MOVING A MAYTAG E2L

[e2l-arry]

Here's the center plate

before the plug is inserted. This is what becomes the plug. You pull it through and get it as tight as you can. Then trim off the ends with a razor blade. The gasket, O-ring is in the picture but not inserted.

 

[e2l-arry]

Here's

After the plug operation is completed. The gasket is inserted where it goes for the tub installation.

 

[geoffdelp]

Oh boy ... nicely done, Larry! That tub is beautiful!! I use Brillo pads with "oxygen cleaner" in them; they work well, too.

That plug material really makes a tight seal, doesn't it?

 

[e2l-arry]

And finally!

I did a mock up of the tub going over the center plate. This is how I have to make sure it's positioned before I tighten things down after installation back into the machine. There's a lip on the plate that edges up to the tub. Directly under the edge of the tub is the O-Ring/gasket that makes the water seal. The trick will be having the power unit/center plate adjusted just right. I think that, and the leak from the now gone screw socket are what messed me up last Saturday.

 

[stan]

Beautiful

looks like a labor of love to me!

Sounds like your feeling a lot better about this second go around, and have things well thought through!

Thanks for the detailed pics

 

[stan]

Just happened to

think! (after looking at the pics)

Did we ever determine what the little screw ( now plug) was intended for by the manufacture?
Dose it have a purpose? is there a receiving hole on the power unit for it?
Was it intended to be a possible way of adding lube to the power unit, just by removing the screw, adding lube, and then replacing the screw?

Talk among yourselves LOL

 

[wringer]

WOWWWWWWWWWWW

How would you like to trade tubs with me? You did a beautiful job on polishing the tub!!!!! I had mine looking like that when I first got it but made the mistake of using Tide with bleach powder in it the first wash and the oxygen bleach tarnished it pretty badly. Now I use just Tide powder and need to get busy and use Brillo pads and Mothers again. I am sure I am speaking for all of when I say we can't wait for its completion and your using her. GREAT JOB LARRY ALL THE WAY ROUND !!!

Jim

 

[mickeyd]

Talk about washer art.......

You could almost shave in that shine.

 

On another topic, make sure you give the hose an upward pull when engaging the pump to get everything kosher.

 

[e2l-arry]

As for the pump . . .

Mike, what do you mean about the upward pull? Last week when washing the pump didn't work. I assumed it needed more adjustment. But when I was taking things apart, I'd flip the pump lever to ON and the pump roller was engaged and rotating against the pulley rim. So I thought maybe that was because there was no water in it and the day before when there was water, it causes resistance on the pump and again, thought I needed an adjustment for tighter contact? So if you have any pump tricks, I'd sure like to learn them!

I'm hoping to have this up and running in the next week. It would be so great if everything works and nothing leaked!!

Larry

 

[mickeyd]

HI Larry,

The original hose is thick, stiff, and hard. To get it off the holding couple, the operating instructions say to grasp the hose with both hands and pull upward to release the hose from its post. That always stuck in my head: all those rituals to begin the drain sequence. I often wondered if the upward pull had anything to do with aligning the parts below. Maybe so, maybe not.

 

Then one rosy washday afternoon, I engaged the pump, but nothing happened. So I gave a yank on the longer, more pliable replacement hose, and thar' she blows.....

 

Thereafter, she always blew just fine. Just a fluke perhaps, and I do whatever works, especially if it's easy. It's worth a try, and please believe Larry, that's I have nowhere near the skill of many here, so don't expect mechanical miralces from me. "Ah gar un teeeeee." ; 'D

 

[geoffdelp]

Larry ... Mickey is right about the instructions ... here they are and I quote right from the instruction manual:

"To lower the drain hose on non-pump models, place your left hand on the lower third of the hose, move the hose to the left and push in. With your right hand, lift the nozzle of the hose out of the bracket.

On pump models, push the lower portion of the hose in toward the tub with your left hand while lifting the nozzle of the hose out of the bracket with the right hand. Hook curved end into sink, tub, or drainpipe and move pump control lever (located at the lower edge of the cabinet) to "ON". Washer must be plugged in to operate pump. If water flow stops with pump "ON" before the tub is emptied, move the pump lever off and on once or twice until the flow is resumed."

With that being said, what I would suggest, Larry, is that you make sure the pump is aligned and connects with the flywheel while the hose is in the bracket; not laying down. When you lay the hose down on the floor, it loosens its connection with the flywheel. It's better to adjust the pump while the hose in hooked in the bracket.

Make sense?

 

[e2l-arry]

No,

But I'll try it!

When I thought I had a gravity drain, I did find the instructions made sense. By pushing in on the hose it took pressure/resistance off the top of the hose making it easy to get out of the hook. If you didn't follow the directions, you had to wrestle the hose off it's post. I now have longer hose and didn't have to follow those directives to get the hook over the sink. Next time I'll try it the book way.

I really couldn't figure what could be wrong with the pump anyway. It's 100% mechanical. If the pump wheel is turning, the pump must be working.

That's the beauty of these. No circuit cards, no solenoid valves, no timers, just 1 electric motor that runs the works.

 

[geoffdelp]

True, Larry. But I have to wonder if you have "too much" hose creating too much slack on the pump. The original hoses were installed flush to the side of the washer cabinet and had some resistance while in the hanger; it would stay put.

Something to mull over ...

 

[stan]

Humm

I don't think I get it either!
However
I've already done, what Larry's done, I made my own hose, and goose neck, I leave mine hooked to the sink. The only time I unhook it from the sink is when I'm finished with all the wash, and I'm draining the left over into a bucket!
I don't push or pull on anything, just move the lever to ON or OFF. No problem. Pump dose what I want, when ON... empties the tub right quick! LOL

 

[e2l-arry]

We'll see soon enough

Once I get it back together and do the water test as described by Geoff, that'll also give me a chance to try out the pump. I'm sure the last time I adjusted it I had it laying on the floor, out of the way. Next time I'll have it in the "parked" position. This still has the rigid black washer drain hose on it. It's just a little longer because I converted the gravity drain hose that I bought earlier. I'm thinking of cutting it down to fit normally on the hook on the tub. Mine sits right in from of the laundry tub when I use it so I don't need the additional foot or whatever it is. But looking at the set up, I can see where giving it a tag could be just the thing to get a good connection between the pump wheel and the drive pulley. Couldn't hurt! Unless I pull the hose off and dump 18 gallons of wash water on the floor. With my luck . . . . I'll make SURE that clamp it tight! HA!

I got an email from the guy that sold me the EBay transmission this morning. He said he mailed me a new drive pinion seal. I'm not sure what that is?? It had the oil drip from the pulley shaft. I took that apart and cleaned it out and thought the seal looked good. So I think I'll wait until that shows up before I put it, the power unit, back in the machine. That'll give me a weekend off! If it's a spankin' NEW seal I'll put it on. If it's something else, I'll just proceed.

 

[e2l-arry]

I started the re-re-assembly tonight.

That drive pulley seal from the EBay guy was in today's mail. It didn't look much different from the one I took out and cleaned last week but the new one was a tiny bit thicker. So I went ahead and changed them out. That extra thickness was just enough to make a real project out getting the snap ring back on. Last week that was the hardest part but I only spent about 5 minutes on it. Today's was about 45 minutes getting that sucker back on but I finally got it!

Next part was putting the power unit back in the machine. Another new oil fill and the new gaskets then re-attached the center plate and tightening down the 2 bolts. Very careful not to over or under tighten this time and I think I got it right. I did play around with the raising and lowering of the unit using the adjustment bolt from below. Seems to work fine but I set it at the recommended 1/4". When the tub goes in if I need to adjust up OR down, I will.

Here's a trick I learned when I went to remove the pulley and used it again tonight to tighten the pulley bolt onto the shaft. That locking bolt has a funky square bolt. I couldn't find anything that would fit to remove it. So I took a socket extension. The side that attaches to the ratchet is square also and fit that bolt. So I use the socket extension then tighten or loosed by using a pair of vice grips on the other end. Works like a charm!

Then I got the belt on the motor and pulley and took it for a spin. Even though it's a conventional washer that doesn't spin. Ironic huh? The first test to pass was the agitator activation. It's back to pull for agitation and push to stop. Then I let it run for 30 minutes. Stopped and checked for any oil leaks. There were none. Let it rest and checked again. No leaks. Then let it run another 25 minutes. No leaks from the pulley shaft or anywhere else.

Tomorrow night's project is the re-installation of the pump. So much easier without the tub. I want to make sure I get it lined up so it makes contact and spins when the lever is set to "ON" and stops when moved to "OFF". Then if there's time, the tub!

Speaking of the tub, I noticed over the weekend that the bottom wasn't completely flat. One small area was dented/bowed slightly down. The could have also been a leak path. So I held it to the concrete floor and flattened it with a hammer. It's 100% flat now. I just didn't notice that before. Maybe I had done that by over tightening a bolt? Maybe I got it that way? I do remember it didn't seem to fit flatly on the center plate the first time so I may have discovered why.

So a couple of steps successfully completed, a couple of more to go!

 

[stan]

Hi Larry

so, at this point I see you have the right angle bolted to the P.U.

Do you have it slightly loose at the wringer post ? (to help with any adjustment later) Or is it all bolted together, and the adjustment will be with just the one bolt under the P.U?

 

[wringer]

G'morning Larry,

Coffee and information reading time. Sounds like you are right on track with what you have done so far. I for one am anxious to hear that she is all assembled and washing. I am now wondering how long this thread will be available in the club on line? I hope it will be forever for others to learn from as we have. A lot of information is held in this thread. I told Myron my Amish friend about the vaseline trick on the lettering on the front Larry and he tried it and KaBoom it worked. Looks much better than just the tops of the letters being shiny. Good luck as you continue.

Best !

Jim

 

[mickeyd]

"Anticipation" ~ the song.

She's tapping her foot waiting for the pump, and then it'll be all quiet on the western front, and you can move on. I really can't wait to see what machine you find for your next project. Hmmmmm, I wonder what it will be?

 

PS: The tug on the hose may be the secret move..... shhhhhh, but the flooding is funny, pulling too hard, indeed!

 

[e2l-arry]

Anticipation -

Now I won't get anything done Mike. I got that Carly Simon song stuck in my head with a real hankerin' for some Gen-U-Wine, Heinz Ketchup! MMmmmmmmmm Heinz. The slowest ketchup in the west!