New acquisition: 1969 GE FilterFlo Washer - Beginning the Dissassembly and Restoration

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dishwashercrazy

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 22, 2008
Messages
941
Location
West Peoria, IL
On May 6, 2011, I was searching the Chicago area Craigslist ads, and came across an ad for a Washer and Gas Dryer, posted April, 29, 2011. There was a single small photo of a GE Washer and Dryer. The ad stated that the units were older, and the picture confirmed that, but I wasn’t sure how old. I wrote to the seller asking for the Model/Serial Number of the Washer. The next day, he wrote back stating that according to the literature he still had, the Model was WA743E, but he copied the Model number down wrong as: 1WA 1WA 74 F2W. I also wrote the seller asking for close-up photos of the washer and dryer console, plus a shot inside the washer, and he complied. On May 8, I consulted with Ken (bajaespuma) since he and I had communicated in the past about GE laundry products. I thought these machines were from 1978, but Ken was able to pinpoint them as models produced in 1969 based on the model information the seller provided and the photos which I forwarded. Ken and I talked talked about these machines, but I really needed to see them for myself. The seller was available on Thursday, May 12, so I agreed to drive up to Aurora to have a look. So Thursday morning as planned, I made the 2 ½ drive to Aurora. I was very pleased, seeing no oil dripping and the machines in pretty good condition. We haggled, and I agreed to buy the pair for $140. Now I know that the Model is: 1WA743E2W and S/N is: RD125395 (August 1969).

With the Washer and Dryer still on my pickup truck, I started to do some preliminary clean-up work. Then On Sunday, May 15, I prepared to give the washer a full water test. I filled the washer nearly full with hot water and let it stand for 30 minutes or so. In the meantime, I started looking for problems. I did find a slow drip coming from about the 5 o’clock position. But I continued to run the test, which was very successful. The following video is an edited down version of what transpired over about an hour or so. The drip continued during the test, but did not change in volume. As I had been cleaning, I did see some rust in the bottom of the outer tube, so I concluded that the transmission boot was likely the source of the leak. Next step – search for the leak.

SO, I am starting this thread to document this Washer and Dryer, AND the Disassembly and Restoration of the Washer.

First some overall pictures taken before the clean-up process began, and then the Video will follow. AND the disassembly has been completed, with much of the cleanup complete, or in progress. Next, as I will discuss further down, I will begin the repair work to the outer tub.

Lastly, I would appreciate any advice you might have, as I progress through this restoration project.

Mike
(Oh boy, Dishwashercrazy working on a Washer!)

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Dissassembly Started



Well, my first problem was getting the Agitator off! It had not been removed in many years. I pulled and jerked, and pulled, and pulled some more. Nothing. I put two leather pants belts crisscrossed under the agitator, and pulled, but all I did was lift the washer up off of the bed of the truck. Worn out, needed rest.

I came back to it later that night, and I decided to get more aggressive with the agitator. I put one belt underneath the agitator, and I started pulling with hard jerks. After a few pulls, I noticed that I was developing a gap underneath, so that encouraged me to make about 3 more pulls, and off it came. I had bruises on my forearm for several days after that.

Underneath the agitator, I found this mess!

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Well, that Plastic Cap does not come off easily!

First, I took a feeler gage and went around the entire agitator shaft at the top (smallest diameter) portion of the plastic cap, to loosen all of the lime deposits that were bonding the cap to the shaft. I have sore and raw areas on both pointer fingers to show for that effort. Ah, but what next. A colleague had told me that there are two tabs that need to be pressed in order to get the cap off, but to the untrained servicer, he didn't know where the hell they were. Until later in the day, he discovered the secret.

But before I found the tabs, I was trying to pry up from underneath the cap with a putty knife, but that was too flimsy. Next, I got out my 12 inch wonderbar pry bar, but that would not pop the cap off either, because I still had not figured out the secret of the two tabs. Once I discovered the tabs, I experimented, and found that using one blade screwdriver coming in from each side of the tab, for both tabs, was the right combination. Now, the pry bar finally started to gradually lift the cap up until if came off.

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After more scrubbing and scrapping and cleaning, the spin tub bolts looked to be in very good shape.

To my surprise, I placed a 1/2 inch box end wrench on one bold head, and it moved! As did the other two bolts, and in a few minutes, the moment of truth was upon me. Would the tub come out? I pulled. Nothing. I leaned. Nothing. I jerked. Nothing. Not until I went around the entire shaft and chisel out the rust that had accumulated there, was I able to get the tub to pop off of the flange that it had been bolted to for many years.

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Now the big let-down.

The rust that I could see in the bottom of the outer tub is nothing compared to what I see next around the transmission boot and near the drain.

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