure mine are bad.
 
I tried getting it off, and of course like everything else in the power unit that is supposed to come apart, it is stuck hah. I may end up needing a new center plate. There is so much play in the shaft.
 
I bought a pin punch set, and tried it on the pin that holds the pinion gear to the shaft, and I cant get it to drive out. The punch keeps slipping, and the good hits dont do anything.
I took apart the right angle drive though and found the pins that hold the bevel gears onto their shafts, and I was actually able to punch them out with decent ease.
Does anyone have an idea as to how to clean the insides of the tubes of the horizontal and vertical right angle drive?
 
I now have the entire thing apart, minus the wringer head. All the legs off and wheels off and apart. I am trying to remove all the rust and grease from everything.
I changed out my citric acid with vinegar bucket so I could have fresh cleaning solution. It was black from cleaning all the old parts, and had the belt guard and worm wheel sitting in it for a month or so during the break in the project. Explains why they scrubbed clean very easily. Even the old paint came off!
I have also decided to just buy a new center plate with agitator shaft assembly from Mark. He said it would be around $120, so not too bad. It is brand new old stock, still in the box! That and the other parts from him will be ordered on Monday.
Until they arrive, I have a lot of sanding of the chassis and the legs to do!
I think for the drive tubes, and a couple other greasy parts, I will wash with plain water and dawn dish soap to cut through the grease. Maybe I can figure some way to spray inside the tubes to take out the old grease. I cant use vinegar or citric acid solution on them as it rusts metal within 10 minutes if the object isnt completely submerged, and I have no way to scrub the inside. It removes rust very easily though, if you scrub it right when it comes out of the solution.
So happy to have things moving along again!
 
I now have the entire thing apart, minus the wringer head. All the legs off and wheels off and apart. I am trying to remove all the rust and grease from everything.
I changed out my citric acid with vinegar bucket so I could have fresh cleaning solution. It was black from cleaning all the old parts, and had the belt guard and worm wheel sitting in it for a month or so during the break in the project. Explains why they scrubbed clean very easily. Even the old paint came off!
I have also decided to just buy a new center plate with agitator shaft assembly from Mark. He said it would be around $120, so not too bad. It is brand new old stock, still in the box! That and the other parts from him will be ordered on Monday.
Until they arrive, I have a lot of sanding of the chassis and the legs to do!
I think for the drive tubes, and a couple other greasy parts, I will wash with plain water and dawn dish soap to cut through the grease. Maybe I can figure some way to spray inside the tubes to take out the old grease. I cant use vinegar or citric acid solution on them as it rusts metal within 10 minutes if the object isnt completely submerged, and I have no way to scrub the inside. It removes rust very easily though, if you scrub it right when it comes out of the solution.
So happy to have things moving along again!
 
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