My trusty 45-year-old Maytag A608 has a new leak!

[wendy]

My trusty 45-year-old Maytag A608 is giving me trouble again. (After 45 years, who can blame it?)

A few months ago, with super advice from Combo52 (thanks again, John!), I replaced a leaking drain pump. It's been purring ever since...until today, when the washer sprung another leak--from a different location.

I can't exactly tell where the water is coming from. I can feel underneath that water is seeping onto the floor from along the rear part of the left side (left as seen from the front of the machine). There's no moisture high up on the rear panel, at the valve where the hot and cold fill hoses attach. Nor does there seem to be a problem with either hose, or with the drain hose. I pulled the front and what I can see of the inside looks dry, but of course I can't see much behind the tub to say what's going on back there; that's as far as I've gone.

I can see some of the hose that runs from the valve on the upper back into the tub, with a big clamp or two that seem to have some corrosion. Maybe that's the problem, but I can't get to it to feel it, or even see enough around it tell if it's leaking. So my questions:

1. Is that hose--leading from the valve into the tub--likely causing the problem? If so, might it be repairable? Or replaceable? Is it worth what it'll take me to get to it? Do I have to remove the top and/or the entire back panel to get to where I have to get to?

2. If that doesn't make sense as the cause of the leak, where else should I look?

Thank you!

 

[wendy]

Update: I do in fact see a dripping coming from the area of the hose that leads from the mixing valve in back into the tub, around the part of the hose where there is a corroded clamp. The leak seems worse when I'm feeding warm rather than cold or hot, for whatever that may indicate.

How do I get inside to replace that hose and clamp, and whatever else is involved? Remove the back panel? The top? Or...?

Thanks.

 

[good-shepherd]

I can't see much behind the tub

Remove the two screws at the front corners and the top cover lifts up like a car hood.

Note: tape down the lid so it doesn't slam into the console.

 

[combo52]

A 608 Maytag washer leaking

Hi Wendy, you should remove the front panel and then raise the top panel of the machine by removing the two 3/8" inch screws then plug the machine back in and start it filling with water. You'll probably find the leak at the fill inlet air gap on the left side at the top above the water valve. There's a little rubber piece that fails inside this air gap that you can replace pretty easily. This is not a serious problem in all likelihood.

John

 

[wendy]

Absolutely correct, and I shouldn't have worried: two hex screws and the top lifts right up. Neat.

Photo attached shows the mess I found. Water is leaking from the midsection of the hose. I think that's the air gap behind all the crud. It also leaks a bit where the hose meets the top of the tub, which isn't very attractive either.

Can or should I replace everything from the top of the tub to the other end of the hose? Any idea what parts I need? I have what is called "Repair Parts List" for the model, dated 2005 on the cover page but each diagram is dated 1976. In any case, I can't figure out what's what.

 

[good-shepherd]

Ideally you need an injector kit similar to the one in the link but they are NLA or crazy expensive for that model.

Try to carefully salvage the tub injector hose if possible and replace the air valve and other hose.

Pardon Our Interruption...

 

[wendy]

Thanks for your feedback. I think the hose from the air valve to the tub, with its seal, isn't going to be salvageable. The other hose seems to be in better shape, although I think while I'm at it I should replace both as well as the air valve between them. I'll have to scout around to see what's available. Apparently the current "replacement" for the original kit is slightly different--in the way it mounts, I believe. I did find one offer of an old-style but it's used; I hesitate, because who can tell? Anyway, thanks again.

 

[good-shepherd]

kit is slightly different-

Those are for the later 12 series, it won't work on your washer.

Might want to ask if anyone has a used tub injector hose they are willing to part with.

 

[qsd-dan]

First thing I would do is update to the newer style sleeve injector. It's a better design.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1561176382...fDJ2eyeEoorN+OLcoOy4kRUw==|tkp:Bk9SR47OgfLoZA

Check the condition of your hoses, they'll most likley still be fine but the you'll probably need new clamps.

Now is the time to replace the injector sock.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2046896392...BaVIuYR2wwaDMJaj6zJVMCoA==|tkp:Bk9SR8rFn_LoZA

Clean and soak the plastic nozzle in vinegar or CLR. It MUST be free of all debris and hard water deposits to function correctly.

The injector hose can be found but getting stupid expensive. Aftermarket ones used to go for under $10 a few years back.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3159287221...nEYDOA8Aqj5oOuK1F9pSVnj1U=|tkp:Bk9SR8qo0vLoZA

 

[wendy]

Can you tell me just what parts of 206680 (which is widely available) won't work for my A608? I think I need the full assembly, meaning a kit with two hoses and the air gap and bracket, no? Isn't that what my photo above seems to show? I'm not even sure of the proper number on the old kit so I could look for one, new or used. Or should I be looking to find the parts one by one? Should I start a parts-wanted thread here? I'd have to know just what I'm asking for....

 

[wendy]

Ah. My reply #9 was intended for Good-Shepherd, #7. Now I see qsd-dan has posted #8. I think this will be very helpful, but I'm still confused about what all these parts are, really.

You link to a sleeve injector and an injector valve (sock?). Is that the plastic thing with rubber insert I think I see between the two hoses, fixed to the inside of the cabinet with a metal bracket and all covered in efflorescence and rust? But then why are you saying I should clean the plastic nozzle? Is that a different part? The photos of the injector hose you link to seems to show the U-shaped upper hose I see, with a seal at one end as it enters the tank. (The listing says open box, but the photos make it look used. Maybe I can't be so choosy.)

And is the newer style sleeve injector compatible with my model?

I'm pretty sure the existing upper hose and seal are not re-usable under all the crud. Is a lower hose that would fit my A608 available? And what about the bracket? Appropriate clamps I assume I can find anywhere.

Apologies for all these questions, showing my beginner-ness, but if I can't simply buy a full assembly I'm going to have to piece it all together. I accept that, but I have to understand what I'm looking for. This machine is really worth saving. Underneath it all, I love the simplicity!

 

[qsd-dan]

Everything will work except the hose that goes from the injector to the tub is different. That older style hose you have in my last link that cost $50 is the one that's needed. The 2-15234 hose in the picture Good-Shepherd posted is the newer twist lock design that began in 1984 and was used through 1993. Your style injector to tub hose began in 1966 and was used through 1983.

If you had easy/cheap access to a tub cover from 1984-1993, you could swap that into place and the entire injector setup would work on your 608. It's the long way around things but doable. I have done it in the past as it's a better design but will not work with TOL models from 1956-1975 that have a tub light.

 

[qsd-dan]

This video should explain most of your questions

 

[combo52]

Maytag leaking fill injector

All you need is the little rubber sock at Dan posted. It's a $16 part. You might need two new little hose clamps. The hoses are probably all fine.

We still do this repair a couple times a month. I never replaced anything but the little rubber insert.

John

 

[wendy]

qsd-dan: OK, so now I see there's plastic inside rubber inside plastic. It's the outer, visible plastic--sort of a cage holding the injector valve--that you're telling me to soak in vinegar. I can try that, but as you can see in my photo, it's probably so corroded I'll need to replace it. With what? What part number?

This excellent video shows how to replace the injector valve that you linked to, 216201. I take it that'll be OK for my washer. But will the whole thing fit the existing bracket, assuming that isn't also so corroded it can't be reused? Or do I need to find a new bracket?

I guess I'll be willing to spring for $50 for the hose from the injector to the tub if I think it'll do the job and I can't find it for less.

And what about the other hose, leading down from the other end of the injector? Is one available that's compatible? I'll try to look more closely but as with the rest of the works, I don't want to start disassembling things because I need to keep the machine working until I have the parts on site and am ready to go. I'm catching the leaking water inside the cabinet and emptying every so often.

Combo52: All right, you both seem confident that the rubber hoses have survived the years of very hard water, although the U-shaped injector tube especially looks awfully grungy at both ends. I'll try to inspect as best I can to avoid possibly having a week or more of down time if I have to order more parts after I get to replacing the injector valve.

And the bracket?

Incidentally, my A608 was bought (new) in 1979, for what that's worth. It owes me nothing, but I want to keep it chugging along.

 

[combo52]

Hi Wendy, this is a 15 to 30 minute repair. Just clean up the hoses replace the little rubber. Insert, you probably need two little hose clamps if the metal bracket is rusted just take a nylon tie and tie the injector assembly in place hard water is not particularly hard on rubber hoses not nearly as much as soft water in fact.

You're only likely to get a few more years out of this machine before the top transmission shaft sizes in the transmission, but let's keep it running as long as you can.

John

 

[wendy]

Clean up the hoses? With all that mess, especially at the tub and near both clamps? Well, I'll do my best.

So I should buy just this (or its equivalent):
https://www.ebay.com/itm/204689639298 216201 Injector Valve (this is rubber, with a plastic piece inside?)

You're saying I don't even need the other plastic piece?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/156117638204 22213057 Sleeve Injector

I should just clean out the plastic sleeve that holds them as well as both hoses (and I guess the top of the tub where the hose fits) and that should do it?

And if the bracket has a problem I can just tie the thing in place somehow?

Sounds good. I hope.

I replaced the drain pump a few years ago. Hope to get more years.

Thanks.

 

[qsd-dan]

You can get away with just the 216201 and clean up the plastic parts...and replace those hose clamps.

I upgrade all of my machines to the sleeve injector but I meticulously restore my collection and keep everything forever.

 

[good-shepherd]

I don't want to start disassembling things

You might have to find out for sure what parts you need or don't need.

At least have new clamps on hand so it can be patched back together.