e2l-arry
Well-known member
OK
Got the horizontal drive painted. And got the lower part of the vertical 100% Bosco Free!
Got the horizontal drive painted. And got the lower part of the vertical 100% Bosco Free!
MOVING A MAYTAG E2L
- Thread starter e2l-arry
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e2l-arry
Well-known member
PAINTED THE INSIDE
Of the skirt last night. Could use a second coat maybe but guess what? AIN'T gonna happen! It's the INSIDE for cryin' out load! Where over 1/2 is covered with the tub. Still as good or better that the day it came off the line.
Of the skirt last night. Could use a second coat maybe but guess what? AIN'T gonna happen! It's the INSIDE for cryin' out load! Where over 1/2 is covered with the tub. Still as good or better that the day it came off the line.
e2l-arry
Well-known member
Here's a close up
of the vertical wringer shaft. It was pretty thick with the Bosco. I used engine cleaner and de-greaser from Auto Zone. Sprayed some in and let it soak for a bit. Then, I put in some fresh and got the nook and crannies with a toothbrush. Here's a hint. If you use your toothbrush be sure you open a fresh one for you to use in the morning. Otherwise you'll be wondering, "What IS that weird taste in my mouth?" All day!
of the vertical wringer shaft. It was pretty thick with the Bosco. I used engine cleaner and de-greaser from Auto Zone. Sprayed some in and let it soak for a bit. Then, I put in some fresh and got the nook and crannies with a toothbrush. Here's a hint. If you use your toothbrush be sure you open a fresh one for you to use in the morning. Otherwise you'll be wondering, "What IS that weird taste in my mouth?" All day!
Yah
thats what I"m talking about!
She's going to be a pretty girl! again
This thread is going to be so helpful to anyone who decides to do a overhall on a Maytag conventional !
thats what I"m talking about!
She's going to be a pretty girl! again
This thread is going to be so helpful to anyone who decides to do a overhall on a Maytag conventional !
e2l-arry
Well-known member
AND!
I think this is where I'm supposed to add 3 oz of the 90 wt. before I close it up. And it stays there and doesn't intermix with the thicker grease of the upstairs neighbor. And to me that makes sense because that area, when I opened it up, had the same power unit Bosco as opposed to a thicker grease. So, unless Geoff or someone else tells me otherwise, that's the plan.
I think this is where I'm supposed to add 3 oz of the 90 wt. before I close it up. And it stays there and doesn't intermix with the thicker grease of the upstairs neighbor. And to me that makes sense because that area, when I opened it up, had the same power unit Bosco as opposed to a thicker grease. So, unless Geoff or someone else tells me otherwise, that's the plan.
geoffdelp
Well-known member
Hi Larry ... B-E-A-U-T-I-F-U-L!! Nicely done. That wringer post looks brand new. The right angle drive looks brand new, too! You're right; don't think you have to make the inside of the machine look like the outside ... Maytag didn't.
Maytag really did use a thicker grease to pack that wringer post. It was part number 056078 - Wringer Head Lube. I just wonder if your local Maytag dealer "might" have a jar left. It came in a plastic jar; not a bottle; that's how thick it was ... you spooned it out of the jar. The reason why you had Bosco in the wringer post was because the wringer head lube broke down over time and probably was exposed to moisture.
When I put the wringer head lube in the wringer post, I do it first and then I put the gasket on after cleaning the area where the gasket goes with lacquer thinner or parts cleaner to make it absolutely grease free. Then I attach the right angle drive and secure the bolts and then put the post and right angle drive back on the machine and secure to skirt but leave the bolts a little loose where it secures to the skirt. That will help you manipulate it while installing the power unit. The right angle drive will maneuver its way through the hole for the post. Having the wringer post and right angle drive on the machine before you place the power unit back on is easier. The power unit will have to be matched with the right angle drive before you secure it.
Also, before you put the right angle drive back on, put some lubrication on the shaft; it will give it some protection.
Those really are amazing machines and were so well AMERICAN built!!
You're doing a fantastic job and THANK YOU SO MUCH for documenting all of this with photos. I've always wanted to do that but haven't had the chance.
Maytag really did use a thicker grease to pack that wringer post. It was part number 056078 - Wringer Head Lube. I just wonder if your local Maytag dealer "might" have a jar left. It came in a plastic jar; not a bottle; that's how thick it was ... you spooned it out of the jar. The reason why you had Bosco in the wringer post was because the wringer head lube broke down over time and probably was exposed to moisture.
When I put the wringer head lube in the wringer post, I do it first and then I put the gasket on after cleaning the area where the gasket goes with lacquer thinner or parts cleaner to make it absolutely grease free. Then I attach the right angle drive and secure the bolts and then put the post and right angle drive back on the machine and secure to skirt but leave the bolts a little loose where it secures to the skirt. That will help you manipulate it while installing the power unit. The right angle drive will maneuver its way through the hole for the post. Having the wringer post and right angle drive on the machine before you place the power unit back on is easier. The power unit will have to be matched with the right angle drive before you secure it.
Also, before you put the right angle drive back on, put some lubrication on the shaft; it will give it some protection.
Those really are amazing machines and were so well AMERICAN built!!
You're doing a fantastic job and THANK YOU SO MUCH for documenting all of this with photos. I've always wanted to do that but haven't had the chance.
What
a pleasurable thread to read with my morning coffee Larry. I agree with Geoff about the job you have done and are doing. You will be soooooooooo proud when she purrs as you use her. Glad you got the tub situation all straightenend out. Thanks from me also for doing such a great job of keeping us up on your progress with before and after pics. This thread should never go away. Looking forward to run day as I know you are too !!
Jim
a pleasurable thread to read with my morning coffee Larry. I agree with Geoff about the job you have done and are doing. You will be soooooooooo proud when she purrs as you use her. Glad you got the tub situation all straightenend out. Thanks from me also for doing such a great job of keeping us up on your progress with before and after pics. This thread should never go away. Looking forward to run day as I know you are too !!
Jim
e2l-arry
Well-known member
Here's my picture for the day,
All my refurbished parts resting comfortably.
I received my Amazon shipments today. One good, one not so good. The first was the transmission fluid. It says right on the container HEAVY DUTY TRANSMISSION LUBRICANT. For E J N Transmissions use 12 FL. OZ. The container has 32 FL. OZ. so a lifetime supply!
The synthetic grease is another story. The Amazon description clearly says 3 pounds. What I got was 3 ounces! They even crossed out "pounds" on the packing list and wrote in "ounces" the Oafs! Well! I got on line with the good folks at Amazon and that one's going back. So off to the Auto Parts store tomorrow to scope out some grease!
I have a gasket question. When installing new gaskets, do you just use the new gaskets of any additional sealant like "FORM A GASKET"? I thought I saw one on line thing where they said to use gasket cement? I've never done that on cars but you never know. How do the washer pros do it?
All my refurbished parts resting comfortably.
I received my Amazon shipments today. One good, one not so good. The first was the transmission fluid. It says right on the container HEAVY DUTY TRANSMISSION LUBRICANT. For E J N Transmissions use 12 FL. OZ. The container has 32 FL. OZ. so a lifetime supply!
The synthetic grease is another story. The Amazon description clearly says 3 pounds. What I got was 3 ounces! They even crossed out "pounds" on the packing list and wrote in "ounces" the Oafs! Well! I got on line with the good folks at Amazon and that one's going back. So off to the Auto Parts store tomorrow to scope out some grease!
I have a gasket question. When installing new gaskets, do you just use the new gaskets of any additional sealant like "FORM A GASKET"? I thought I saw one on line thing where they said to use gasket cement? I've never done that on cars but you never know. How do the washer pros do it?
Good question!
Lets see what Geoff says, or maybe Phil.
Speaking of a gasket, reminds me ... the tub nuts... did you order new, or are you reusing the gulmite bolts, with new rubber washers?
Lets see what Geoff says, or maybe Phil.
Speaking of a gasket, reminds me ... the tub nuts... did you order new, or are you reusing the gulmite bolts, with new rubber washers?
geoffdelp
Well-known member
Nice job! Well ... I use gasket cement to secure the gasket to the part. It's like rubber cement.
Also, what is that gasket on the top of the center plate, Larry? Where did you get that one? Did you get the black rubber gasket that goes in the groove of the center plate? That should be the only gasket you use on the center plate and it doesn't get glued in; it just lays in the groove.
Also, what is that gasket on the top of the center plate, Larry? Where did you get that one? Did you get the black rubber gasket that goes in the groove of the center plate? That should be the only gasket you use on the center plate and it doesn't get glued in; it just lays in the groove.
e2l-arry
Well-known member
OH! I almost forgot!
Checking out all my gaskets today. The big cork one. There was NO evidence of any cork gasket or even remnants of one when I removed that tub last week. There WAS however, evidence of a LOT of cork gasket material under the agitator when I got that off on day 2. More evidence of just how messed up this washer was when I got it.
On the upside, you couldn't ASK for a better machine to learn on.
Checking out all my gaskets today. The big cork one. There was NO evidence of any cork gasket or even remnants of one when I removed that tub last week. There WAS however, evidence of a LOT of cork gasket material under the agitator when I got that off on day 2. More evidence of just how messed up this washer was when I got it.
On the upside, you couldn't ASK for a better machine to learn on.
e2l-arry
Well-known member
I thought I needed the cork one too
But then wondered. On the parts list they have "old" and "new" Is "old" the cork and the "new" the rubber seal? I bought both! If I only need 1, I'll only use 1. That would explain why I didn't find evidence of one. It wouldn't explain the cork I found under the muck under the agitator. Like pins, razor blades, bits of cork???
But then wondered. On the parts list they have "old" and "new" Is "old" the cork and the "new" the rubber seal? I bought both! If I only need 1, I'll only use 1. That would explain why I didn't find evidence of one. It wouldn't explain the cork I found under the muck under the agitator. Like pins, razor blades, bits of cork???
When
I was in your position I ask the Amish about the seals. They told me that the old cast tubs took the cork and the new spun tubs took the o ring type. I have no idea why there would have been a cork one used anywhere. But, like Geoff says, who knows what someone did to this poor beauty. I don't think you need a cork gasket at all but I am not certain. Good Luck !!!
Jim
I was in your position I ask the Amish about the seals. They told me that the old cast tubs took the cork and the new spun tubs took the o ring type. I have no idea why there would have been a cork one used anywhere. But, like Geoff says, who knows what someone did to this poor beauty. I don't think you need a cork gasket at all but I am not certain. Good Luck !!!
Jim
e2l-arry
Well-known member
Never fear!
I do have the big O-ring gasket too. I can see how the cork one would work though.
Stan! The bolts, I did order a new set from Phil. They appear to be a standard size 1/2" bolt you'd be able to get at any Hardware Store. What's different on these though is what appears to be the washer. They seem to be attached to the bolt. I got "the set of 6", 2 long and 4 short, that fasten the tub but that doesn't include the 2 used in the center of the plate. So for those I may look at ACE and see if they have any that look like these. Or, pick out the best 2 washers from the gulmite set and re-use then. Better yet, re-use them on part of the tub not connected to the power unit and use 2 of my new one for those. That way if I have a faulty seal it's just a leak. Where as if one of the washers over the Power Unit leak I get water in the transmission.
Been there!, Done that!
I do have the big O-ring gasket too. I can see how the cork one would work though.
Stan! The bolts, I did order a new set from Phil. They appear to be a standard size 1/2" bolt you'd be able to get at any Hardware Store. What's different on these though is what appears to be the washer. They seem to be attached to the bolt. I got "the set of 6", 2 long and 4 short, that fasten the tub but that doesn't include the 2 used in the center of the plate. So for those I may look at ACE and see if they have any that look like these. Or, pick out the best 2 washers from the gulmite set and re-use then. Better yet, re-use them on part of the tub not connected to the power unit and use 2 of my new one for those. That way if I have a faulty seal it's just a leak. Where as if one of the washers over the Power Unit leak I get water in the transmission.
Been there!, Done that!
Smart move
Larry. we don't want any leaks anywhere, anytime. LOL
We'l being waiting to see what happens next when you get the tub!
Larry. we don't want any leaks anywhere, anytime. LOL
We'l being waiting to see what happens next when you get the tub!
geoffdelp
Well-known member
Larry ... Stan is correct; the cork gasket on the center plate was used on the cast aluminum tubs AND on the previous models ... the A, 30, etc. When Maytag created the spun aluminum tub they created the "O" ring type gasket; don't use both ... you won't get the right fit. Your machine will take the "O" ring type gasket.
e2l-arry
Well-known member
O ring
it is. I guess I'll just hang on to the cork one in case anyone ever needs one. Hopefully my new tub will ship the week. There's not much else I can do at this point until it shows up. I did do some paint touch up and buffing with the Fine Cut this weekend. Everything looks real nice! Just waiting to all go back together.
So Geoff, when you use the gasket cement, do you just use it it spots to tack the gasket on or do you cover the entire gasket with it? If covered do you cover 1 side or both? I bought some today at Ace. Not sure it's the right stuff so it'll depend on how it's used.
it is. I guess I'll just hang on to the cork one in case anyone ever needs one. Hopefully my new tub will ship the week. There's not much else I can do at this point until it shows up. I did do some paint touch up and buffing with the Fine Cut this weekend. Everything looks real nice! Just waiting to all go back together.
So Geoff, when you use the gasket cement, do you just use it it spots to tack the gasket on or do you cover the entire gasket with it? If covered do you cover 1 side or both? I bought some today at Ace. Not sure it's the right stuff so it'll depend on how it's used.
e2l-arry
Well-known member
DIS-ASSEMBLED
E2LP - I wanted 1 picture before I start re-assembling the washer. The replacement tub and pump hardware will ship tomorrow. The tub is the picture is the old one, just a prop. There was a time a few weeks ago I even had the wringer cap completely taken apart. But I wasn't going to do that again just to get a picture! The only thing left is to sand, clean and paint the power unit. But I'm waiting for my EBay $35.00 spare to arrive first. Then I'll evaluate them against each other and decide which one I should use. The winner gets a paint job! I even have all the old hardware on top of the speaker. I used to be notorious for loosing small parts like hardware so I was very careful this time.
E2LP - I wanted 1 picture before I start re-assembling the washer. The replacement tub and pump hardware will ship tomorrow. The tub is the picture is the old one, just a prop. There was a time a few weeks ago I even had the wringer cap completely taken apart. But I wasn't going to do that again just to get a picture! The only thing left is to sand, clean and paint the power unit. But I'm waiting for my EBay $35.00 spare to arrive first. Then I'll evaluate them against each other and decide which one I should use. The winner gets a paint job! I even have all the old hardware on top of the speaker. I used to be notorious for loosing small parts like hardware so I was very careful this time.
mickeyd
Well-known member
Looks like a Maytag Conventional parts manual~ Wonderful !!!
So when can we start sending you our E2L's for restoration?
Larry, you'll be so, so happy with the pump. Mr Haney says: " I guar unnn TEEEE"
So when can we start sending you our E2L's for restoration?
Larry, you'll be so, so happy with the pump. Mr Haney says: " I guar unnn TEEEE"
