The Automatic adjust setting is for people washing dishes with very little soil overall, but that soil being hard to remove (people pre-rinsing dishes before washing, basically).
In those cases, the optical sensor would read no or very little soil and select a very short, gentle wash cycle and thus fail to remove the soil that is there.
The adjustment setting thus changes cycle behaviour to run more intensive regardless of soil sensed.
The "max" cycle variant is the same though - it's just more easy to trigger.
BSH has a similar setting now, and in some literature that setting has been recommended for eco DW detergent aswell to counter it's weaker cleaning power.
Some people who run a lot of low soil washes but with stains like tea or coffee like that setting aswell as the tendency to higher main wash temps helps with bleaching those stains away.
On my G7000 series and if I am not mistaken the G6000 series aswell, the prewash on Auto is cold.
Load size sensing happens in the first few minutes and IS NOT repeated if it decides to run a prewash, aka drain and refill.
3.8L for the prewash isn't outrageous, maybe a little on the high side.
And an initial fill of 3l for the main wash is correct aswell, with maybe some refilling, though unlikely.
About 5min into the mainwash, not long after the detergent is added, heating SHOULD start.
Given where your machine appears to keep adding water is where it should start heating.
Which is totally in line with the fact that that pressure switch is used as a heater safety.
The machine behaves normally, then it wants to heat. It trys to heat, but the pressure switch says the water level is to low (even if it isn't).
The machine trys to rectify the issue by adding water, causing the way to high water usage.
A normal pre-wash, wash, rinse, rinse used between 12-14l.
Regeneration of the water softener could add another 4l.
Adding 6l ontop of that for 2 heated fills gets you to about 24l, right where you report it to be.
That makes me very confident in the diagnosis.
In those cases, the optical sensor would read no or very little soil and select a very short, gentle wash cycle and thus fail to remove the soil that is there.
The adjustment setting thus changes cycle behaviour to run more intensive regardless of soil sensed.
The "max" cycle variant is the same though - it's just more easy to trigger.
BSH has a similar setting now, and in some literature that setting has been recommended for eco DW detergent aswell to counter it's weaker cleaning power.
Some people who run a lot of low soil washes but with stains like tea or coffee like that setting aswell as the tendency to higher main wash temps helps with bleaching those stains away.
On my G7000 series and if I am not mistaken the G6000 series aswell, the prewash on Auto is cold.
Load size sensing happens in the first few minutes and IS NOT repeated if it decides to run a prewash, aka drain and refill.
3.8L for the prewash isn't outrageous, maybe a little on the high side.
And an initial fill of 3l for the main wash is correct aswell, with maybe some refilling, though unlikely.
About 5min into the mainwash, not long after the detergent is added, heating SHOULD start.
Given where your machine appears to keep adding water is where it should start heating.
Which is totally in line with the fact that that pressure switch is used as a heater safety.
The machine behaves normally, then it wants to heat. It trys to heat, but the pressure switch says the water level is to low (even if it isn't).
The machine trys to rectify the issue by adding water, causing the way to high water usage.
A normal pre-wash, wash, rinse, rinse used between 12-14l.
Regeneration of the water softener could add another 4l.
Adding 6l ontop of that for 2 heated fills gets you to about 24l, right where you report it to be.
That makes me very confident in the diagnosis.
