My older Miele
Along with other machines I've seen from the 1970's, 1960's and even 1980's has a pre-wash as part of the *Normal* long cottons/linens program. The cycle starts with cold and gradually heats water to warm. Once the cycle is done the machine drains and then fills for the main wash.
The "short" cycle skips the pre-wash and part of the main wash cycle for a quicker wash. Owner's manual states this cycle was good for "lightly soiled" washing.
Almost every good housekeeper learned as a girl you don't "wash in dirty water"; that is you don't do laundry especially whites/lights in water that is heavily soiled. Again this is a hold over from when laundry was bucked/pre-soaked before washing. Even today many commercial laundries run one, two or three short wash cycles instead of one long. Either way the rationale is the same; you want to keep soil that is removed from settling back onto washing.
Modern detergents do a pretty good job of keeping soils/muck suspension even without phosphates. However if you have a really truly dirty load of whites, especially one with lots of surface muck, try pre-washing it first.
In particular when using hot or boiling water to wash you don't want mucky water. With the textile fibers opened from the heat what was liberated (dirt) can also become trapped again if it settles out. This is especially true if temp is allowed to drop (soaking started with hot or boiling water then allowed to cool), or if the boiling wash water is replaced too quickly with cool or cold water.
I use a cold pre-wash before a very hot or boil wash to save energy with the Miele. This way can start the wash cycle with hot water and allow it reach hotter or boil temperatures faster and using less energy. Because the Miele has "cycle guarantee" regardless of how fast the machine reaches the proper temperature wash times remain the same. On the Oko-Lavamat it is a different story. If the machine reaches the set temperature faster than programmed it will subtract the allotted time from the balance of the cycle.
Along with other machines I've seen from the 1970's, 1960's and even 1980's has a pre-wash as part of the *Normal* long cottons/linens program. The cycle starts with cold and gradually heats water to warm. Once the cycle is done the machine drains and then fills for the main wash.
The "short" cycle skips the pre-wash and part of the main wash cycle for a quicker wash. Owner's manual states this cycle was good for "lightly soiled" washing.
Almost every good housekeeper learned as a girl you don't "wash in dirty water"; that is you don't do laundry especially whites/lights in water that is heavily soiled. Again this is a hold over from when laundry was bucked/pre-soaked before washing. Even today many commercial laundries run one, two or three short wash cycles instead of one long. Either way the rationale is the same; you want to keep soil that is removed from settling back onto washing.
Modern detergents do a pretty good job of keeping soils/muck suspension even without phosphates. However if you have a really truly dirty load of whites, especially one with lots of surface muck, try pre-washing it first.
In particular when using hot or boiling water to wash you don't want mucky water. With the textile fibers opened from the heat what was liberated (dirt) can also become trapped again if it settles out. This is especially true if temp is allowed to drop (soaking started with hot or boiling water then allowed to cool), or if the boiling wash water is replaced too quickly with cool or cold water.
I use a cold pre-wash before a very hot or boil wash to save energy with the Miele. This way can start the wash cycle with hot water and allow it reach hotter or boil temperatures faster and using less energy. Because the Miele has "cycle guarantee" regardless of how fast the machine reaches the proper temperature wash times remain the same. On the Oko-Lavamat it is a different story. If the machine reaches the set temperature faster than programmed it will subtract the allotted time from the balance of the cycle.