MOVING A MAYTAG E2L

[e2l-arry]

Stan

1/4 inch between the bottom of the power unit and the X frame. That's what the Service Manual says. At that gap it should align up with both the horizontal drive and the tub. Anything else and it would be out of sync. That's BAD!

Jim, I saw on Whitelightening's post. My mother's first washer was that blue trimmed Speed Queen in 1947. In 1952 she wanted an automatic and it was sold to my Grandmother who used it until 1964. The last time it was used was June 1968 by yours truly and it's been out in the barn since. I can't imagine what the gaskets and seals on that thing must be like after 44 years but I know they'd be willing to sell it. Last time I was there they also still have the 1956 Kenmore electric dryer and an electric 1951 Westinghouse stove. Heck, the old wood cook stove that THAT replaced is still there! I don't know how easy it would be to get replacement parts a Speed Queen would be. You see quite a few vintage Speed Queens but nowhere near as many as you see Maytag's. I suspect Speed Queens & Kenmore's were a bit cheaper.

I'm hoping the last of my shipments get here today. Then by Saturday or Sunday I should be ready for wash! I have a 2 week supply. I haven't done laundry since the Friday Night Fart episode of 2 weeks ago tomorrow. That's when I decided I either needed to throw a Depend on the old girl or correct the condition. As you all know, I took the more dignified approach

 

[wringer]

Larry,

If I were closer to you I would definately be interested in the old Speed Queen. But, being in Ohio it is just not possible. One thing bad about Speed Queens is that the parts are not available close to me or anyplace else I know of. Lehman's in Kidron, Ohio no longer carry Speed Queen parts. I think they are getting out of the wringer business. That place is only an hour from me. My Amish connection will not touch a Speed Queen :-(.

Jim

 

[e2l-arry]

READY FOR ROUND 2!

Everything showed up today, Here's the new tub. A little elbow grease, a little SOS, a little wet sanding, a little Mother's Mag & Aluminum polish. . . I know the drill.

Also my E-Bay power unit assembly showed up too. It was a bit rough, like the picture. But what I couldn't tell in the picture was that it is green? Makes me think it's from a REALLY old Maytag. But it's the exact same as mine so I went ahead working on it. It too still had a thick Bosco fluid still in it even though it had been drained prior to shipment.

Then I sprayed it out with cleaner and checked it out. I decided I would use it. Reason being, I never found root cause of mine locking up and this one had no metal in it and no chipped teeth on the worm wheel. I proceeded to clean it up. Used the engine de-greaser. Then I wiped it down with lacquer thinner, let dry and went t it with my mouse sander. I am SO glad I bought that at the start of this project. Highly recommended!

Next I took all the pump hardware, sanded it down too. Finally, I wiped everything down with lacquer thinner a second time and sprayed with primer. They'll be ready to paint with the Rust-Oleum tomorrow after work.

Here's a picture of the new tub "BEFORE" You KNOW there'll be an "AFTER" LOL

 

[e2l-arry]

Today's parts primed for paint

Here's the new stuff that arrived today. Got them all prepped, sanded and painted with primer. In the picture is my mouse sander. If anyone does any sanding on wood or metal, in small areas, I can't say how much this little contraption has saved time and tedious labor. Gotta love Black & Decker. Any company who's motto is "If you don't look good, We look like a bucket of shit!" is all right with me.

In the background you can see the green rt. angle drive and pulley I took off the EBay purchase. Note: the pulley is NOT pump compatible. I'll swap that out with mine.

 

[wringer]

Hi Larry,

That power unit looks like all 3 of mine. That tub is in great condition. As you say, a little TLC will have it shining new in no time. I never saw anything green on a Maytag before. But, I have not seen all of them. Just curious if it had been repainted at one point? Good Luck !!

Jim

 

[e2l-arry]

We're coming to,

the home stretch here. I painted the P.U. this afternoon so won't install until tomorrow. If the paint's not 100% cured, who cares? It's on the BOTTOM.
Also painted the pump hardware today.

I'm planning my re-assembly. I'm thinking I'll install the power unit first. BUT!, without the center plate. Get this set up with no oil spills, then add the 12 oz. of the 90 wt., install the center plate, make sure it runs, then install the tub.

If that's the wrong sequence for any reason, let me know.

Got the crown of the new tub almost to where it should be. And I have the new 8 ft. drain hose from Dave. On one hand, it's long with the goose neck at the end, but on the other, I like the black industrial washer hose with the spiffy goose neck. Looks more "stock" I have a great idea for a hook to tub too.

 

[stan]

Larry

Don't know how much of a departure from the service manuals instructions for "re assembly" that is, but sounds O.K to me!
You would also hook up the right angle drive and wringer post, prior to the installation of the tub though, right?

Without looking (at the manual) I would think filling the P.U and closing it up with the center plate (two bolts) right away, is where my mind go's first, but you have interesting idea! That might make it easier!
Do you think the P.U, and center plate, would be stable enough with out it being bolted to the tub, to "run" without ?

Geoff where are you!

 

[geoffdelp]

WOW ... ready to go!! I'm right here, Stan.

That's the right sequence Larry. Install the power unit first without oil and after installed, THEN add the oil and put the center plate on. You DO NOT WANT to turn on the machine with the power unit full of oil and no center plate!!! That's nasty when that happens ... been there, done that!!

You will want to keep the tub off while installing the pump, also. Make sure the pump wheel is making correct contact with the flywheel before you put the tub on. You can make final adjustments after tub is on and ready to go.

About the hose(s). I would suggest you stay as close to the stock one as you can. see the one from Dave and the only problem is that if the hose is ever laid down while you have a tub full of water, water will come pouring out. The pump doesn't stop the water from draining; it only aids in the quick removal of it. It's up to you, but just remember that you want that hose out of the way and up when you are washing.

 

[wringer]

G'morning Larry,

I always have to come to this thread first with my morning coffee to check on your progress. That tub shine is beautiful. I know nothing about the reassembly but it sounds like you, Stan and Geoff have it all under control. Jeff, I am wondering how many gals you have rebuilt? Anyhow, I will be here again to check on your progress Larry. GREAT JOB !!!!

Jim

 

[geoffdelp]

Jim ... a lot. Not sure how many; I have 9 in my collection right now. That includes the Model A. Two E's need to have done what Larry is doing.

I used to help re-build them for the Maytag Shop in St. Cloud, MN a number of years ago. They would sell them as fast as I could get them done; I would go in to the shop in the evenings after work and over the weekends to restore them. We would sell a nicely restored E for $400. The wringer heads were always tricky, if there was a problem. The Maytag Shop still had a gentleman who used to work on them and get them running properly again; I never mastered the gearing within the wringer head. I could do most everything else but that! I still am going to try to do it some day; I've got a junked one in the garage that I could rip apart and not worry that I need to have it for one of my machines.

These machines were really built well and we would do what Larry is doing; have an extra power unit and a center plate ready to go in case the one we were working on was shot. The cost of the gears made it almost cost prohibitive to completely rebuild a power unit; it was better to find one in decent condition and junk the old one. Maybe nowadays a guy could pick up parts off and on and then rebuild one for a lot less money. You have to pound out the gear bars and break the factory seals. I no longer have access to the tool that was used for the thrust and it is almost necessary to have that in order to adjust the movement of a rebuilt power unit.

 

[e2l-arry]

I have a plan!

For the drain hose. I'm not going to use the 8 footer from Dave. It looks like a hose for a modern washer. Plus I don't need 8 feet of hose. I'm not draining this into the neighbors basement tub! I have the tub to pump hose connection from Phil. Then I have the new gravity drain hose I bought when I first bought this washer. I discovered yesterday that I was able to remove the white metal cap at the drain end of the hose. You know the part. Pump models are threaded, gravity drain are not. So that white cap is glued on with a rubber cement type adhesive. I was able to pry it off by wedging a screwdriver in between and prying it off. Now I'll connect one end to the pump and my new goose neck on the other. I should have some extra length since the gravity hose connects to the center plate and the pump hose connects to the pump, I figure I'll have en extra 12 inches or so. To hook it to the washer I'm going to cut the hook off a clothes hanger. A plastic light blue one. Then with a hose clamp fix that onto the hose and use the hanger hook to hook it onto the tub. Only use plastic hanger ends. NO WIRE HANGERS!!!! We don't want to upset Joan Crawford!

 

[stan]

Geoff

what about Larry's idea of "running" or testing before tub installation? I'm concerned that without the tub in place, it wont be stable enough for him to spin up the motor?
Bet Larry's on it right now, and already has it figured out! And done two loads of laundry LOL

 

[geoffdelp]

Stan ... As long as he has the bolt in for securing the power unit to the cross frame AND has the center plate on, he'll be fine; that's how you used to work on them. It doesn't need the tub for security. It's important, however, to have that bolt securing the power unit to the cross frame, however.

Larry ... Oh my ... not sure how that will work but you're the expert now!! Didn't the Maytag version of the hose has a brass/metal piece that went into the hose and then the hose cap was placed on? I have a couple of the hoses with the rubber cement; one of them came completely off (while I had water in the tub ... glad I was right there). BE SURE.

 

[e2l-arry]

Geoff

Maybe the original Maytag hoses were like that. I can't say as I threw mine away. I bought this off EBay, might have been from Phil. But this "aftermarket" hose looks to me to be nothing more that the standard, black, washer drain hose, cut to a certain length, with the cap glued on the end. So what I have now is just a length of black hose, no inserts, nothing else. I already did a practice run to see if I could connect it to the pump and the goose neck. Success!

Before I install the tub I just want to plug it in for a minute to make sure I don't have a problem that would make me have to remove the tub later. Make sure the agitator shaft moves when activated. Make sure I have the clutch pinion installed correctly and nothing weird going on with the horizontal or vertical drives. No uncouth farting noises! Not likely but just want to be 100% sure before the tub goes back in.

I do expect I'll be done later this afternoon. I'll keep you posted!

Larry

 

[geoffdelp]

Larry

Absolutely! Plug it in and make sure everything works; that's the way to do it!! You'll also hear how quiet it is without the aluminum tub to make an echo.

Can't wait ... I'll check back later this weekend. Good luck but I'm sure you've got it!!

 

[e2l-arry]

Almost Done!

But I'm having a problem with the pump hook up. There's a shaft that connects to the on/off lever. But where does it connect to the pump? There's just this hook like bend on the other end but I don't see where it goes?

 

[stan]

The hook

end go's threw a pre made hold on the pump U side down.
The rest of the linkage where it connects to the lever, is a little tricky to get it to have the right amount of tension with the spring, and so forth.
The two bolts that hold the end of that to the lever, are the tricky spot. Depending on how deep the first one is threaded, will determine the distance the fly wheel travels on the pump before engagement takes place.

You'll see! And after a adjustment, you'll get it!

 

[e2l-arry]

This?

Is this it? Because that end of the shaft is too big for the hole in the pump. Won't fit through it.

 

[stan]

Sure looks like it to me!

it's the only hole you have to work with! Somehow thats got to fit! So if installing from the top... the hook end would point up towards you. PUT SOME LUB ON IT!

 

[e2l-arry]

I figured it out!

No where does it show you but you take the threaded end and route it through the hole first. Then you navigate the threaded end to the lever and make your adjustments. I had it backward. I started by connecting the rod to the lever first. Then trying to line up the hooked end into the pump hole and of course, it can't be done that way. But it's hooked up now!

Now I just have to put the tub back in and I should be ready to wash!

Thanks for the help Stan!