Rebuild of Maytag Transmission and Transplant into LAT 9800 AAW.

[beekeyknee]

Align the studs on the transmission cover with the holes in the gear housing while keeping the gasket in place and when the two halves start together turn the agitator shaft spline a little bit back and forth to make it engage the segment gear. I found this to be one of the hardest parts of re-assembling the transmission. Everything has to be in perfect alignment for the two halves to go together. You'll notice I ended up using an old chimney tile to support the transmission for reassembly and let the drive tube drop through the umbrella hole in the table. You can't put any pressure on the bottom of the drive shaft as the lugs on the washer have to remain engaged in the casting’s slots of the gear housing. The end of the drive shaft also has to remain protected so the drive lug will mate with the shaft. In my excitement to get this back together I forgot to take a picture of the gear housing after it was filled with oil. The fill is to the top edge of the gear housing.[this post was last edited: 2/8/2012-08:47]

 

[beekeyknee]

The new patient. LAT 9800 AAW.

 

[beekeyknee]

This washer has the two speed motor as opposed to the one speed on the 408. I blew the motor out with compressed air and oiled the centrifugal switch.

 

[beekeyknee]

It also has the different style water injector.

 

[beekeyknee]

Here's the new style tub bearing. Notice the inferior design?

 

[beekeyknee]

I guess the machine had an agitator shaft seal leak. It had the old style stem mount which uses the old style agitator shaft seal that doesn't go bad as often as the new integrated stem mount and seal, but water was running straight out the tub bearing and down over the transmission, as you can see the streaks on the transmission neck in this picture. By looking at the previous picture you'll notice the severe rusting on the top of the tub bearing. I suppose moisture in the area and movement of the tubs during spin got the top of the tub bearing wet and caused it to rust. During wash the water would run down over the transmission, down the drive tube, over the water deflector, through the holes in the damper and out the bottom of the machine. During spin it would fling water out inside the cabinet off of the spinning transmission. Wash was slow and spin was slow. The drive belt and pulley was glazed. When I pushed against the motor with my foot everything would speed up.

 

[beekeyknee]

The spin tube is rusted tight on the transmission neck. You can see where the spin tube has been spinning against the tub bearing by the little strip at it's top which isn't as smooth.

 

[beekeyknee]

I found some old style round motor glides. They work really well.

 

[beekeyknee]

The base prepared for painting. Old damper pads removed and laying on front of base. I used lacquer thinner to remove the old damper adhesive and damper remnants from the base and masked off the area. This paint is much stronger than anything I could put on, so I decided to clean it and mask it before painting. It will provide a stronger gluing surface for the new dampers.

 

[beekeyknee]

Painted.

 

[beekeyknee]

Working on motor carriage.

 

[beekeyknee]

Together.

 

[beekeyknee]

Poly-Lube label.

 

[beekeyknee]

Carriage back on motor.

 

[beekeyknee]

Glued damper pads on and let dry for a couple of days while I did other things.

 

[beekeyknee]

Put eye-bolts with nuts and legs back on base.

 

[beekeyknee]

Put a tablespoon of transmission oil in brake.

 

[beekeyknee]

Ready to put damper, break and springs back on. Top of brake greased and radial bearing re-inserted.

 

[beekeyknee]

I put a good coating of Poly-lube on damper pads and put base on damper upside down.

 

[beekeyknee]

Grease threads on inside of damper and screw on brake. Tighten down brake with tool. Replace brake retainer clip.