Just got my first wringer washer, and it needs a little work so I need some help

Automatic Washer - The world's coolest Washing Machines, Dryers and Dishwashers

Help Support AutomaticWasher.org:

Possible source for parts. And my 2 cents worthof experience

I have read here on the forum that Lehman carries parts for wringer washers, although it is not listed in their store inventory. I called the phone number and she said they did (at that time)
This is the Amish store Stan was referring to.
https://www.lehmans.com/?partner_id...MIyKD5hOCC2gIVR5N-Ch1miAvTEAAYASAAEgLshPD_BwE

Also on Ebay there is a complete power unit ( gear box) Pricey at 170.00 with free shipping https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Ma...534534?hash=item1ca5403bc6:g:I0cAAOSwx2hasH3d

We restored a pink E2lp. And I was lucky to find (on ebay) a gearbox with plate as the one listed above.
At that time Phil had the index listed. And I bought the gasket for the gear box to center plate.
Large circular rubber gasket, And the rubber seal for the spline (tub seal) and small ring gasket that keeps the gryator from floating.

We made the other gaskets with material from auto parts store.

Removing the gulmite bolts is a PIA. we ended up cutting them off. And in removing the threaded part of the bolts, stripped the threaded holes in the top of the gear box. Yea a real bummer,
Gulmite wrenches.
Phil had one listed in june 2017 42.50 that did not sell. He may still have it.
I fear the seal from spline (tub) to gearbox has failed if you have water going up to the weep hole......
Phil has that seal listed on ebay now.

While searching for parts, another wringer was on craigs list. 50.00.
Call him and I explained how to start it and
and get the wringer to work. He was nice enough to see if it worked. It did and does.
Now I have 2. ( I am so fortunate)

With the knowledge you have now, a donor machine may be the ticket.
But still need the special wrench to get the
bolts off.
Daves repair is not in business, but here is link to his page that shows you what the wrench is and size of bolts required.
We got standard bolts with washers when we put pinkie back together.

http://www.davesrepair.com/Parts/MYT-38518-Gulmite-Wrench.htmI

I know there are wiser than I here on the forum. That may give you better advice.
Good luck.

can't beat a wringer for cleaning and getting laundry done fast.
Here's a pic of Her royal Highness. MISS PINKIE.
I figure her total cost was around 250.00 with parts and purchase.
Labor HA HA cant' put a price on that as
many many many hours spent on this project.
But I have a machine that will be running long after I'm gone.

tinkr-2018032310103708088_1.jpg
 
As an eBay Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
Your pump

Whitey lost a paddle off her pump. Found it in the bath tub. She still pumps fine.
If the others are not corroded through It is still usable, I would think. Get it as clean as possible and smooth paddles. I call them paddles don't know the proper name.
 
Tinkr, thank you very much for your helpful response!
I checked out this store and called their phone number for the warehouse, and their number for their store and pressed buttons for a customer service rep, but I dat on hold for a while and got no response. However, I did leave a message the second time i called and asked that they get back to me tomorrow. We will see if they do.

I heard back from Phil! And he listed the gasket set for me! Hopefully that is all of them that I need. I would think there would be a thick seal for the agitator shaft that I need that stops the agitator from wiggling. He also has a worm shaft seal, the two gaskets for the tub, and a service manual with parts catalog, all of which I will be ordering. He also had a tub to pump hose which I may get if I find out why I cant just make my own. I have asked him a few other questions about if he has any of the other parts I need available, and if he combines shipping (because it is adding up unnecessarily). However I have not heard back on those, so i think maybe I should just order the 5 parts now? Or 6 if I get the hose.

I saw that transmission for sale too, and thank you for showing me also! I believe it is too expensive, it is a bit rustyer than mine, and it has some leaks of its own. So it would also need a servicing. It is Best Offer but still would likely be over $120. Their description says "looks to be in good shape works good".

Is the rubber tub seal the one that would seal the agitator shaft? I think that is the only one I would be missing if I ordered everything right now. And also it is good to know that someone else has made gaskets for their machine with that material! I will do that for any the set doesn't cover.

When I aksed what parts he had, I asked about a pump, gulmite wrench and replacement bolts, and an index slide, but again have not heard back yet. I am trying to decide if I should just order what I can now or wait and see if he replies and order all at once.

And nice that you had a parts donor machine! That is always helpful!

And wow! That machine is beautiful! Looks pristine! I would hope for my machine to run well long after I am gone too, and I am only 22 hah!

And the pump, the other blades do seem a bit corroded, but maybe still intact enough? I would be much much happier just getting a new pump if I could, as its rubber wheel is also flat on part of it, and the pumps gasket is ruined now that it is apart, and also part of the hose connectors are rusted off.

I am very excited for the day when I can use this machine to actually wash my laundry! That will be so cool!
 
round gasket seal on ebay

This seal goes around the plate that bolt to the tub. I hope you can make out the grove in my picture,
Yes you will need it if you can get the bolts out.
If your machine is agitating Your gear box is working you just have water leaking thru the seal.

It looks like you have enough metal left on the pump hose attachments to use it. Finding parts is hard so don"t throw out something that might still work.
Also J&b weld would thicken thin areas if you have any. And cures hard and can be filed or sanded
Oh maybe that could be used to fix up your pump hose attachments. I have a lot of experience with J&B

Looking at the pic you are seeing the spline straight down. If you can make it out there is a washer at the base held in by a metal clip under that is the tub seal

This plate came in the pink washer it was so corroded and thin I used J&B the thicken up the tube the spline fits thru. I didnt use it on the rebuild because the gear box I got had one on it.

tinkr-2018032411312909113_1.jpg
 
OH the long plug. Yes I got that but.. sorry

Oh That I think is used to center up something. Its in the manual. I don't think we used it at all.

My allergy med makes me loopy. Hope I've made sense.

Oh for cleaning off grease I used ammonia outside with a fan blowing the gas from me. It works great.
And I used it straight.
 
Thank you tinkr, and you are making sense! Lol.
I ordered these 5 parts from phil today:
Thin groove tub gasket
Cork tub gasket
Service and parts manual
Worm shaft seal, as mine was leaking
And the gasket set that includes the trans and wringer gaskets

He did not message me back, but I saw their were other people watching the items I needed.

I still need a shaft seal for the agitator.

I will not throw any parts away, even after this project is finished, I just would rather find a new pump. I have never used JB weld before, but it sounds like a good idea. What is it? And could I use it to fix up the impeller and rebuild the 4th fin?

And weird, I dont know what that long thing is for but it is coming with the gasket.

I cant wait for the repair manual and parts catalog to come! That way I will know what parts are left that I need.

And what is the story with the tub to pump hose? I did not order that one because it would cost over $30 for a short hose. I need a new one and a new one of the drain hoses. Why cant I just make my own? Could I soak it in hot water to bend it easier?

Hopefully I will have all gaskets with this order, but I am pretty sure I will at least need an agitator seal.
 
JB weld

2 part epoxy cold weld steel
https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-8265S-Cold-Weld-Reinforced/dp/B0006O1ICE

Drain hose I found the right size at Lowes. It is clear.
The tub to pump. I didn't have to replace. There"s an off chance that an auto parts store may have a hose radiator hose that would be able to work. That's a long shot.

Gorrilla glue stops leaks on a water mattress pad I have. And I put it on a hole in the Tub to pump on my white wringer and I use whitey
all the time with no leaks.

Working on vintage items is a challenge. You have to be able to think outside the box.
 
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
Hmm JB Weld sounds like some good stuff for the pump. It would be great to fill in the missing paddle with it.

The drain hose I am not too worried about finding. I would think home depot or the like would have black rubber hoses in multiple sizes. My tub to pump hose is completely ruined. It has multiple splits and I had to wreck the pump end of it to get the pump off, and I havent even gotten the other end off the tub because it is in such an awkward place. But once I take the machine apart it will be easier to get off. The splits it had already made me not worry about wrecking it.
I feel like i could buy some new black rubber hose and heat it while putting it on for it to fit.

And yeah! That is for sure!
 
You can

make your own tub to pump hose, but there's no way it won't have a bit of a kink because of the turn it has to make.
I did make one and it worked, but after I got the real one I noticed that the tub drained faster. The real tub to pump hose is unusual..or unique to Maytag wringers.
I made my own drain hose and it works fine.
For me.. I'm glad I got the right tub to pump hose though.
 
Hmm ah I see! The kink! I feel like heating the hose as I am installing it could make it bend into shape easier. I would assume that is how Maytag did it. And if it does kink a little, a slow drain is better than a leaky drain.

I could buy this hose, but in the picture, it looks like the end is roughed up, and $35 for a used 18 or so inch hose, I dont think so!

Man, I am building quite the shopping list for home depot/auto parts store!

mstone-2018032503143907345_1.jpg

mstone-2018032503143907345_2.png
 
Bolts in tub plate are your biggest problem.

You can dremel a slot in the bolts. Remember these are brass bolts and softer than steel heads.
We tried it and the bolts were so tight all the screwdriver did was distort the head. So we used the grinder
and made the round heads into a regular wrench shape. It is a pain to do. On the link I gave you to daves
It tells you what size bolts to get. Once you get them out.

Once you get past them everything else is much easier.

And if you get all this figured out and you want to paint it.
I would get automotive paint, or marine paint,
Rattle can do not cure hard enough. At least what we used didn't.
 
Hmm I did think of cutting the sides of the bolts as an option. It doesnt seem like that would be too hard especially with soft metal, but it is just scary hah. I would not want to make a mistake on that for sure! And ah, true! I will use that site to find new bolts!

For painting, I was originally thinking rustoleum appliance paint, but they dont seem to have any other colors than white, black, or metallics, and I am playing with the idea of painting it a crazy color! Like electric blue or something! I thought about gold but that would not look good to me with the red release bar and agitator; copper might though. Orr maybe a forest green! Or I might just keep it stock and paint it white. I have not decided yet. The underside will get painted white though.
 
You might

Try sending Larry a email and ask about the gulmite wrench. He might let you borrow it. Or post here and see if someone's got one laying around. It will make things much easier
I painted my Maytag with Rustolium oil based enamal (white can) I mixed in a little Penetrol
I wet sanded first, washed down, then applied with hight density foam roller. I waited three days for it to fully cure, then wet sanded again with 800 grit, washed down, and did a second coat. Waited another three days, and wet sanded with 1500 grit. Then used a polishing compound. (I used white)
Other have used appliance epoxy (with good results)
I know I did it the hard way, but it's held up very well. I hate rattle cans.
Also when your ready to make the tub look new.. You can fill the tub part way with warm soapy water, and use the 1500 grit on it, and the crown, then polish with mag wheel polish.
I know I'm a little too far ahead, cuz you have bigger fish to fry, but since it seems that your going to save her..thought I'd share! LOL
 
Hmm that is true. I could do that. I suppose no one really needs that wrench after taking off the bolts and replacing them with normal bolts.
And oh my! That sounds like quite the long tedious process! That is pride in your work though for sure! I thought appliance and automotive paints are always in a spray can? That seems like it would be a lot easier lol. And is penetrol the oil version of floetrol? If so then I see how you got the brush strokes to smooth out. And what is appliance epoxy? It that a spray or brush on paint? Also was the wet sanding enough to take off the original paint on the outside?

And I can't wait to make the tub and crown shine! I love shiny things! Thank you for the suggestion!

And yeah it is a bit early, but it is exciting to think about it being done and ready to clean up and paint! Thank you for sharing!

Honestly, I am more nervous about cleaning it all up and painting it than I am about being able to take it apart, fix it, and put it back together. I can and have fixed things, but have never fully restored something. I have never painted metal before, except once, but I was not trying to make that time look good haha! It also sounds very tedious. And also the machine as a whole and the outside shell have to stay in the building they are in without me painting anything in the room its in, for discretion.
 
Yes

Penetrol is the oil version of Flothrol, I remember having to order it online because it isn't sold in CA.
Most appliance epoxy paints I've seen are in rattle cans.. unless there are brush types?
I painted mine outside with the oil based enamel during the warms months, due to the fumes. The epoxy spray has a pretty nasty fume too.
It took less than a quart of paint fir me to do mine.. There's not that much surface area. It takes some patience for drying times but..
Dont know if you've gone through Larry's thread, but he took everything apart, cleaned, repaired, replaced, repainted and re assembled. I remember there was some tricky spots he had to work out.
I need to go re read it.
As far as the gulmite wrench.. well you know what they say.. the right tool for the job!
Someones got one they ain't using! LOL
 
Oh

Almost forgot.. No I did not sand old paint off. I started with wet sanding it with 300 grit to get it smoothed out, but etched enough for my first coat to adhere.
Here it is

stan-2018032702243903437_1.jpg

stan-2018032702243903437_2.jpg
 
Oh wow Stan, your machine is beautiful too! Great work!

So you did use a brush type then?
And I am glad to hear I dont have to sand it off completely and it doesnt take that much paint.

I have read a lot of the thread but not all of it yet. I think when I paint my parts underneath, I will want to use clear paint so I can still see what they origonally looked like!

I'll put up a new thread for the wrench.

I am eagerly awaiting that parts manual so I can understand the agitator shaft better. I still don't understand how it seals water from leaking out through there. I am guessing there is a thick rubber seal?
I also found a 60s era instruction manual for the machine for only $6, so I thought what the heck! And I bought it.
 
The pump pieces have been soaking in citric acid solution all night, and soon I will try scrubbing them. Bad news though; in trying to unscrew the rubber wheel so it would not soak, I broke off another fin of the impeller. I could try some JB weld on that maybe? But I dont know if that would even work. That piece is soaking too. I wish I could get a new pump.
 
Also, how does that metal end with the screw on it fit onto the hose? And how does it come off? Will i have to cut some of the outside of the new hose so that it is thinner?
 
I just had an idea. Rather out of the box.

Now this sounds crazy but... Are you familiar with impellers in boat motors? (we are waiting for a new one for our evinrude) I wonder if they make a large ones. That could be some how fitted.
They do the exact same thing. This is what they look like.
https://www.westmarine.com/buy/sier...inrude-outboard-motors--1656834?recordNum=114

What screw are you speaking of?

If mine goes out I can gravity drain into the bathtub. But I think I'd try a marine impeller if that happened,
Pinky is a gravity drain.
flip the pump on and WOW what a racket. There's always one more thing to fix.
 
Huh! That could potentially work, if it was the right hieght, and if I could figure out a way to get the screw to attach to the center of this impeller. The screw is the metal shaft of the rubber wheel and impeller. It is built into the rubber wheel and it screws into the impeller which holds both in place.
 
Alright you guys, it is time to start gettin down to buisness! I got a few things in the mail and we nt shopping today! Here is what I got:
Mail:
Power unit and wringer head gasket set
Cork tub gasket
Tub groove gasket with plug
Worm shaft seal
Maytag service manual and parts catalog with Phil's parts catalog
Instruction manual for the machine

Advance auto:
Valvoline 80w-90 gear oil 16oz
Valvoline multi purpose grease 1lb
CRC brakleen spray can

Home depot:
Can of Rustoleum clear coat rust inhibitor
Barkeepers friend
Scotch bright scrub sponges
#000 steel wool
#3 steel wool
Pair of gloves
800 and 1500 sandpaper
JB weld
Brasso metal polish
3 hose clamps
A perfect 7/8 in id x 1 1/4 in od x 10 ft washing machine hose
2 brass elbows to make a hook over the sink

I know I still need:
•6 replacement bolts along with washers and gaskets for them - I looked and I did not know the proper length for them, and they only had zinc ones, and I want stainless steel to avoid rust
•paint to cover the machine - I havent picked my color yet
•a new agitator seal - really badly
•most likely still a new pump- I will try saving the old one
• likely more grease
•maybe some zoom spout for the motor if it has a way I can oil it
•a new index slide if mine cannot be fixed

How does my list look? Is there anything else you guys think I need?
 
You are talking about this manufacturers part number yes? And not Maytag's - their's is A4298. And this is the same seal that is in my washer? That is crazy to me that it is still made, and fits with other automatic washers!
Thank you so much!
 
Fitting automatics

I dont know about that, but the bag says genuine whirlpool parts. I got this from Phil a few years ago.
Worth a shot I dont remember if the washer and clip came with it. I think it did but cant be sure.
 
Parts...

.
Maytag Wringer Washer Parts - $10000 (2202 S. 6th Ave.)

condition: new
make / manufacturer: Maytag/Frigidaire/Whirlpool

Approximately $20,000.00 in wringer washer parts, & other washer, dryer, & refrigeration parts. Complete wringer heads, bodies, agitators, center plates, gears, gaskets, grease, decals, tools, motors, belts, etc. Some are still in the original packaging. There are also Speed Queen wringer parts.

contact name:
Mark
call or text
☎ (520) 624-4489[this post was last edited: 3/28/2018-20:39]

http://https//tucson.craigslist.org/app/d/maytag-wringer-washer-parts/6536578048.html
 

Similar threads

K
Need 1948 kenmore help
Replies
0
Views
177
Kenmore1948
K
brpeter
Maytag Wringer Washer Restoration
Replies
8
Views
628
bradross
bradross
J
Speed Queen Wringer washer agitator
Replies
0
Views
221
jjsmachine
J
countryford
1953 Hotpoint
Replies
6
Views
383
Unimatic1140
Unimatic1140
rollermatic
1-18 help please
Replies
6
Views
145
rollermatic
rollermatic

Latest posts

Back
Top