Miele W1065

Automatic Washer - The world's coolest Washing Machines, Dryers and Dishwashers

Help Support :

Oh, there's nothing wrong with the "installation", as such. It's just the past lives that are catching up with the poor 1065.

I will know that the suds are gone when I run a 200F main wash with STPP without foam suppresset with no sudsing. It's that simple!

If I had way more experience with this particular washer mechanics, I'd open it up and expose the inside of the outer drum. I'm sure I'd see little soap bars in the shape of animal crackers. If so, eventually, they will all dissolve and the problem will be resolved, non-surgically.

Oh, and I took a sample of the shop outlet and matching plug. Turns out it's an obsolete design... I could file off the angle on the ground prong and get a NEMA5L to work, sort of, but I'd rather not go that route. I will check in with a local electrical supply house next week (I work just a block from one) and see if they can solve my "Hubble Trouble".
 
While the Miele tech was installing my unit, he checked every thing out, changed the door boot, removed the inner glass porthole and cleaned it out, and while the front was off the machine (necessary to change the boot), gave everything a once over. Well everything that could be seen from the front that is.

L.
 
Thanks Cimbi. I will bid on that one, I think. Price may well be less than I could spend on parts alone. The plugs won't fit what I'm using now, but I can always rewire the Miele end. I know the plugs are available at OSH/Home Depot, unlike the obsolete Hubbell plugs I'm currently using.

PS-Got fed up and ran about 2 qts of white vinegar in the 1065. Seemed to free up more encrustation, with little to no sudsing. Also ran a scoop of Borax in another wash, not much sudsing there either. But the instant I put in a scoop or two of STPP/Sodium Silicate, suds start up, and get somewhat un-manageable by the time the temp reaches 200F. (all these different additions are on separate main washes, so you know I've been spending a lot of time trying to descale/de-suds this thing). I know there is encrustation becuase it's collecting at the bottom of the makeshift laundry tubs I'm using (upgraded from 20 gallon muck bucket to 32 gallon plastic trash can today). Also cleaned out the coin/lint trap again. There was a black encrustation at the bottom of it, had to scrape that off. This revealed a small channel of some sort, which turned out to be plugged, so I unplugged it as best I could. Don't know what the channel is for, but it felt good to unplug it ;-).

More news on the 1065. Intermittantly, and sporadically, it makes a loud noise while tumbling. I'm guessing there is an automatic belt tensioner in this machine, and the bearings are shot in the rollers. Just an educated guess, but my experience with other machinery (namely a lathe I own) that makes a similar sound when the belt tensioner is mal-adjusted leads me to believe this is the case with the 1065 as well. It may be wishful thinking, since a new motor reportedly costs something like $800. So it would seem that I will be taking the front off the machine anyway, to check out the source of that sound. Might as well pull the boot and poke around the inside of the outer tub while I'm at it. Also planning on pulling the front panel on the 1918, as its pump sounds like it's loose, and the motor makes a faint buzz (not as concerning at this time as the loud noise from the 1065).

Also finally got an industrial grade garden hose (75 ft) so I can now send the drain water from the "laundry tub" to the one drain in the shop - no longer do I have to send it out a window into an unplanted area. Progress.

Meanwhile, my regular laundry is being handled by the trusty old Neptune. Since its major repairs three years ago, it's been very reliable, knock on powder coat.
 
Loud Noise:

If it sounds like a goose being strangled, then it is normal and caused by air getting into the pump,IIRC. Happens when machine is over-loaded, over-foaming, or when the water level drops below a certian point as the machine is tumbling (such as while draining), and air gets to the pump. Damn annoying, but is my one clear indication my machine is either overloaded or has too much suds.

Creda Power Splitter,

Am almost certain this is the second go around for this item, thus if it does not sell, seller may not relist. There was a Miele splitter on a week or so ago,but guess auction has ended as cannot find it now.

Encrustation:

As Andy Griffth told Aunt Bea - "Call da Man" *LOL*

Call up Miele and get a few boxes of their descaler, maybe you can find a member who is a dealer that can hook you up with a discount, then run several cycles at 200F to get whatever is in that machine out. Must say don't remember my 1070 being that badly encrusted. Mouldly around the pump and door boot yes, but what is to be expected when a front loader is shut up and sitting unused as mine was.

Whatever brews you dream up/try to clear the problem, take heed that their are some sensitive sensors and such inside Miele wash drums. Perhaps more on the 1918 than the 1065, but they are there and can be harmed by certian chemicals. Must be the previous owners used heavy powdered detergents and or perhaps not very high wash temperatures; those factors along with hard water can lead to massive gunking of any machine.

Wish you the best of British luck on your project. Know how you feel though, couldn't wait to get my Miele up and running,it sat for a good week or so until the old unit was shifted, and Miele tech arrived for the install. Then to make matters worse didn't have the proper outlet, so had to wait a week for electrican to come out.

L.
 
The pump of my Miele W715 makes kind of a rattling noise. These pumps are noisier than the older ones. I believe almost all newer pumps are louder than their older counterparts. When I bought a new AEG frontloader in 1993 the pump was simply loud. Very cheap sounding. Miele makes better ones, but not as good as the old ones IMHO.
 
Thanks Cimberlie and Louis...

I am used to the "empty tub" pump noise, but that's not what the 1918 is doing. The sound of the pump suddenly changed from relatively quiet to very loud and rattling. I checked the coin trap and it's still clean. I suspect the pump is loose on its mounting, becuase it's sort of a rattling sheet metal type of sound.

I haven't used any descaler type chemicals in the 1918, so its sensors are as yet unmolested. The 1065 has seen lots of STPP, Borax, white vinegar, and lime juice (!). But the intermittant motor/pulley noise has been there from the beginning. At first I thought it was part of the vintage Miele charm symphony, but I no longer subscribe to that notion. I think I agree, a call (or online order) to Miele for their descaler is in order. From your post it sounds like it takes one order per washer per treatment. At $20 a pop, that could get sort of pricey. I will also look into descalers at my local appliance parts store. Perhaps they have something that would work just as well. But since I'm going to take off the front of the unit anyway to inspect the pulley system...

Part of the reason why I get stuff like this is so that I can take it apart and learn how it works. Certainly the Mieles promise to fulfill that goal.
 
Quick Question:

How did you move your Miele washers? Did you reinstall the shipping bolts? Maybe something got shifted during the move and could be the cause of the noise?

As for the descaler: I'd look into Dishwasher/Washing Machine Magic or any of the other descaling products sold for automatic washing machines, dishwashers or even boilers. Bound to be along the same lines as the Miele (surfactants, and various types of acids), and probably much cheaper than the imported Miele product).

L.
 
Shipping bolts? Nowhere to be found at either of the sellers' premises. I did move them gently, but I do agree that the 1918 at least may have suffered some shifting of internals either during the move or more likely when it was moved from the basement of the half-way house to the garage some time prior to my purchase.

All is conjecture until I can get the machines open for inspection. At this point I'm probably not going to run any more loads in either one until I know more.
 
Original owner long ago lost the shipping bolts for my machine. Had to order a new set (very dear), and have them shipped down to the seller, who very nicely offered to insert/prepare the unit for freight pick-up.

When ordering the shipping bolts, Miele's tech told many, many times either the Miele pepole themselves doing the installation, or Miele authorised installers take the shipping bolts away with them after work is done. This can cause problems later if the owners wish to shift the machine or sell it on, because it means they now must pay for something which came "free" with the unit. My shipping bolts are back in their original shippping box, saved in case of a move.

Creda Splitter:

Happy to see you won the item! Atta boy! Look forward to seeing if the splitter works out.

L.
 
My assumption has been that since both machines spin to top speed with load with no balance problems, that nothing major was dislocated in the move even without shipping bolts. My gut feeling is that they are needed when being handled by commercial shippers, who may treat a crated appliance with all the loving care of an airline baggage handler, but for gentle homeowner moves with no sudden jolts, they may not be required.

Will know more when the machines expose their innards.
 
Exposing the innards

Hi Suds,

Both machines are designed to be serviced from the front for the most part.

There should be a screw on either side of the lid, 3 bolts around the door opening, and a few screws around the detergent drawer.

The lid is hinged and once the screws are removed it should just lift up.

The door boot, may or may not be held in place with a wire ring and a spring. If there is no wire ring, then it is sandwiched between the outer door and the inner frame.

Once you remove the screws around the detergent dispenser and the bolts around the door, the front panel should be hinged on the right and just swing open.

One word of warning, two out of four old machines that I've opened, I've never been able to get to seal properly again without a new door boot. Just something to keep in mind before you break in :)

Also, all Australian and Euro machines up until about 10 years ago, all had brush motors. Now all machines other than the TOL ones still have brush motors. I've got the motor out of a W1065 here, I'll try and take some pictures tonight to show you where they go. Unfortunately though, you need to remove the motor from the machine to change them, and its a bear of a job.

I hope this helps.

Regards
Nathan
 
Nathan, strange you state that the 1065 has motor brushes. When I contacted Miele tech support/parts department about my 1070, specifically asked if the machine has brushes in the motor ( was concerned about them wearing out and parts being NLA), and the tech went up and down the parts list/diagrams and repeatedly told me that my unit did NOT have brushes.

Maybe just caught one tech on a off day, will call again and pose the same question.

L.
 
New Boot

Ordered one for my 1070, before it arrived, just in case the one with the machine was rotted, and was so glad I did because the thing was totally gross. Took the nice young lad doing the install better part of 20 mins or so to fit the new boot on. Required lots of tugging and stretching from what one could see, but guess that is why the thing is water tight.

Cannot remember what the new boot cost, but like all things Miele, it was not cheap. Think still have the invoice somewhere.

L.
 
Nathan,

Thanks for your post. Too bad I didn't read it until now, but no worries. I spent the better part of the evening taking apart the 1918, and discovered the same fact you mention: that the front panel is hinged on the right, and the lid easily slides off after you pull the two screws on either side.

The 1918 is squeaky clean; there's reason to believe it never saw much use, but was, rather, an object of study at a local household products company's R&D labs. In any case, I tightened up a few fasteners while I was in the process, and satisfied myself that the pump wasn't loose. After I got it all buttoned up, I ran a mixed load and observed that the bottom panel/pan is responsible for most if not all of the rattling noise during drains. No problems with leaks after closing the front panel, but, then, I didn't pull the boot off the outer tub.

I picked up a remote infrared thermometer over the weekend. I observed that the 1918 runs a bit cooler than the dial would indicate. At 140F dial selection, the actual temp is between 132F and 136F. In contrast, the 1065 got to a real 200F.

I was thinking the most direct route to the motor would be if one were to tip the machine on its back, and the pull the bottom pan. Otherwise one would have to pull the boot, inner drum and outer tub, etc, which certainly would be a bear since it weighs so darn much.

I agree with those who say the Miele is very well built. Not only is the entire outer cabinet thick porcelain coated steel, but the internal struts braces etc are also porcelain coated steel
 
Saw that auction earlier,dryer looks interesting. From the seller's tone, don't expect him to let go of these units for "a song". The remark "can these units down to the Salvation Army ... and take the tax write-off", says quite allot. Far as one is concerned he can haul his tat anywhere he choses and good luck. Da noive, a washing machine with a faulty timer that will cost probably as much if not more than what the seller is trying to flog the washer for in terms of parts and labour; assuming one does not do the work themselves. Even if one could do the work, parts have to come from Miele, and they are not always cheap.

L.
 
Any washer that requires manual intervention is no longer an automatic washer in operation; and while I commend the seller for his honesty, I do think he's trying to capitalize on the Miele reputation without giving due consideration to the cost to the buyer.

For example, my 1065/1050 pair cost me $400, plus perhaps $40 for gas there and back (truck gets lousy mileage). Plus time. A new Miele capable of 190F runs for just under $2000, although I saw a clearance tag on one recently so it may be less as dealers are clearing discontinued stock. Anyway, let's say my 1065 needs a new motor. I understand the motor part alone is $850, not including labor. That's nearly 1/2 the price of a brand new Miele.

The same goes for so called classic reliable cars. They are only as reliable as the maintenance and repairs go. All machines eventually wear out and need major repairs - unless they are just left to sit, unused, and even then things like rubber, oil, grease, sealants, etc dry out or deteriorate despite the best of care. Heck, one can get a new 4.0 cu ft 110 volt Miele for $1600 ($1900 for the top of the line model). If the motor in my 1065 is bad, as in bad bearings, I'm prepared to try to rebuild it myself, as I have the skills and access to machining equipment to do a lot of stuff the normal owner wouldn't attempt. For me it's more of a collector's item. New timer/controller for the 1070 in the listing? Who knows? I'm guessing the part would start at $400.
 

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