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Very hard to get pics of the insides

they are so large i cans seem to get it all in the pic. but hears a try anyway Dryer

5-12-2009-10-28-56--sudsman.jpg
 
clean 09?

Hey Pulsator,

Could you take some pictures of the clean 09 and the milnor plant and post them? Please with sugar on top?
 
Dont know if this year will be any different

but in years past they do not allow cameras on the convention floor. I plan to attend to as in years past.
 
Wow Lee those pix are great, thanks! 100 sheets in the washer? That does not even look half full, wow!

I see the dryer has 4 (blades), how many does the washer have, 3 or 4?

Thanks again!
Kevin

P.S. Clean '09?? Is that a convention for comercial laundry / dry cleaning equipment? When is it and where?
 
"Clean"

Is the professional launderers, dry cleaners, etc and so forth mega CONVENTION! Lots of fun (so I've been told), and more important to those in the business a chance to see new products and equipment, while also attending classes/training in whatever is new and interesting.

For a laundry appliance buff, it can be a bit like a child let loose in a candy shop! *LOL* So many machines, so many choices, and one has so little space at home.

Usually all the domestic and international laundry equipment/suppliers are there, and yes chemcial suppliers as well (nice time to pick up samples and such of detergents and other professional laundry chemicals).
 
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Question for laundry managers

I've noticed that the tags on my white cotton towels (Martex brand) and bed linens suggest washing in "warm water & no bleach." Of course, that's just a "suggestion." What would your wash formula be for these types of items? Also, built or non-built detergents, pH levels, etc. I'm thinking more along the lines of a small, B&B type OPL with light soiling and not a hospital. Any and all input greatly appreciated.
 
all depends on a Great number of factors

Soil content one night use or 2 or 3 night only changed on check out. ect
The water temperature.
The type of washer used
The type of finishing done.Tumble dry or Flatwork ironed
The color content
The water hardness or if there is a softener
If color safe bleach is used or not.
Load size
Type of supplies to be used liquid or dry expensive or bargain rate
Are items to just be clean and acceptable or top quality
Turn around time needed for equiptment a factor or not
Is machine to be properly loaded or heavy loaded
Are the dryers gas, steam or electric all require different ph to keep yellowing to a min.
If flatwork ironer is used is it gas , steam , electric or thermal oil If gas is it natural gas or propane.
These are just a few factors that a good laundry manager must consider before every setting up a formula for any loads.
 
It is such a dumb question....

...that I have to ask: How does one learn how to become a good laundry manager? Is there a formal set of coursework or is it an apprentice-type program? Sounds almost like you need a degree in Chemistry to really get a handle on the formulas!
 
Wow, Sudsman, a lot of variables to consider...

Don’t know if this is enough information to go on, but see what you can come up with.

For this scenario, let’s assume we’re talking about 80% cotton bath towels, Martex brand, commercial grade, used 2 to 3 times between laundering.

Available water temp. 130-140 degrees.

18 lb. FL with 3 possible main wash times: 25, 21 or 13 mins. The main wash cycle can be manually repeated to add additional baths. 3 possible rinses, 2 mins. each, with the option of manually adding more.

Electric Tumbler. Current drying time on 6 full sets of bath linen is about 15 mins.

The color content is strictly white.

City water supply, not unusually hard, but no additional water softening.

Products available:
For this application, let’s assume dry bleach with 9% available chlorine.
Powdered detergent with a blend of alkalinity and detergency, intermediate quality ($32 for 50 lbs.) It’s not Ecolab. Moderate alkalinity; no heavy duty breaks. And a softener/neutralizer.

The machine will be operating with the normal recommended load. Gees, I don’t own enough linen to overload it.. LOL

Desired quality is bright white, fluffy, clean-smelling bath linen with a pH level that’s comfortable to the skin. Sterilization is not a necessity.

Turn-around time is not a factor.

No ironing. So the scorching issue is not a factor. They would come from the dryer, get folded and put on the shelf.

Not looking for an exact formula; just something to start with. Or, some guidelines for coming up with my own formula. I could always go to the supermarket and pick up a box of All-Temperature Cheer and some Snuggle, but then doing the laundry wouldn’t be any fun. Besides, this is all so much more interesting.
 
will try

First 32 .oo for a 50 lb box of commerical detergent is a very cheap detergent. Any main wash time more than 10 or 12 mins is a waste of time and money. And you carry a greater risk of graying. You are far better off with two shorter washes than one longer one.
the best that I can offer with out knowing much more

Pre Wash Warm 90 to 98 no hotter 6 min Hi level
Wash/Bleach Hot no hotter than 150 12 min lo level
Rinse Hot 2 mins Hi level
Rinse Warm 2 mins Hi level
Extract 1 min
Sour /Softner Warm or cold 5 min lo level
Final Extract 6 to 8 mins

Amount of detergent will vary greatly but a good starting point is 2 oz. for a commerical detergent..on such a small machine.
Bleach. no more than a teaspoon full would be more than ample.
softner and sour Depends on what type of sour you are using. but no more than 1/2 teaspoon would be needed in that size machine. If heavy alkali maybe 3/4 Dry Fab soft no more than 1/2 teaspoon if liquid 1/2 oz (one tablespoon is plenty.

There a lot of variables be careful. on the detergent use, use the full 2 oz on the prewash then 1 oz in with the bleach. If there is a lot of suds on the main wash dont use the one oz of detergent the next time. Just on the prewash. just use enough to give a good suds on the main wash but not more than enough that will rinse out in the 1st rinse.
 
thanks loads

Will start from there and see how it works. Much appreciate your taking time to read and respond... and so fast too.
 
Any main wash time more than 10 or 12 mins is a waste of tim

Surprised to read this, because extended wash cycle (approx. 1 hour just for wash) on my Miele gives great results. Could it be another difference between regular home-style detergents (Sears Ultra Plus powder in my case) and commercial systems? Like, home-style detergents contain anti-redeposition agents that commercial systems don't have or need?
 

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