Laundry Habits

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vintagesearch

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hello everyobdy?!!!

im wondering if anyone else does this: (or similar)

-all dark colored shirts (black/brown/dark blue red) *cold wash normal setting*
-all dark towels socks undies *cold wash heavy duty setting*
-all dark lounge pants jeans sweat pants mixed *cold wash heavy duty setting*
-jeans/slacks (black) *cold wash heavy duty setting*
-jeans/slacks (dark blue)*cold wash heavy duty setting*
-jeans/slacks (light colored)*cold wash heavy duty setting*
-light colored (orange/baby blue/gray/whites with prints or logos) including towels and light color socks *cold wash heavy duty setting and soak*
-light colored assorted delicates *cold wash handwash or delicate setting
-dark colored assorted delicates*cold wash handwash or delicate setting
-all white t shirts and some very light gray t's *hot wash overnight soak and extra rinse on heavy duty*
-all white socks white towels and white undies and light gray articles of the same *hot wash overnight soak and extra rinse on heavy duty*

good enough seperation? ohh and everythings turned inside out pretreated and evenly loaded.
 
Habits

Kinda off the topic of seperation but I have the habit of running whatever washer i'm using through the heaviest of cycles. Anyone else do this? Like no matter what I will always run "Heavy Duty" cycle.
 
I'm curious - why the overnight soak? My machine has a 60 minute soak cycle that is combined with whatever other cycle I like and it's always been plenty to get even my grungiest white socks clean. All I use is Clorox Oxi bleach and detergent in the soak cycle.
 
Phosphates, bleach and good rinsing makes for whitest whites

~I have the habit of running whatever washer i'm using through the heaviest of cycles.

I use the shortest cycle on my newer GE top-loader whnen washing darks. It beats the clothing to death.

Whites, however, get the full treatment.
In my FridGeMore front-loader (which probably uses a scant bucket-full of water (2 gallons / 7+/- litres)or two of water.

prewash with phosphates and powdered detergent, warm water
bleach, hot water
rinse, hot water

wash, hot water (free & clear type liquid detergent)
rinse with softener, (using bleach dispenser)cold water
rinse, cold and all subsequent rinses.
rinse
rinse

rinse
rinse
rinse

The two sets of three water fills are accomplished by using the "Short Wash" cycle.
 
Ok you boys and girls and girly-boys. Go patent a system wherby one can customize and create cycle/programmes (a la the super-unimatic). And I do mean flexibly, not what is already avaialble to "learn" your favorite options.

(Robert, tap tap tap, we're wating... *LOL* ducks and runs)
 
Depends

Here in Germany: ,
-Silks: 30°C, no enzymes, oxygen bleach, powder with phosphates
-Wool: 30°C, no enyzmes, no bleach, "Woolite"
The two above, "Silks/Woolmark" program, 600rpm spin, very high water level, five rinses, about 70 minutes
-Cotton Clothing: 40°C, enzymes, oxygen bleach, phosphates, TAED
-Cotton T-Shirts, socks, boxers, towels, etc:
60°C, enzymes, oxygen bleach, phosphates TAED or not 'cause not needed at 60°C
The two above, "normal program", 2800 rpm spin, automatic water level ("A" grade savings), five rinses, about 2'30"
-Linen like cotton, but 1200rpm spin and hung carefully to minimize wrinkling
I don't wear synthetics if I can avoid it, microfiber cleaning cloths are washed according to their label, never automatically dried. Always use water softener, zeolith based.
I can't stand fabric softener and strong laundry scents.
When I am in the US:
-Since the hottest water is only about 40°C, I use an enyzme booster with TAED. Good oxygen bleach, non-scented liquid HE detergent, extra rinse and spin at 1000rpm.
But I let clothes soak in the enzymes for at least two hours, makes an enormous difference.
The Thumper is the only TL permitted to touch my silks, no bleach, no enzymes, overfull rinse obviates need for extra rinse - otherwise into the FriGEMore on "Delicate" with double rinse.
American TLs need far more water and detergent to do a good job compared to American FLs with far less water and detergent. But nothing comes close to what modern European detergents with phosphates and enzymes can achieve even in a pail of water without agitation...when is someone going to find a truly effective substitute for phosphates? And why are enzymes still not in more common (read: cheaper) use in the US?
When using a Thumper, no need to repeat the wash. With the Maytag Dependable Care, I usually add another 10 minutes to the normal wash time...
I want to see Thumpers come back! In their old quality! And put phospates back into the detergents! Add all five enzymes in common use here in Europe!
 
My System

This is generally how laundry day goes at our house.

Sorting:
Whites
Light Pastel Colors
Medium Colors
Darks (navy blues and blacks)
Reds
Bed Linens
Towels (white and pastel)
Towels (dark colored)

I rarely presoak unless I have something rather nasty, preferring to rub some Ivory soap on spots as I load the clothes into the Whirlpool DD.

I add about a tablespoon of STPP and between 1/4 and 3/4 cup Ivory soap jelly (4 bath sized bars grated into 1 1/4 gallons of water, simmered until dissolved and cooled), depending on load size and soil level. Wash temperature is usually on warm (100F) or temperature-controlled cold (70F) with extra rinse on. On heavily soiled whites, I will use some hot water with some Oxyclean type bleach added.

For the final rinse, I usually add about 1/4-1/2 cup white vinegar scented with essential oil (about a tsp of orange oil to a quart) to add a fresh smell and control soap residue.

That system works well for our stuff, it's cheap, and our laundry looks better than 90% of what's out there, from what I can see. I don't know where that places me in this group, but my other half says I'm a fusspot...LOL.
 
I Generally....

....Use the Regular cycle on my centre-dial 'Tag, and the Warm/Cold setting for water. Gets things really clean, no hassles, no worries.

If something's really grungy, it gets Hot/Cold. Delicate stuff (which, as a guy, I don't have too much of), gets the Delicates cycle (Fabric-Matic on this MOL 'Tag) and Cold/Cold.

That's pretty much it. Just proper sorting and my three basics- detergent, oxy powder, and liquid softener. Chlorine bleach is used only as absolutely necessary. Works very well for me.

P.S.: Oxy powder is the greatest invention since the wheel, I swear. Not only does it whiten without the damage of chlorine bleaches, it removes deodorant residue from the pits of shirts. Shirts are remaining wearable far longer than before. Since I schvitz profusely, Mitchum anti-perspirant is a must. But it left a horrid yellow-white stain that didn't respond to the old handy hint of soaking with white vinegar. Since oxy powder, no more pit stains, and no more discarding shirts because of them. Yay!
 
my practice:

Jeans: Hot wash, warm rinse, regular cycle/action

Colored stuff(T-shirts, sweatshirts, undies, dress socks...ect) warm wash cold rinse, regular cycle/action.

Whites: Hot/warm, with a soak first.

Linens & Towels: Hot/Cold, regular cycle and action, and usually a 2nd rinse.
 
-Clothing like Jeans, T-shirts and sweaters at 40°C sometimes also at 60°C to get rid of bad smells. Regular short cycle. Never bleach of any kind, only color powder or liquids.

-Sheets and underwear of any color even black ones at 75°C. Cycle and detergent as above.

-Towels, dishtowels and socks at 95°C. Regular long cycle. A powder that contains oxygen bleach or a standart liquid if stains are not too bad.

I am not so fussy with sorting by color but I wash everything new garment seperate for the first time at the temperature that fits my laundry habits to see if it bleeds. I always use an extra rinse and some FS.

Question to Kevin:
Where do you buy detergents with phosphates in Germany?
 
Ganz einfach

I just through in two Somat tabs.
Only needed when washing really dirty clothes and I need to hold a lot of dirt in suspension.
I lived with an Ökofreak for 15 years. I swore after that, no more Kaltwasser Wäsche mit Ecover and skip two rinses to save water ever again.
Do you really need 75°C with TAED products? I haven't had to do that for years, even with the Schmutz David left on his (and my!) clothes.
 
In my Kenmore DD

white cottons--hot water, plenty of good detergent, oxygen bleach every other time, double wash time and 2x rinse

dark sturdys--1/2 hot 1/2 warm water (I keep my hot water pretty cold), detergent

dark synthetics--1/3 hot 2/3 warm water, detergent, White King water softener

Every other washday: white synthetics (mostly UnderArmour t's and compression shorts and jockey synthetic underwear...1/2 hot 1/2 warm, partial load, double rinse
 
I knew

liquids didn't, was not aware that color powders don't, tho' that makes sense.
I don't use color powders here in Germany - no need for me. In the US, detergents need so much help, I either take Persil with me or spend the money for some really good enzyme/oxygen bleach detergents to boost the performance of US HE liquids.
Personally, I am trying to lower my carbon footprint by carefully and slowly introducing higher efficiency practices into my everyday life.
If I feel something needs more than 60° can offer, I will either go with Sagrotan or directly to 90°. Of course, except for friends' children, the life of a university lecturer is not exactly "dirty". Since I always seem to be spilling coffee, tea and fruit juices on myself, oxygen bleaches solve my problems.
It's fun to compare, isn't it?
Ny the way, does anyone else still use "Blücher Gall-Seife?" I love it.
 
Pretty simple

Warm/Cold wash for everything Full Loads, except the most delicate baby clothes then cold/cold (rare and then small to medium load)

Tide liquid or Cheer Prefer Tide but Cheer appears to be easier on the fabric.
 
Uh.......

Mixed darks. Warm wash, cold rinse. Gentle wash/Fast spin-extended. SA8, Tri-Zyme, All Fabric Bleach. Downy in winter

Whites. Tank hot water, cold rinse. Gentle/Fast-extended. SA8, Tri-Zyme, or SA8 and Clorox (rarely). Downy every other load. When REALLY soiled, a warm pre-wash.

Towels-bath. Tank hot(160F), cold rinse. Gentle/Fast, SA8, Tri-Zyme, All Fabric Bleach, usually Downy-April Fresh.

Towels-kitchen. Tank hot, cold rinse Gentle/Fast. SA8 and Clorox (usually).

Anything else, according to label.

Maytag Dependable Care LAT9806.

Lawrence/Maytagbear
 
I wash my 100% cotton,white T shirts,boxers,briefs socks,bath towels,washcloths and white fitted/flat sheets,pillow cases in hot(170F) wash water and warm rinse water.I use Clorox's new spill resistant bleach every third wash and no fabric softner.These are all intended to dry us off or absorb sweat.Fabric softner takes away the absorbancy.I hang them outside and run the towels 10 minutes in the dryer to take away the stiffness when needed.

I wash lightly soiled colorfast clothes in warm with a warm rinse and 1/2 the recomended amount of fabric softner.

I wash lightly soiled non colorfast clothes in cold water with a cold rinse and 1/2 the recomended amount of fabric softner.

I wash dark colorfast towels together in warm water with a warm rinse and no fabric softner.I have no dark, non colorfast towels.

I wash the light colorfast towels in hot water with a warm rinse.No fabric softner.

I was my Hawaiian shirts in cold water with a cold rinse with fabric softner(recomended amount) and hang them on a plastic clothes hanger to dry.

Bedspreads are done with a warm wash and warm rinse and 1/2 the fabric softner recomended.

My clothes always smell fresh and clean and I always get complements on that.Some people think they're smelling my after shave or cologne which I rarely use.I was at a restaurant one night after work and the girl behind me asked what cologne I was wearing. I told her "Gain" she laughed her but off!
 
Fiberglass

What do you guys do with clothes that have been in contact with fiberglass? Every time I have to handle something like batt insulation, it doesn't seem to matter if I pre-wash and use extra rinse or how many times I run them through, they still have fiberglass in them, and then when I put them on again, they itch.
 

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