MOVING A MAYTAG E2L

[mickeyd]

Looks like a Maytag Conventional parts manual~ Wonderful !!!

So when can we start sending you our E2L's for restoration?

 

Larry, you'll be so, so happy with the pump. Mr Haney says: " I guar unnn TEEEE"

 

[wringer]

Larry,

Did you get the PU that I alerted you to on ebay or was there another one available there? Glad you got it at that price. Looks like a factory parts department with a shipment ready for production !!!!!

Looking good !!

Jim

 

[e2l-arry]

Yea Jim

I did go ahead and bid. I wouldn't go over the $35.00 but it didn't matter. I got it for 35. I want to check it out and if it's better than mine I'll swap them out. And if mine is in better shape, I have a spare either way. Mine did make some weird clunking sounds and other than 1 piece of loose metal I never found what the root cause was. It could have been that 1 piece but I don't know for sure. A little insurance after all my set backs sounded like a good idea.

 

[wringer]

Yep,

I agree on spares. Glad you got it at the right price also. It will be interesting to hear what shape it is in when you get it. You can really be proud and when you begin to use her and hear her hum you will really be proud.

Jim

 

[e2l-arry]

Spares!

Jim! You're the spares champ. Not a few extra parts laying around, but a few extra machines in perfect order. Now that's what I call a spare! Did you notice the M A Y T A G letters on the front? On that section I used Vaseline over the letters then sprayed that part as it would be too hard to paint between with a brush or roller, then just wiped it off after the paint dried. Works every time.

 

[geoffdelp]

Larry ... it sure looks like you are ready to GO! Looks wonderful; let her rip!!

Did you find the right lubrication for the wringer post?

Just put gasket cement on only side of the gasket; no need to do both. You want it to adhere well to one of the parts and still be able to move the part around. If you seal both sides; you won't be able to separate the parts without destroying the gasket.

 

[e2l-arry]

OK

The gasket cement on only 1 side makes sense. I should have thought of that myself! The wringer lubricant/grease I think I got. Phil just said synthetic grease. That stuff I got from Amazon was 3 ounces for $11.95. Then I saw a 1 lb. container of the same stuff at ACE yesterday for $10.00. Sometime ya win, sometime ya loose. So anyway, I think that's what I'm going to use. So Geoff, let me see if I got this right because I can't really make head nor tail out of the vertical drive. You say to pack about 4 oz. in the lower part of the vertical? That would be where the 2 gears, 1 from the vertical the other from the horizontal, meet? Easy enough. But do I pack anything in the rest of the vertical? I removed the insert for the wringer post at the top. But that wouldn't come completely out because of the shaft and the gear attached. It didn't look to me like I should pack any grease in there anyway as that appears to just hold the shaft in the proper orientation to line up with the wringer head. Lower down the opening narrows to an opening just the size of the shaft. So would I pack any grease around there or just grease up the shaft best I can and with the 4oz. packed in the bottom, everything's fine? The Service Manual just shows how it comes apart but doesn't really say to put how much grease where? It looks to me like that should do the trick. Maybe pack some around the top where the wringer head would push it downwards. I don't want too much that will be oozing out in a month though. I want this baby to be clean for a long time.

I did see an EBay ad today for a Maytag, I think it was a J2L today where the description said something like "Runs Good! A little grease leaking underneath but they ALL do that" And I'm thinking, well maybe they ALL used to, but, . . . . . . I'm looking at 1 that doesn't . . .anymore . . . if there's a God in heaven!

 

[qsd-dan]

Synth Grease

A problem I have had using high quality synthetic greases is that it doesn't stick very well to gears. I learned this early on when re-packing gear boxes in antique fans. It does work well in roller and sleeve type bearings, not so great in gears, especially those exposed to high heat (grease can sometimes turn into a liquid) or just plain exposed to the elements. My 2 Cents.

This is what I use to repack gears and have had great success in using it. Not sure if it's the best application for wringer washers (perhaps Geoff can chime in), but it's something to keep in mind.

http://www.lucasoil.com/products/display_products.sd?catid=14&iid=46&loc=show

 

[geoffdelp]

Hi guys ... I'd be careful with the "sticky" grease; that has white Lithium in it. Lithium grease is fine to use with parts that could have contact to water (wringer roll bearing hangers, spring loaded tension reset, etc.) but can be too sticky when used in sealed gears. It's better to stick with a lubrication that is more "oily" in nature.

The wringer post (or vertical drive) gets the lubrication packed into the bottom; where you cleaned it out. It self lubricates up the shaft; no need to put lubrication down the shaft. Don't clean it out, either, Larry. Just put the insert back on.

The right angle drive (or horizontal drive) works the same way. It's fed through the power unit and only slightly. If it's pouring in there and pouring out the breather hole, you've got a problem ... you already know about that!!

As far as quantity goes, I was always taught a half jar (half of a pound) of the Maytag grease. We all know that 8 ounces is half a pound but that sure seems like a lot! Start with 4-6 ounces and don't overfill it. Use your best guess; the gears need to be fully lubricated at all times. You'll be able to tell.

You could also lubricate the bottom of the wringer head post that slides into the insert with the same grease as you do the wringer (vertical) drive. You should be doing that once a month. Some women used to put Crisco on there; what a sticky, smelly mess that was to fix those machines; GROSS. Don't use Crisco; save it for pie crusts!!

 

[e2l-arry]

It's really is simple,

to replace those dated 2 prong power cords with the 3 prong grounded ones. I did this a few weeks ago but wanted to post some pictures before I put it back in the machine. I though my cord was just fine but when I removed to cover on the motor it was a MESS. So for $6.95 at ACE Hardware I bought a new 6' black grounded cord. If your motor doesn't have a nut connection for the green ground wire, just screw it onto one of the cover screw connections. Then if your outlet is grounded, so is your motor/washer. It's just smart considering the age of some cords and the fact that you can't use these machines without coming in contact with water.

 

[e2l-arry]

And after you replace

the cover, it's unnoticeable! I was surprised to see mine has a Westinghouse motor. I'd only heard about GE and Delco motors in these Maytags.

And now, back into the washer it goes!

 

[e2l-arry]

RE-ASSEMBLY

Started this afternoon. The leg extensions and casters went back on first. Really easy when you can position the washer in any position without worry of an oil spill! Then I re-attached the horizontal and vertical drive. I added about 4 oz. of grease. That looked to be just about the right amount for the space available. Then you re-attach it in the machine, the same way the Service Manual suggests to remove it. And it DID!

The E Bay power unit is at a UPS facility about 20 miles from here so I expect that tomorrow. And the stuff from Dave, pump hardware, 8' drain hose and tub will be here by Friday! I think the hose is just a hose so check out the cool goose neck that I found at the Hardware store at lunch today. It fits the current drain just right! I'll just attach to the hose with a clamp.

 

[e2l-arry]

One more

picture of the washer in re-assembly mode. I know it's too soon to put the wringer back on but I wanted to make sure everything would fit correctly after the both drives were re-worked. And it DID!

 

[mickeyd]

Close enough to win the cigar

In fact, the goose you have is nicer and longer than the original.

 

[e2l-arry]

AND!

It's 100% Guar-uuu-teed and gen-U-wine imitation 110% imported from Mexico from Haney International Enterprises Inc! And as I always said, better to have a goose neck that a turkey neck.

 

[stan]

Larry

That looks like the same goose neck I got for mine at a local appliance store. From what I can see you've done the same as I did and used the old style hose clamp.

Not sure I understand the new electric cord? I can see the two wires from the cord (one green) but don't see the third? Am I having a blonde moment?

The 4 ounce of grease...what kind of grease did you decide to use use in the "space available"

Had mine over on it front today checking things out ( preparing my thoughts for replacing the seals) and noticed that the bolt that holds the power unit in place, is not tightened down firmly to the frame.
When I did tighten it down snug, and turned the machine on, it didn't sound right! Had to loosen it back to where it was, while it was running, to get her quiet again.

Just a observation I thought I'd pass on in case you find the same.

 

[stan]

Oh I see

what you mean (new cord) I was looking at the wrong pic !

 

[e2l-arry]

That bolt on the P.U.

Isn't supposed to be tightened all the way. There's a lock nut you use for raising or lowering the unit. It's supposed to keep it level with the drive. I think one of the manuals said something like a 1/4" gap. Might have been 1/2" I'll have to check. But that's why she made noise when you tightened it down. Messed up the rt' angle drive alignment.

 

[wringer]

Gosh,

I wonder how many members are like me and wait daily for a progress report. She sure is lookin good !!!!! Can't wait to see her all done and doing laundry !! I know you can't either LOL. Great going Larry !!!

Jim

 

[geoffdelp]

Larry ... you're learning; good job! Yes ... the bolt that keeps the power unit tightened to the frame is a tricky little devil but oh so necessary. You will see when you get the tub back in place. That bolt will help bring the power unit closer to the tub and then when you fasten the tub to the power unit, you will make a water-tight fit. You can then use the other nut to lock the bolt into place.

4 ounces of grease worked well? Good to know!!

Like the gooseneck; the water will really come out of that hose.