Just got my first wringer washer, and it needs a little work so I need some help

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make your own tub to pump hose, but there's no way it won't have a bit of a kink because of the turn it has to make.
I did make one and it worked, but after I got the real one I noticed that the tub drained faster. The real tub to pump hose is unusual..or unique to Maytag wringers.
I made my own drain hose and it works fine.
For me.. I'm glad I got the right tub to pump hose though.
 
Hmm ah I see! The kink! I feel like heating the hose as I am installing it could make it bend into shape easier. I would assume that is how Maytag did it. And if it does kink a little, a slow drain is better than a leaky drain.

I could buy this hose, but in the picture, it looks like the end is roughed up, and $35 for a used 18 or so inch hose, I dont think so!

Man, I am building quite the shopping list for home depot/auto parts store!

mstone-2018032503143907345_1.jpg

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Bolts in tub plate are your biggest problem.

You can dremel a slot in the bolts. Remember these are brass bolts and softer than steel heads.
We tried it and the bolts were so tight all the screwdriver did was distort the head. So we used the grinder
and made the round heads into a regular wrench shape. It is a pain to do. On the link I gave you to daves
It tells you what size bolts to get. Once you get them out.

Once you get past them everything else is much easier.

And if you get all this figured out and you want to paint it.
I would get automotive paint, or marine paint,
Rattle can do not cure hard enough. At least what we used didn't.
 
Hmm I did think of cutting the sides of the bolts as an option. It doesnt seem like that would be too hard especially with soft metal, but it is just scary hah. I would not want to make a mistake on that for sure! And ah, true! I will use that site to find new bolts!

For painting, I was originally thinking rustoleum appliance paint, but they dont seem to have any other colors than white, black, or metallics, and I am playing with the idea of painting it a crazy color! Like electric blue or something! I thought about gold but that would not look good to me with the red release bar and agitator; copper might though. Orr maybe a forest green! Or I might just keep it stock and paint it white. I have not decided yet. The underside will get painted white though.
 
You might

Try sending Larry a email and ask about the gulmite wrench. He might let you borrow it. Or post here and see if someone's got one laying around. It will make things much easier
I painted my Maytag with Rustolium oil based enamal (white can) I mixed in a little Penetrol
I wet sanded first, washed down, then applied with hight density foam roller. I waited three days for it to fully cure, then wet sanded again with 800 grit, washed down, and did a second coat. Waited another three days, and wet sanded with 1500 grit. Then used a polishing compound. (I used white)
Other have used appliance epoxy (with good results)
I know I did it the hard way, but it's held up very well. I hate rattle cans.
Also when your ready to make the tub look new.. You can fill the tub part way with warm soapy water, and use the 1500 grit on it, and the crown, then polish with mag wheel polish.
I know I'm a little too far ahead, cuz you have bigger fish to fry, but since it seems that your going to save her..thought I'd share! LOL
 
Hmm that is true. I could do that. I suppose no one really needs that wrench after taking off the bolts and replacing them with normal bolts.
And oh my! That sounds like quite the long tedious process! That is pride in your work though for sure! I thought appliance and automotive paints are always in a spray can? That seems like it would be a lot easier lol. And is penetrol the oil version of floetrol? If so then I see how you got the brush strokes to smooth out. And what is appliance epoxy? It that a spray or brush on paint? Also was the wet sanding enough to take off the original paint on the outside?

And I can't wait to make the tub and crown shine! I love shiny things! Thank you for the suggestion!

And yeah it is a bit early, but it is exciting to think about it being done and ready to clean up and paint! Thank you for sharing!

Honestly, I am more nervous about cleaning it all up and painting it than I am about being able to take it apart, fix it, and put it back together. I can and have fixed things, but have never fully restored something. I have never painted metal before, except once, but I was not trying to make that time look good haha! It also sounds very tedious. And also the machine as a whole and the outside shell have to stay in the building they are in without me painting anything in the room its in, for discretion.
 
Yes

Penetrol is the oil version of Flothrol, I remember having to order it online because it isn't sold in CA.
Most appliance epoxy paints I've seen are in rattle cans.. unless there are brush types?
I painted mine outside with the oil based enamel during the warms months, due to the fumes. The epoxy spray has a pretty nasty fume too.
It took less than a quart of paint fir me to do mine.. There's not that much surface area. It takes some patience for drying times but..
Dont know if you've gone through Larry's thread, but he took everything apart, cleaned, repaired, replaced, repainted and re assembled. I remember there was some tricky spots he had to work out.
I need to go re read it.
As far as the gulmite wrench.. well you know what they say.. the right tool for the job!
Someones got one they ain't using! LOL
 
Oh

Almost forgot.. No I did not sand old paint off. I started with wet sanding it with 300 grit to get it smoothed out, but etched enough for my first coat to adhere.
Here it is

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Oh wow Stan, your machine is beautiful too! Great work!

So you did use a brush type then?
And I am glad to hear I dont have to sand it off completely and it doesnt take that much paint.

I have read a lot of the thread but not all of it yet. I think when I paint my parts underneath, I will want to use clear paint so I can still see what they origonally looked like!

I'll put up a new thread for the wrench.

I am eagerly awaiting that parts manual so I can understand the agitator shaft better. I still don't understand how it seals water from leaking out through there. I am guessing there is a thick rubber seal?
I also found a 60s era instruction manual for the machine for only $6, so I thought what the heck! And I bought it.
 
The pump pieces have been soaking in citric acid solution all night, and soon I will try scrubbing them. Bad news though; in trying to unscrew the rubber wheel so it would not soak, I broke off another fin of the impeller. I could try some JB weld on that maybe? But I dont know if that would even work. That piece is soaking too. I wish I could get a new pump.
 
Also, how does that metal end with the screw on it fit onto the hose? And how does it come off? Will i have to cut some of the outside of the new hose so that it is thinner?
 
I just had an idea. Rather out of the box.

Now this sounds crazy but... Are you familiar with impellers in boat motors? (we are waiting for a new one for our evinrude) I wonder if they make a large ones. That could be some how fitted.
They do the exact same thing. This is what they look like.
https://www.westmarine.com/buy/sier...inrude-outboard-motors--1656834?recordNum=114

What screw are you speaking of?

If mine goes out I can gravity drain into the bathtub. But I think I'd try a marine impeller if that happened,
Pinky is a gravity drain.
flip the pump on and WOW what a racket. There's always one more thing to fix.
 
Huh! That could potentially work, if it was the right hieght, and if I could figure out a way to get the screw to attach to the center of this impeller. The screw is the metal shaft of the rubber wheel and impeller. It is built into the rubber wheel and it screws into the impeller which holds both in place.
 
Alright you guys, it is time to start gettin down to buisness! I got a few things in the mail and we nt shopping today! Here is what I got:
Mail:
Power unit and wringer head gasket set
Cork tub gasket
Tub groove gasket with plug
Worm shaft seal
Maytag service manual and parts catalog with Phil's parts catalog
Instruction manual for the machine

Advance auto:
Valvoline 80w-90 gear oil 16oz
Valvoline multi purpose grease 1lb
CRC brakleen spray can

Home depot:
Can of Rustoleum clear coat rust inhibitor
Barkeepers friend
Scotch bright scrub sponges
#000 steel wool
#3 steel wool
Pair of gloves
800 and 1500 sandpaper
JB weld
Brasso metal polish
3 hose clamps
A perfect 7/8 in id x 1 1/4 in od x 10 ft washing machine hose
2 brass elbows to make a hook over the sink

I know I still need:
•6 replacement bolts along with washers and gaskets for them - I looked and I did not know the proper length for them, and they only had zinc ones, and I want stainless steel to avoid rust
•paint to cover the machine - I havent picked my color yet
•a new agitator seal - really badly
•most likely still a new pump- I will try saving the old one
• likely more grease
•maybe some zoom spout for the motor if it has a way I can oil it
•a new index slide if mine cannot be fixed

How does my list look? Is there anything else you guys think I need?
 
You are talking about this manufacturers part number yes? And not Maytag's - their's is A4298. And this is the same seal that is in my washer? That is crazy to me that it is still made, and fits with other automatic washers!
Thank you so much!
 
Fitting automatics

I dont know about that, but the bag says genuine whirlpool parts. I got this from Phil a few years ago.
Worth a shot I dont remember if the washer and clip came with it. I think it did but cant be sure.
 
Parts...

.
Maytag Wringer Washer Parts - $10000 (2202 S. 6th Ave.)

condition: new
make / manufacturer: Maytag/Frigidaire/Whirlpool

Approximately $20,000.00 in wringer washer parts, & other washer, dryer, & refrigeration parts. Complete wringer heads, bodies, agitators, center plates, gears, gaskets, grease, decals, tools, motors, belts, etc. Some are still in the original packaging. There are also Speed Queen wringer parts.

contact name:
Mark
call or text
☎ (520) 624-4489[this post was last edited: 3/28/2018-20:39]

 

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