Rebuild of Maytag Transmission and Transplant into LAT 9800 AAW.

Automatic Washer - The world's coolest Washing Machines, Dryers and Dishwashers

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Replace Pitman gear and segment gear. I placed segment gear on its stud with the center of the segment in line with the drive shaft center.

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You will probably have to reposition the pitman gear to keep the segment gear in line with the center of the drive shaft before replacing Pitman arm.

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Replace the washer that holds down the Pitman gear and arm. Then replace the snap rings on the intermediate gear and the Pitman assembly.

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I turned the pinion around 180 degrees so the non-worn side would face the segment gear. This is why I was spending the time to center the segment gear. Now the non-worn side will mesh with the segment.

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Align the studs on the transmission cover with the holes in the gear housing while keeping the gasket in place and when the two halves start together turn the agitator shaft spline a little bit back and forth to make it engage the segment gear. I found this to be one of the hardest parts of re-assembling the transmission. Everything has to be in perfect alignment for the two halves to go together. You'll notice I ended up using an old chimney tile to support the transmission for reassembly and let the drive tube drop through the umbrella hole in the table. You can't put any pressure on the bottom of the drive shaft as the lugs on the washer have to remain engaged in the casting’s slots of the gear housing. The end of the drive shaft also has to remain protected so the drive lug will mate with the shaft. In my excitement to get this back together I forgot to take a picture of the gear housing after it was filled with oil. The fill is to the top edge of the gear housing.[this post was last edited: 2/8/2012-08:47]

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This washer has the two speed motor as opposed to the one speed on the 408. I blew the motor out with compressed air and oiled the centrifugal switch.

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I guess the machine had an agitator shaft seal leak. It had the old style stem mount which uses the old style agitator shaft seal that doesn't go bad as often as the new integrated stem mount and seal, but water was running straight out the tub bearing and down over the transmission, as you can see the streaks on the transmission neck in this picture. By looking at the previous picture you'll notice the severe rusting on the top of the tub bearing. I suppose moisture in the area and movement of the tubs during spin got the top of the tub bearing wet and caused it to rust. During wash the water would run down over the transmission, down the drive tube, over the water deflector, through the holes in the damper and out the bottom of the machine. During spin it would fling water out inside the cabinet off of the spinning transmission. Wash was slow and spin was slow. The drive belt and pulley was glazed. When I pushed against the motor with my foot everything would speed up.

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The spin tube is rusted tight on the transmission neck. You can see where the spin tube has been spinning against the tub bearing by the little strip at it's top which isn't as smooth.

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The base prepared for painting. Old damper pads removed and laying on front of base. I used lacquer thinner to remove the old damper adhesive and damper remnants from the base and masked off the area. This paint is much stronger than anything I could put on, so I decided to clean it and mask it before painting. It will provide a stronger gluing surface for the new dampers.

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Tub was cleaned, rust removed from damaged porcelain and JB Weld used to repair rusted areas days before. I gave the restored tub bearing a light coating of turbine oil on the outside and pushed back into the tub. I think I was able to push it in with the palm of my hand.

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