Miele W1918 Bearings
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Finally, this gives a cross-section of the seal above showing the internal metal. The overall shape of this seal is best seen in the overview photo (bottom left) but note that I needed to use aircraft shears to cut it and then bend it prior to separating the inner washing drum from the outer tub. It is quite mangled in these photos.
pierreandreply4
Well-known member
just a tough????
hello after seeing those pictures i don't know if its worth reparing if this would happen to my whirlpool duet washer i would buy a brand new or vintage top loading washer because i have my doubts that this is reparable as i think that this repair would actualy cost the price of a brand new washer?
hello after seeing those pictures i don't know if its worth reparing if this would happen to my whirlpool duet washer i would buy a brand new or vintage top loading washer because i have my doubts that this is reparable as i think that this repair would actualy cost the price of a brand new washer?
There are seals, and then there are seals...
Not on topic, but I just got through replacing the valve guide seals on the V8 motor in my vintage van. Wow, what a pain of a job that was. That the motor was still in the vehicle meant a lot of contortions to get at the various parts. And getting the right tools and tools that could fit into the tight spaces. Once I got the technique mastered (which too about four tries), things went more smoothly. 16 valves, with two seals per valve.
At the end of the seal replacement I had to adjust the valves, hot, with the motor running. It was at that point that I realized why the motor had been running so poorly. The valves didn't have enough preload on the hydraulic adjusters, so they were barely opening. After I increased the preload to the ballpark where it should be, the van is running 100% better. And it doesn't stink at idle any more.
Back to the topic: STPP will do wonders for preventing mineral buildup inside any washer. That's because it doesn't form scale when it encounters minerals - instead it surrounds them and keeps them in solution, so they can be rinsed away. Really is a miracle chemical.
Not on topic, but I just got through replacing the valve guide seals on the V8 motor in my vintage van. Wow, what a pain of a job that was. That the motor was still in the vehicle meant a lot of contortions to get at the various parts. And getting the right tools and tools that could fit into the tight spaces. Once I got the technique mastered (which too about four tries), things went more smoothly. 16 valves, with two seals per valve.
At the end of the seal replacement I had to adjust the valves, hot, with the motor running. It was at that point that I realized why the motor had been running so poorly. The valves didn't have enough preload on the hydraulic adjusters, so they were barely opening. After I increased the preload to the ballpark where it should be, the van is running 100% better. And it doesn't stink at idle any more.
Back to the topic: STPP will do wonders for preventing mineral buildup inside any washer. That's because it doesn't form scale when it encounters minerals - instead it surrounds them and keeps them in solution, so they can be rinsed away. Really is a miracle chemical.
inner spider corroded, need to replace or find compatible
After convincing myself to open up my W1986 Miele washer, I found the part that needs to be replaced. The pictures talk for themselves... Aluminium and Magnesium spider ? But why? The bearings and seal seems in ok condition. Anyway my ideal scenario would be to find a compatible part made of stainless steel this time. Any chance someone has ventured in finding such a replacement compatible part for the inner spider. If not I know this is a 6 kg capacity, would another similar Miele model sold for parts would be a potential donor ? Thank you for your help.
After convincing myself to open up my W1986 Miele washer, I found the part that needs to be replaced. The pictures talk for themselves... Aluminium and Magnesium spider ? But why? The bearings and seal seems in ok condition. Anyway my ideal scenario would be to find a compatible part made of stainless steel this time. Any chance someone has ventured in finding such a replacement compatible part for the inner spider. If not I know this is a 6 kg capacity, would another similar Miele model sold for parts would be a potential donor ? Thank you for your help.
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As one or maybe two members went through same or close situation and posted about their plight.
Bottom line is new parts from Miele Canada will dear, and IIRC certain bits only come as an assembly. Your other option is what many others do in such a situation, find another Miele washer from same model series/takes same parts, and swap things out.
There are tons of DIY vids on Youtube regarding this matter:
As one or maybe two members went through same or close situation and posted about their plight.
Bottom line is new parts from Miele Canada will dear, and IIRC certain bits only come as an assembly. Your other option is what many others do in such a situation, find another Miele washer from same model series/takes same parts, and swap things out.
There are tons of DIY vids on Youtube regarding this matter:
Thanks to Bowsfixer and Laundrylady for resurrecting this zombie thread.
Why? Because I was trying to remember just when I adjusted the valve preload on my '67 Chevy Van. I guess I could always consult the service log I keep on all my vehicles, but ... there is my post up there, from 2011, telling the story. Yay.
More recently, I had cause to have to service the air cleaner housing on the van V8 motor. But that's another story.
And my advice about STPP still is good. The one thing that occurred to me now, if STPP is so good, why not add it to radiators? The reason is simple: STPP, for all its usefulness in a washer, is unstable, and would deteriorate into plain Sodium Phosphate rather rapidly in a hot radiator. It works just fine in a washer, where it spends itself latching onto hard water minerals and keeping them in solution so they can be flushed away. But in a car radiator the STPP would soon be inactivated and instead of preventing hard water mineral deposits, actually could form them.
It may help to think of STPP as a high energy chemical compound. It spends that energy by bonding to minerals and keeping in solution in a "complex". In storage, over time, STPP will release that energy and degrade into a simple, not complex, phosphate. We know this simple phosphate as TSP: Tri-sodium phosphate, which is often used to prep surfaces before painting. It's ok for cleaning walls before painting, because it won't stick to hard surfaces. But for fabrics etc it might cause a whitish residue which is the result of it bonding to hard water minerals and falling out of solution as a precipitate, which can look like lint on fabrics.
OK, enough of that.
PS-I actually have a Miele 1918 in my workshop, along with a couple of older 200F Mieles. I used the 1918 sparingly, mostly for whites. But I've got lazier for the past few years and have switched to using the Maytag Neptune for whites instead. Maybe one of these days I'll fire up the 1918 again, just for old times sake (and to get some stubborn stains out of white dish/hand towels that won't go away any other way, save chlorine bleach, which I refuse to use on fabrics).
Why? Because I was trying to remember just when I adjusted the valve preload on my '67 Chevy Van. I guess I could always consult the service log I keep on all my vehicles, but ... there is my post up there, from 2011, telling the story. Yay.
More recently, I had cause to have to service the air cleaner housing on the van V8 motor. But that's another story.
And my advice about STPP still is good. The one thing that occurred to me now, if STPP is so good, why not add it to radiators? The reason is simple: STPP, for all its usefulness in a washer, is unstable, and would deteriorate into plain Sodium Phosphate rather rapidly in a hot radiator. It works just fine in a washer, where it spends itself latching onto hard water minerals and keeping them in solution so they can be flushed away. But in a car radiator the STPP would soon be inactivated and instead of preventing hard water mineral deposits, actually could form them.
It may help to think of STPP as a high energy chemical compound. It spends that energy by bonding to minerals and keeping in solution in a "complex". In storage, over time, STPP will release that energy and degrade into a simple, not complex, phosphate. We know this simple phosphate as TSP: Tri-sodium phosphate, which is often used to prep surfaces before painting. It's ok for cleaning walls before painting, because it won't stick to hard surfaces. But for fabrics etc it might cause a whitish residue which is the result of it bonding to hard water minerals and falling out of solution as a precipitate, which can look like lint on fabrics.
OK, enough of that.
PS-I actually have a Miele 1918 in my workshop, along with a couple of older 200F Mieles. I used the 1918 sparingly, mostly for whites. But I've got lazier for the past few years and have switched to using the Maytag Neptune for whites instead. Maybe one of these days I'll fire up the 1918 again, just for old times sake (and to get some stubborn stains out of white dish/hand towels that won't go away any other way, save chlorine bleach, which I refuse to use on fabrics).
